Jump to content
SAU Community

Strange Deep Sound When Coming On Boost

SargeRX8

By SargeRX8,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

Have no idea whats going on. I was suspect of a boost leak so loaded up my intake with a small amount of pressure and had a leak between the BOV and mounting plate. Problem seems to still be there. I've uploaded a video to youtube. You must use headphones as the sound is low frequency and barely audible but you will hear it as soon as boost ramps up. The sounds frequency changes, it starts off high(still very low) and gets lower.

Anybody able to confirm this is a boost leak based off the sound? It is not a mechanical sound. You can hear it at exactly one second.

Edited by SargeRX8
RBrennan25 Grand Master

RBrennan25

Posted
Posted

Mine has the same problem, it's fairly normal (but still annoying). Not sure if this is true but I've been told that the standard nissan BOV's have been to designed to leak very slightly at idle to idle smoother (could use confirmation either way here) and therefore coming onto boost, where there is a small pressure on one side, it's enough to just force the spring open a little, but on WOT the other side of the spring is pushed down as well keeping it closed.

I'll see if I can find where I got that info from :)

EDIT: can confirm its normal for GTR BOV's to leak at idle and very light cruise. As suggested above, if you're concerned search for GTR BOV fart, but I wouldn't stress, just use more WOT ;)

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It's the exact same noise mine made with GTR BOV on it. It's kinda funny. You can play with it. You end up using more fuel from the constant on-off throttle action.

I took the GTR BOV off mine after a while because I thought it dulled the boost transition compared to the RB25 BOV. That was at stock boost though, without any gate control. I've been meaning to put it back on for a while to see if I can feel the difference again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nope, but they are definitely one of the default choices. Well established.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Has anyone used > https://performancecoating.com.au/  
    • Ozdavroz
      R32 owner from ACT

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Haha actually I did join back then under a different email address,  I couldn't re-activate my account so made a new one! I didn't post much anyway so not missing out on much. Amazing to see how the value of the cars and parts has changed over the years, also ACT section appears to be dead now. 
    • Ozdavroz
      R32 owner from ACT

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Thanks... It's in pretty good condition overall, probably due to not being drifted/tuned however being a daily driver has taken its toll. Had 100k on the clock when I got it, up to 180k now. Unfortunately it's not 100% dent free, it's got a small dent on FLH side and broken indicator from where I hit a small kangaroo at high speed. If you look at closely at pic #5 you might spot the dodgy trailer light repair my old man and I rigged up as temporary repair! - It's still there due to a combo of needing the car as daily driver and then too lazy/busy to fix properly. I've a couple of other minor accidents accidents as well but nothing major. One required a new front bar and unfortunately the smash repairer ordered the normal gtst one and not the aero bar. Needed the car back asap so just went with it, regretted ever since.
    • GTSBoy
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I can't believe that anyone is foolish enough to believe that the base maps are for any other purpose than to drive the car up onto the trailer/truck or gently creep it to the dyno. No matter how good they are, they can never be any better than the factory maps**, and only the foolish trust those on a significantly modified setup. **Yeah, yeah. I know there's also the difference between factory maps being fixed to certain injector sizes and MAP/AFM/VE relationships, and the likely aftermarket ECU base maps being better able to handle the sorts of changes that would render a stock ECU dangerous, like different sized injectors. But let's just ignore that for the moment, because the principle is still the same.  
×
×
  • Create New...