Jump to content
SAU Community

Lazy Oil Pump

DoseVader

By DoseVader,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

DoseVader Enthusiast

DoseVader

Posted
Posted

Hi Everyone,

I was told on my last tune that my oil pump was starting to get a bit lazy at idle, its fine when it's got some revs behind it. What are my options here, I was told to try run a thicker oil or is it worth investing in a genuine/aftermarket oil pump? What are some good oil pumps to suit an RB25DET NEO?

Current car stats: 1998 R34 GTT 300hp on 13psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454165-lazy-oil-pump/
Share on other sites
jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

Thicker oil.

What gauge were they using? I hope not the stock one.

Also it tends to be the engine worn out dripping pressure rather than the pump went out.

this and this.

but also, have you had the motor compression/leakdown tested? If the motor is too tired putting a highflow on it and upping the power a lot when the motor is potentially really tired will just result in a dead motor eventually (and poor results from the modifications).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454165-lazy-oil-pump/#findComment-7486654
Share on other sites
DoseVader Enthusiast

DoseVader

Posted
  • Author
Posted

wouldn't hurt to do a leakdown test in the future but right now for the mods the car has its making the right amount of power so I am not to concerened about the engine being really tied. My guess is I need to run a thicker oil as I gets thiner as it heats up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454165-lazy-oil-pump/#findComment-7486694
Share on other sites
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Thicker oil.

What gauge were they using? I hope not the stock one.

Its not particularly easy to replace the pump, so I would be trying thicker oil first.

100% right.

DoseV, since you dont know what oil is in there now, contact the shop that did the service to find out what they use. If that doesn't work just get an average price dino first while you're trialling viscosities to see what works. Maybe assume they used a ?w-40 and try a ?w-50 first.

Once you've settled on a viscosity that works, step up to a good full synth and go the full 5000kms change interval.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454165-lazy-oil-pump/#findComment-7487701
Share on other sites
GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

So what oil pressure readings are you getting to call low?

10PSI for every 1000 RPM is all you ever need......

If your seeing 60 PSI or over at 6000, your good for 6000RPM, over 30 PSI at 3000, and so on.

Dont trust the factory oil pressure senders, make sure its aftermarket and post your results at each 1000 RPM.

Usually its worn bearings rather than worn oil pump giving the low readings unless your pumps bypass valve is stuck open or the pumps seriously worn and damaged.

A thicker oil will mask the issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454165-lazy-oil-pump/#findComment-7487843
Share on other sites
jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

100% right.

DoseV, since you dont know what oil is in there now, contact the shop that did the service to find out what they use. If that doesn't work just get an average price dino first while you're trialling viscosities to see what works. Maybe assume they used a ?w-40 and try a ?w-50 first.

Once you've settled on a viscosity that works, step up to a good full synth and go the full 5000kms change interval.

id assume any shop would do the easiest thing and just read the manual and put in the factory rec of 30w.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454165-lazy-oil-pump/#findComment-7487975
Share on other sites
DoseVader Enthusiast

DoseVader

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm struggling to believe a tuner bothered hooking up an accurate gauge onto your engine.

Can you confirm with them how they can to the conclusion of lowish pressure?

I doubt they did as well my guess is the oil in it now is way to thin thus making the engine a bit noisy once the oil is warm at idle. But any way the car is going for a retune and full inspection in 2 weeks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454165-lazy-oil-pump/#findComment-7490769
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • PLYNX
      BCNR33/ECR33 Door corner piece replacement

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • BourneToLive
      R32 GTR Park lights issue

      By BourneToLive · Posted

      So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • Duncan
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By Duncan · Posted

      not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • Duncan
      BCNR33/ECR33 Door corner piece replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...