Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently purchased a 1997 s1 rs4 stagea. Car has been converted from auto to manual and is running a r34 power fc. Ran a sensor diagnostics and all ok. I have no power at the compressor or high pressure switch plug. Checked relay ok, fuse in eine bay ok. Is there anything else I should be checking? System has been pressure tested and is all ok. Gassed up and still no compressor running. Want to see if I can sort it myself before I resort to seeing an auto sparky.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454013-stagea-air-conditioning/
Share on other sites

How did you check the relay?

If you tested the relay itself while removed from the fuse box, and its functioning correctly, probe the pins on the relay harness to earth and measure the voltage. With the relay coil, one side should supply 12v power, while the other side is earthed to the ECU when the ECU wants to switch on the compressor.

The power circuit on the relay should have 12v when the key is switched on, and the other side is earthed through the compressor.

Post up the results and that should narrow it down.

Checked all the fuses behind the coin tray and they were ok except for 1 7.5amp which was second in from the right top row, however that didn't have any power at the pins (will check with multi meter tonight). As far as checking the relay, I swapped it out with a k own working one. Haven't bridged anything yet. Might rig up a fused test wire and try that.

  • Like 1

So the wire that goes to the compressor is only a earth?

Yes, one side of the relay power circuit is powered by the battery when the key is in the on position. When the relay activates, the power is earthed through the compressor and it turns on the magnetic clutch. Since that worked manually it seems that circuit is fine.

The relay coil always receives 12v when the key is in the on position, then the ECU grounds that circuits when it wants to switch the A/C relay on.

That is the other main one to check. Have a look on top of the relay for a diagram of which one is the relay coil pins. Unplug the relay and ensure that one of the relay coil pins is reading battery voltage, otherwise that circuit probably has a blown fuse (or worse). The relay coil fuse will be the one I mentioned near the drivers knee compartment.

If you do have battery voltage to one side of the coil, try manually earthing the other side of the coil (with a little jumper wire or similar while the relay is plugged in). That should also activate the relay and turn on the A/C. If that is the case then the issue is closer to the ECU.

Edited by zoomzoom
  • 2 weeks later...

It's looking like it is actually to do with the ecu side of things. Anyone know how to get a R34 gt-t ecu to control the ac in the stagea? The original ecu was apparently one of the rare one's, however I don't know how much of the loom has been changed to suit. Is there a way to get the R34 ecu to run my ac? Really like to get this working as it's 40+ every day atm.

Pin 14 and 21 on your original loom plug should be all you need to work out. Assuming everything works, when the climate control wants to turn on the A/C, it sends a signal to pin 21 (cant remember if it grounds a 12v signal from the ECU, or actually supplies 12v to the ecu). Then if the ECU thinks all parameters are normal, ie not full throttle or overheating etc, it then grounds the A/C relay, turning it on.

So you just need to find those 2 pins on the power fc pinout and connect them to the correct wires on the loom, if they are in different positions to the stock ecu.

WGC34_Series_1___STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_Pinout_translated.xls

Standard ecu according to fast is 0V310 which I have found is rare. I don't have the original ecu to confirm though.

Although every pinout I have seen so far, those wires should be in the same position. However, some suggested that the stagea uses negative switching and the r34 uses positive. How can I get around that if that is the case?

Edited by fmlycar

Ive been meaning to make something similar which would make a pull to ground switch into a 12v switch using a 2N3906 transistor, but is was for very rapid switching (a tacho)

In this case couldnt you invert the state by using a small relay? You'll need to be specific whether the AC relay, or the climate control is the affected one.

transistor.switches.pdf

  • 8 months later...

Back probed pin 14 and had no voltage. Pin 21 was 0v ac off and 12.5v approx ac on. Checking pin 14 and it switches ground from what I can tell. Checked continuity with ground on pin 14 and I applies ground when ac is switched on. So where does this leave me?

Edited by fmlycar
  • 2 weeks later...

mine stopped working as well, in the engine bay i found a random ignition source and replaced the ac relay trigger wire with that, sure the relay will always be open when the car is on, but ac will only work when u push the a/c button on climate control

I've tried bridging the ac relay in the engine bay and the compressor clicks but doesn't get cold. Suggestions? Is there another relay in the cabin near the fuses?

Edited by fmlycar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...