Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Year: 1990
Make: Nissan Skyline
Model: R32 Gts-t
Kms: 152xxxkms
Rego: November 2015
Transmission: 5 spd Manual
Colour: Black
VIN: Last four digits 7918

Contact: Elliot - 0405 418 342 txt or call, if I don't answer ill ring you back when I can.

Price: $9000 ono or Swaps for a gc8 Impreza WRX, must be manual, preferably blue, mods are ok, must have rego

Modifications:

Has had an R34 RB25det NEO motor transplant which was carried out by a previous owner
Running on 6 psi boost through manual boost controller
Timing belt was replaced when motor put in
Nismo engine mounts, Solid rear cradle mounts
Custom stainless steel dump pipe and full 3" Apexi exhaust system
NPC heavy duty cushioned organic button clutch
Walbro 255L/hr fuel pump with direct power mod carried out by BlackTrack
40mm triple core alloy radiator
18in Rota Grid wheels with 75% tread on all 4 tyres
r33 gts-t 5 stud brake and hub upgrade with dba T3 4000 rotors and intima SR pads only done approx. 2000km
HEL braided brake lines front and rear
SRI adjustable rear camber arms
Hardrace adjustable front upper control arms
TEIN Mono control master coilover (height and damper adjustable)
upgraded r33 diff
r32 GTR front mount cooler with custom piping
r32 gtr bonnet and carbon fibre grill, Bonnet wrapped in carbon fibre vinyl
r32 gtr front bar (fibreglass)
power steering cooler
custom cold air intake
rear guards rolled
CD player with USB & bluetooth connectivity, front and rear splits
Car made 240hp/178kw on 6 psi safely

Other: AC and heater removed, Hicas system disconnected, has had new front wheel bearings, tierods and racks ends recently, Paint is not perfect (it is 25 years old) front bar and left front gaurd are a standard black and there are a few dents, boot is plastidipped black.

Car is used daily and has been for the last 15 months with no major issues. As far as i know the car has never seen the track although current mods have been with the track in mind.

Also included in sale will be a pair of Hardrace front adjustable castor arms ( not installed, new in box)

No finance owing
No defects on car

No joyriders or p platers will be allow to drive the car

post-77310-0-79342200-1424674860_thumb.jpg

post-77310-0-32514100-1424674890_thumb.jpg

post-77310-0-06008700-1424674923_thumb.jpg

post-77310-0-10410100-1424674951_thumb.jpg

post-77310-0-54979600-1424674971_thumb.jpg

post-77310-0-96285700-1424675000_thumb.jpg

post-77310-0-46829800-1424675026_thumb.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This isn't for lotsa powers, and time and effort isn't even a thing I'm concerned about The whole reason is "Just because fun", and "Just because fun" is what I do And whilst there are other kits, with better and more modern turbos (Rev9 use the same Kraken manifold I believe), where in Sydney can I do a drive in drive out with the after sales support that MX5 Mania give My Turbo 86 made around 200kwatw on a AVO turbo kit, and was over 100kg heavier than the MX5, but it was a blast to drive around the streets, until I crashed it.....DOOH, so somewhere around 200 ish level and some whooshy noises and I'll be happy driving to work, the shops, or heading into the country with Jackie for Devonshire tea So, thanks Dose for your info, it sounds like a 0.64 will be fine for what I'm after👍 The only real racing I do nowadays is to the toilet  
    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
×
×
  • Create New...