Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had a slight 'miss' for quite some time, only at idle and very random... have narrowed it down to coil packs or O2 sensor.

on sunday i decided it was time for a plug change and at the same time i thought could check the resistance of my coil packs to see their state of health. and see if it could be the culprit of my miss.

went down to supercheap and bought 6 plugs (NGK: BCPR6ES - 0.8mm gap) that are the exact same ones as were already in the car.

so... only took about 1 hour - took off the intake pipe that runs over the cam covers, took off the required hoses, loostened the required clamps etc.

came to the plugs... took off one coil pack at a time, checked the resistances (all ended up being the same), chagned the plugs. upon inspection the plugs were absolutely great and didn't even need a change (that's copper plugs in for 10,000kms and counting)

Put it all back together... turned the key... NOTHING!

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!

it cranked but wouldn't ignite!

checked all hoses for a massive leak - nothing

checked all the coil plugs - everything plugged in and ok

by now dad was pissed at me for "playing with your bloody car again" (hehe) but i was determined i hadn't stuffed anything. he thought that i had blown the ptu or something.

so, after a day of trying to diagnose the problem i thought stuff it, i'll just put the old plugs back in, after all they were the only thing that i had changed.

presto, car started first time!

wtf??!?!?!

what's the liklihood of getting 6 stuffed plugs? or is one completely stuffed plug good enough to not let the car even start and idle like crap?

I'm going to try and get a refund at supercheap but i can't lie as the tips of the plugs don't look new even with a clean since being exposed to fuel and the inside of my cylinders - might have to tell them the truth and risk not getting a refund.

well thought i'd share my odd and annoying experience and get some sympathy for wasting a day that i could have otherwise spent on the forum / with the missus / anywhere else really!

at least i can say that i have determined that it is most likely my O2 sensor that is causing my miss at idle.

anyone else have any odd experiences with their engine?

have good ones,

Warren.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45408-spark-plug-scare/
Share on other sites

went down to supercheap and bought 6 plugs (NGK: BCPR6ES - 0.8mm gap) that are the exact same ones as were already in the car.

what's the liklihood of getting 6 stuffed plugs?

Just because they were the ones that were in there, doesn't mean they're the right ones.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=32825

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45408-spark-plug-scare/#findComment-924819
Share on other sites

Just because they were the ones that were in there, doesn't mean they're the right ones.  

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=32825

that link is to NA engines not turbo engines (i have an rb20det)

also, i know they are the right ones as when i bought the car it had crappy old plugs that needed a change badly and i put in the BCPR6ES with great success then...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45408-spark-plug-scare/#findComment-925952
Share on other sites

OK..... go have a look at what NGK has to say on the matter.

http://www.ngk.com.au/

1991.8 - 1993.8 NISSAN SKYLINE 2000 TURBO RB20DET

Spark Plug

Part No.

Recommended Plug

PFR6A-11

Iridium Option

BCPR6EIX-11

1989.5 - 1991.8 NISSAN SKYLINE 2000 TURBO RB20DET

Spark Plug

Part No.

Recommended Plug

PFR5A-11

Iridium Option

BCPR5EIX-11

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45408-spark-plug-scare/#findComment-926239
Share on other sites

OK..... go have a look at what NGK has to say on the matter.

http://www.ngk.com.au/  

1991.8 - 1993.8 NISSAN SKYLINE 2000 TURBO RB20DET

Spark Plug                

Part No.

Recommended Plug

PFR6A-11

Iridium Option              

BCPR6EIX-11

1989.5 - 1991.8 NISSAN SKYLINE 2000 TURBO RB20DET

Spark Plug                

Part No.

Recommended Plug

PFR5A-11

Iridium Option              

BCPR5EIX-11

:)

isn't BCPR6ES-11 the exact same plug as the PFR6A-11 except copper instead of platinum...?

i think so... i chose the copper option for my own reasons

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45408-spark-plug-scare/#findComment-929026
Share on other sites

bcpr6es with 0.8mm gap are good plugs for skylines, and even the bcpr7es if you want to go for the extra heat range - the 7's seem to respond well to boost. If you are getting an idling problem definately have a look at the o2 sensor, they are $99 to replace so pretty cheap. If you take out your o2 sensor and its got a nissan emblem on it definately change it because its probably the original one and they are only good for about 40thou kms. Other thing you can try is cleaning the afm with carby cleaner and cleaning the AAC. My skyline developed a spluttering rough idle and i was told it was a vacuum leak. I took off and cleaned every pipe and refitted all the hose clamps as tight as possible without wrecking the hose clamps ( sorry i actually wrecked about 2 hose clamps....its hard to know when to back off when tightening up those bastards! )replaced the o2 sensor, cleaned AFM, reset ECU, changed plugs and cleaned AAC and now it is fine and running a hell of a lot better. The good thing is that you can check this stuff yourself and do all this stuff in an afternoon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45408-spark-plug-scare/#findComment-930994
Share on other sites

well as this has been a long-standing problem i have tried lots of stuff (most probably irrelevant to the problem, but hey i tried, right?):

- cleaning AAC valve

- cleaning AFM

- adjusting TPS

- re-grounding fuel pump

- cleaning carbon off the O2 sensor

- changing fuel filter

- reset ECU

- checked coil packs (although 'Roy' suggested this is better done when they are warm)

and for the record, the O2 sensor was an NGK one with the part number "0A08" on it...

Waz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45408-spark-plug-scare/#findComment-931070
Share on other sites

no i dont. i have ordered the data cable that plugs into the consult port and to a laptop so you can check error codes and stuff. i may get it this week. if i do ill bring it down with a laptop sure but dont like chances of getting the cable this week

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45408-spark-plug-scare/#findComment-931575
Share on other sites

I have just recieved an email, my consult cable is on the way, express post from adelaide. I should have it by Thursday tops. Will bring it down on the weekend to dyno day if anyone would like a health check up

Assuming it all works fine of course :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45408-spark-plug-scare/#findComment-932687
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...