Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry if I'm putting this in the wrong forum. I figure this is the best place since its related to the RB30. I saw a post that linked to a Aussie speed shop that has a production engine mount kit tailored for the Datsun/Nissan S30s. Can someone point me in the right direction or repost that link on this thread?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454186-rb3026-engine-mounting-kit-for-s30/
Share on other sites

Never mind I found it with a Google search. Castlemaine Rod Shop. Any feedback regarding this kit would be appreciated. There are a couple of shops here in The US that have a similar offering but, I'd rather buy from an Aussie shop as the rb30 is not a rarity like it is in the US and speed shops obviously have more experience with it. :)

I haven't used, but have heard many good things about Castlemaine.

They are A LOT bigger then when they started out.

You don't get that big from doing crap work.

Hopefully someone will have actual experience with the kit and chime in.

I'm almost at the end of doing an RB26/30 conversion into my S30 with an R34 GTT gearbox.

I bought the Castlemaine Rod Shop gearbox mount to suit and it was complete rubbish. It was designed for a car with completely different chassis rails. We modified it and made it fit but I still wasn't happy with it. It didn't allow room for the exhaust to go through so you would end up with the exhaust basically dragging on the ground, and it used the under floor chassis rails for strength which are quite thin and flimsy on an S30. I ended up chucking it in the bin and making my own with a completely different design. I e-mailed Castlemaine Rod Shop about the issues with photos showing why it didn't fit and I received no reply. I've only heard good things about their products from other people so maybe I was just unlucky but I definitely won't be dealing with them again.

I didn't use the Castelmaine Rod Shop engine mounts because I've heard they sit the engine a fair way forward from the firewall. I wanted the engine to sit as low and as far back as possible so I got a mate to fabricate some for me.

CRS kits........they kinda work

Like their LS1 into early commodore kits that sit the motor on an angle so the output yoke on the gearbox hits the side of the trans tunnel.

Or their LS1 starter relocation kits that aren't flat, and have the bolt holes no where near the right spot.

Etc etc

I'm almost at the end of doing an RB26/30 conversion into my S30 with an R34 GTT gearbox.

I bought the Castlemaine Rod Shop gearbox mount to suit and it was complete rubbish. It was designed for a car with completely different chassis rails. We modified it and made it fit but I still wasn't happy with it. It didn't allow room for the exhaust to go through so you would end up with the exhaust basically dragging on the ground, and it used the under floor chassis rails for strength which are quite thin and flimsy on an S30. I ended up chucking it in the bin and making my own with a completely different design. I e-mailed Castlemaine Rod Shop about the issues with photos showing why it didn't fit and I received no reply. I've only heard good things about their products from other people so maybe I was just unlucky but I definitely won't be dealing with them again.

I didn't use the Castelmaine Rod Shop engine mounts because I've heard they sit the engine a fair way forward from the firewall. I wanted the engine to sit as low and as far back as possible so I got a mate to fabricate some for me.

Shane,

Thanks for the feed back. The other day I spoke to one of my friends that worked at a speed shop that has done a few RB swaps. His feedback backups what you said. He said that they went with the Mckinney's solution. His comment about Castlemaine's kit was that flat metal would not hold up well to the torque that the RB30/26 combo would be putting to the car. He also said that a modified stock transmission carrier from a Z32 or R32/33 was best suited for the S30. I will go with his recommendation since he has done several RB swaps in S30s. Oh and he said he would give me a hand with the install. Can't refuse free help!

Good help is always handy when it comes to conversions!

Happy to take a pic of my gearbox mount for you if it's any help? Mine is quite simple but I believe it will be very strong as it uses the strength in the tunnel where the original mount was located.

  • 2 weeks later...

Shane,

Thanks for the feed back. The other day I spoke to one of my friends that worked at a speed shop that has done a few RB swaps. His feedback backups what you said. He said that they went with the Mckinney's solution. His comment about Castlemaine's kit was that flat metal would not hold up well to the torque that the RB30/26 combo would be putting to the car. He also said that a modified stock transmission carrier from a Z32 or R32/33 was best suited for the S30. I will go with his recommendation since he has done several RB swaps in S30s. Oh and he said he would give me a hand with the install. Can't refuse free help!

Please update on how you go with the McKinney kit as I am planning an RB25 swap down the line for my s30. It says on their website that it should be okay for RHD vehicles as well which is why I'm leaning toward their setup. Are you using their wiring loom harness as well or getting one custom wired?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'll just reiterate that it's best to do all the wiring diagnostics, before even thinking about buying replacement solenoids ~ that is, be absolutely sure the solenoid is bad.....ie; bad connector(s), rodents chewed through a wire, etc etc. If you don't so this, you can fork out all the money for solenoids, only to find something else is wrong (this'll make you cry if you pull the valvebody only to find a broken wire is at fault... ...some more glue on the solenoid packs -- this is the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly.... ...these are all shift solenoids ~ ostensibly they're the same as the shift solenoids from the 4-speed auto.... ...this is the RE4R01A solenoid set... ...with these, you have 3 shift solenoids attached to the plate, and the separate solenoid is the EPC solenoid (line pressure control) -- with both designs, the TC lockup clutch solenoid (also PWM so they could slide the clutch shut), is located on the lower valvebody half.... ...(story time)...back in the 90's, it was a common fault that the EPC solenoid (or TC-lock solenoid) would fail, but Nissan only sold them as part of the assembly (think ~$350 at the time) ~ thing was, Isuzu also used these boxes in light commercials, and you could buy the PWM solenoid as a separate part, so it was possible to buy/use that solenoid (around $65), and make it fit (remove the circlip, fit to old plate and deal with wiring)...making it a more cost effective repair. I've not seen the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly, but with the 4-speed RE4R01A it was possible to hack/fit a single shift solenoid onto an other working set, using a donor solenoid from another set with failed EPC....(by rights the whole set should be replaced), but it ends up being a question of how much life is left in the box itself ; sometimes it's a viable repair to fix one solenoid, just to get another 100k of road miles out of it before it needs first overhaul...other times the box is that old/worn, you're as well doing first overhaul and replacing the solenoids and starting fresh... What Nissan did here with the 5-speed, was relocate the EPC solenoid to the lower valvebody (next to the TC lockup solenoid), and stuck the direct-drive clutch solenoid (for the extra gear) where the EPC solenoid used to be on the 4-speed....I can only imagine they did this for serviceability ; the PWM solenoids are most likely to fail, and it's a doddle to drop the pan and change these out (as opposed to dropping the valvebody itself to get at a top mounted EPC)... ...also keep in mind, that some BMW 3/5 series & Mazda (and maybe some Ford/Mazda rebadges, not sure), also used the RE5R01A box under a different name/part number...not saying parts availability is any better, but sometimes it helps to know this when it comes to NOS floating about in the EU.... HTH  
    • FWIW, air jacks are actually pretty light and simple to add, they are just 4 hydraulic cylinders (often at the main cage A and C pillar points) and an externally accessible airline  - they make quick work a breeze
    • Maximum Attack has entered the chat
    • That is porn and I wish I could do it easily on my streeter.
    • Yes there is a front and back insertion point on each side, each point is tubed with supports into the car and tied to the cage/ floor mount point
×
×
  • Create New...