Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before you spent too much on an RB20, consider an RB25 or RB30det, when the $$$ start flowing you only have a 2L as your base.. :yes:

Ive thought about that but the cost of legally doing that here in Japan, the price is crazy. Have to go thru special registration, cost of having it put in, wiring, and pay extra money and have it re-inspected, etc. Also my road tax will almost triple.

The shop I spoke with about tuning the car once I decide what to do, suggested a 2.4 litre kit with a rb26 crank.

So I might just go 320-350 hp, and see how that is. If I want more than I will research more and maybe do the 2.4 litre kit.

Also I wasn't planning to buy a larger throttle body. I see them often over here on the car parts sites for the rb engines so I was wondering if anyone actually changed theirs.

Edited by yoshiii335

We've already lost that argument with him. Apparently, this one time, at band camp.....I mean, in Japan, it's too expensive to use a 25.

Oy, as I said in the other post, if you dont have anything positive to say, please exit the stage.

I definitaly wouldn't stroke the 20.

Go 25 or just enjoy what the 20 will give you after some mods.

Stroking it will cost a lot, get less power and response than a 25, still have a weaker gearbox etc...

Definitely a no-no.

I definitaly wouldn't stroke the 20.

Go 25 or just enjoy what the 20 will give you after some mods.

Stroking it will cost a lot, get less power and response than a 25, still have a weaker gearbox etc...

Definitely a no-no.

I definitaly wouldn't stroke the 20.

Go 25 or just enjoy what the 20 will give you after some mods.

Stroking it will cost a lot, get less power and response than a 25, still have a weaker gearbox etc...

Definitely a no-no.

Ok, I wasn't sold on the idea.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For the record, I hate the colour. Even if I'll never see it again, I know its in there.
    • This is another issue I'm fixing. This little valve stops all the oil from draining to the sump when the engine is turned off. What happens eventually is that the engine is a little noisy and has the oil pressure light on for a few seconds after turning it on. Basically it takes a few seconds to build the pressure when all the oil has drained. This valve is a non serviceable part and is attached to the oil filter housing, BMW suggests to replace the entire housing if this valve fails.  As it turns out this valve can be removed and that means you can get an aftermarket replacement, which I did. The failure, for me at least is that the valve doesn't seat properly after a while, which I've demonstrated. The new one is a ball end and always seats properly. 
    • Welp don't know if this is good but I can hear a sizzling sound in my battery Hope I didn't fry it. Turns out a bad battery in the multi meter will give a false reading (likely what happened when I said I had 15x volts), swapped the battery and monitoring now. I'm hoping that sizzling sound is just the equlisation charging
    • Yeah I'm happy to talk to whoever, I don't want to take ownership or even manage it if they don't want but I can probably help with hosting on the sau setup. It's a great resource and should be protected.
    • So, got some bits..   New oil filter housing gasket (main problem I'm trying to fix -see leak above)  While you're in there's: New belts, pulley and tensioners.  Vanos oil line New oil drain valve New water pump and pulley  New fumoto valve (all my cars have these). Some of this stuff seems ok now that I've pulled it out but I still have no idea how old it all is.  The belts looked fine and then I noticed this. Like somebody has hooked it with a pick. 
×
×
  • Create New...