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S A U - N S W Autumn Tech Event Saturday 2nd May 10am

DekA

By DekA,
in Events Archive

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MrStabby
MrStabby

Notes! Please post any corrections/additions. (FWIW I was the guy in the Exodus T shirt, Black 32 GTR with R34 wheels). Clutches with solid centers should not be used as they put a lot more strain on

Calsonic14U
Calsonic14U

Scored 2 free HALTECH jumpers at the last tech night, will see what the wife and i can swipe this time hahahaha

XKLABA
XKLABA

Mine !!! My race just got cancelled due to weather so I get to do this

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

Hey Nick I need you to make a miraculous recovery and attend so I can ask you a stack of Stagea questions now that I have also joined the Stagea fraternity.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
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41 or 40, who's counting? Just get well Nick after a good night's sleep friend. I have to leave an hour early anyway.

Looking forward to tomorrow thanks Matt and you Execs!

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GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

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I can't thank Terry and Trish enough. I'm confident to refer people on to them.

It's still wonderful at my age to keep on learning.

Tis great to reacquaint with fellow Members but also meet Jaeyon and Brad.

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Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted

Thanks for Terry & Trish + the exec team for a good event, the food was good too which was a nice surprise! It's easy to see why Award is so highly recommended.

In true SAU 2015 event fashion it rained once again :)

I had to run off just after lunch to get to the tyre shop in time because of this bugger I picked up last night.

20150502_124513%20594x800_zps39ytsofy.jp

$360 later :teehee:

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Damn wish I could have state round a bit longer, but a great tech day was had for sure. Terry and Trish are stacked full of great unbiased info based on what is seen, not what he's trying to sell.

Great lunch, fantastic turn out of members cars.

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Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted

Does that mean they couldn't repair it and had to replace it?

Loved your zed, couldn't help but have a peak as I walked past

I have a puncture repair kit for emergencies but I'd rather just change out the tyre for peace of mind. Blowouts on a bike are not fun

The price was for both front & rear tyres fitted.

Cheers! Wish I could've stayed longer & socialised a bit more but oh well, always next time

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MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Notes! Please post any corrections/additions. (FWIW I was the guy in the Exodus T shirt, Black 32 GTR with R34 wheels).

Clutches with solid centers should not be used as they put a lot more strain on the gearbox. He reinforced this point many times, seems to be a common issue. Of course there are full race corner cases where they make sense, but you'll know why you're getting one if you're in that situation.

Likewise clutch plates should have a marcel spring (which is between the friction material pads, so the clutch plate is a pad/marcel spring/pad sandwich)

You have to run a clutch in. If you don't, they can melt onto the flywheel, which means it wont disengage.

Terry will happily make mantle pieces out of stuff you break spectacularly :)

Other than solid center clutches, the other thing that stuffs gearboxes is user brutality.

Solid mounting of diff cradles also increases rigidity in a way that's detrimental (for the gearbox? or drive train more generally?), so make especially sure you use a sprung center clutch if you have a solidly mounted diff cradle.

Clutches dissipate heat and get hot

When you install a new clutch, which should come with lubricant. Make sure you lube; clutch pivot/fork, fork/throw out bearing, input shaft splines. If you didn't get lube use never seize black moly disulphide. Use oil, not grease, for the standard bronze spigot bearing. If you have a needle roller spigot use HTB grease.

Showed an input shaft that had its splines severely damaged by a solid center clutch in 6 months.

No clutch pedal should be heavy these days, due to new materials, spring pivot points, and if required, changing diameter of the hydraulic cylinders.

Mineral oils are better than synthetics in situations where you want friction (sychros, LSDs). Change gearbox oils regularly, say every year. Some of the oil will evaporate and escape out the breather, so connect a gearbox catch can that drains back down the breather. (was this in the context of smurfs blood or more generally?).

If your multi-plate clutch doesn't rattle, then it doesn't have its clearance set correctly

EDIT: Also;

- LOCTITE 20166 Flange Sealant highly recommended for sump gaskets etc. Also known as Loctite 5900. 20166 is the part number. Available from Repco.

- If you want an extended sump mod for your GTR use Leon from Performance Metalcraft.

- Both R32 and R33 attessas have no preload. You can test this for yourself by just using your hand to spin the front drive shaft. He recommends you remove the drive shaft on R32s as well as R33s when using a 2WD dyno. Just removing the fuse in a 32 will stop drive to the front wheels but wont stop wear on the attessa plates

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GTofuS-T Grand Master

GTofuS-T

Posted
Posted

Good notes Adam!

Definitely one of the biggest themes of the day was how the driveline is designed with shock absorbing capability, and changing this with stiffer components can lead to damage if the whole system isn't appropriately matched.

Needless to say driving style also plays a big part.

Very informative day.

Thanks again to Award's Terry & Trish, Matt (Deka) and the rest of the SAU:NSW Exec team for putting on a great Tech day, which was also very sociable.

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