A Few Small Question Regarding My Upcoming Efr Build..

[Stixbnr32]

haha i used to like gate noise but then i didnt like fines and re-cert (in nz). If I was in burnout comp and had pipes i could un-plum i agree they sound the biz.

but they have no biz on the road. kids think they are cool.

[GTR_JOEY]

Gate noise just means your not throwing all the boost you can into the engine.. And that makes you a pussy

[boostn0199]

  On 04/03/2015 at 12:26 AM, Mick_o said:

Lol so an RB or 2J sound like shit or camrys without gate? You must be deaf from all that gayte brah?

As Joey said whats wrong with some nice induction noise & a nice rumbling RB noise?

Maybe you're driving the wrong car

Just lacks that finishing touch of aggression in the car to me. Im driving the right cars lol got my rb turbo and my charged ls3 both nice and loud ?

[cobrAA]

  On 04/03/2015 at 12:12 AM, GTR_JOEY said:

I have to agree with Mico.. External gates make the car sound shit.. The gate is generally so loud that the turbo spool can't even be heard.

I have both my gates plumbed in and the car makes plenty of power and response, is legal and still sounds like a screaming jet

This solve an issues. I'm confident with my choice regarding the plumb back then !

[cobrAA]

  On 04/03/2015 at 12:22 AM, Piggaz said:

Every muffler robs 100 whp? I find that VERY hard to believe.

me too.. all my muffler are bought.. but i could always substitute one muffler for a straight resonator, since they are smaller, they might restrict less.

None the less, I'M pretty sure my 3.5/4 inch exhaust could cope with a 650-700whp build especially considering a 3 inch line has been seen a lot of time on 600whp build.

[GTSBoy]

What the mech said about "every muffler costing 100HP of flow" doesn't necessarily mean that it will cost you an actual 100HP. It's an overstatement anyway, so ignore the actual number. But the real meaning is that every muffler added takes 100HP off the max capacity of that system. If you're only using 75% of that capacity anyway, then that muffler will only cost around 75 HP.

[cobrAA]

2) As for the oil issue. I decided to go with the tomei pump ( and sell both my N1 used pump and used oem with reimax gearset).

I know the greddy extended pan is not a popular choice here, but i personally know 4 local GTRer who drove with that and no drama happened both in term of oil issue and cracked pan so I will go with the easiest solution. ( i.e: Racefab is approx. 1200-1400 and will be tight to meet my ETA , while the greddy is easy to get and cost 400$) and racefab is also 15mm

3) i went with 1000cc bosh ev14. better be safe. price is difference is quite minimal

4) I will plumb back.. exhaust setup seems okay.

5) Now for the ATTKD / Hi-octane / Autech air/oil separator, they will come up at 300$ and most people tell me i should still run this setup in parallel with a catch-can.. makes me wonder if these can are really worth the 300$ or they do very little.. ( keep in mind, i also have mine's cam baffle)

thought on this !?

Edited March 4, 2015 by cobrAA

[Piggaz]

Are you going to be putting an aftermarket front diff in this thing? If you haven't planned on if, I suggest you look into it.

[KiwiRS4T]

I found the catch can alone ( in conjunction with the sump to catch can lines) ok ...I like the idea of an air/oil separator to catch any fumes that get past the catch can before they are fed into the turbo intake but with a properly baffled catch can you "should" be ok.

[cobrAA]

  On 04/03/2015 at 5:33 PM, Piggaz said:

Are you going to be putting an aftermarket front diff in this thing? If you haven't planned on if, I suggest you look into it.

new nismo gt and in the rear i got a stellar deal on an ats metal 1.5

[cobrAA]

Regarding the trust sump... RIPS offer a pre-weld kit.. looks like a better option lol

Yes I do a pre-welded kit that you then weld into your sump, they are nzd695 + shipping.

The sit only about 5-10mm lower than stock (doesn’t go below the x-member) but are a lot wider, they have a surge tank and baffles and hold an extra 1.5 to 2 liters. We use them on all our high power wet sump motors.

[Stixbnr32]

Go for the rips one.

they will be very good.

[XRATED]

... I'd be more worried about the standard gearbox.

[XRATED]

Tomei pump-

Oil restricter-

Mines baffes and vented 2-4lt catch can

Walbro 460 in tank pump

BCPR7ES- .8 plugs

Plumb back the waste gate... properly

Exhaust is a hard one... bigger you go, louder it is... quieter, more restrictive. 400+ rwkw- 3.5" minimum or 4" with as many good quality mufflers as you can get under it.

Simples...

[GTR_JOEY]

  On 05/03/2015 at 5:24 AM, XRATED said:

Tomei pump-

Oil restricter-

Mines baffes and vented 2-4lt catch can

Walbro 460 in tank pump

BCPR7ES- .8 plugs

Plumb back the waste gate... properly

Exhaust is a hard one... bigger you go, louder it is... quieter, more restrictive. 400+ rwkw- 3.5" minimum or 4" with as many good quality mufflers as you can get under it.

Simples...

To add to that.

Have a breather from your sump to catch can to get rid of excess crank case pressure

4inch exhaust inc the cat, 3.5 after wards I would suggest

[cobrAA]

  On 05/03/2015 at 6:41 AM, GTR_JOEY said:

To add to that.

Have a breather from your sump to catch can to get rid of excess crank case pressure

4inch exhaust inc the cat, 3.5 after wards I would suggest

yup this is what i wanted to do but like my mechanic pointed out, the efr 83/74 exit at 3.5inch so he said theres no real advantage beside pricier and bulkier to fit a 4 inch downpipe. Then I told him it was for the plumb back and said well... yeah okay we could but i would stay 3.5inch all the way still.

[cobrAA]

  On 05/03/2015 at 5:06 AM, XRATED said:

... I'd be more worried about the standard gearbox.

I'M opening it, shot peening and cryo the gearset /input shaft + new synchro set that will be touched as well.

[XRATED]

  On 05/03/2015 at 12:41 PM, cobrAA said:

I'M opening it, shot peening and cryo the gearset /input shaft + new synchro set that will be touched as well.

In all honesty, I hope it hangs together for you... but once you start staring up the skirt of 400+rwkw, 3rd gear just packs up and goes home.

I look at GTR's as either as responsive as possible low mount 380rwkw or balls out torque and lag top mount 450+rwkw with a gearbox and front lsd...

Cheers

J.

[cobrAA]

I'm kind with my gear. I've been on a -5s setup for the last 3 season and it still shift relatively smooth, never needed to add some shockproof redline stuff.. and I sincerely hope that my EFR won't be laggy

[XRATED]

a 400+rwkw turbo on an rb26.... to my definition, it will be laggy (-5's are bad enough). If set up correctly, it will be one of the better lag v's power turbo's... but laggy compared to a well set up low mount (N1, GTSS, -7, t517z) rb26.

Being easy on the gearbox will go along way to helping it survive, but 3rd gear just strips.... it just does.

I had a brand new replacement gearbox in my GTR, low mount's and the 3 or 4th pass down the strip 3rd gear just disappeared. I was even granny shifting (not double clutching like I should).

Again, I hope it all goes well for you. I hope you get your oiling system sorted out.... but start saving for a couple of gearboxes or a gear set.