Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So noticed last week when going to get fuel the speedo wasn't moving. Checked the Power FC to get the reading. It also read 0. I noticed on the way home though that both Speedo and Power FC now were displaying correct speeds.

Took it to the mechanics for a few other maintenance items and yet again speedo stopped working. Assumed from here it was the speed sender behind the gearbox. Just had a replacement installed at mechanics and no dice. Mechanic traced the wire all the way to the loom and no splits in the wire.

So what options can there be to look at or anyone else experienced similar, and best profession to look into it ie. Auto elec?

Details if required

R33 GTR

Nismo Dash

Power FC D-Jetro

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454492-speed-reading-intermitently-working/
Share on other sites

Dirty connection somewhere is my bet. Keep in mind that the speedo signal goes to the speedo before the ECU so if it is cut pre speedo, neither will work

I would check your connections from the gearbox loom and clean them if needed.

I have an R33 wiring schematic but it might not be relevant to the r34

It's R33 mate.. Interesting. I was under the assumption it went to ECU first. Would be interested in the schematic. Auto elec might be the first port of call then. Try track down where the fault starts

Sorry, was on mobile and could only see your name there, so figured R34.

I can have a look at the wiring diagram tomorrow morning and give you some info if you want. Because its not happening all the time, and when it does work the speed reads right (correct?) I'm assuming its a dirty/loose connection somewhere along the line or perhaps the early stages of a rub through/short.

If you have a multimeter, I'll give you some places to start. Probably re-do what the mechanic did but its best to know for yourself

Yeah Callan I assume speeds were correct. They seemed to be the speeds I thought I was going. It stopped working. Then on way home worked. Worked all the way to mechanics. Stopped working while at the mechanics. Replaced speed sensor. Still no go

Cheers Brad. Will have to just start crossing off the list I guess. Is there a way to ensure the replacement speed sensor is indeed working correctly?

The speed sensor would probably be ok when replaced. Next step would be to see if you get 0-5v at the ecu at pin 53. Then at least you know the signal is or isnt getting to the ecu.

O.K I have had issues in this area before with my reverse lights. They worked intermittently (funnily enough) and I bought a new reverse switch but discovered the problem before I put the new switch in. Reverse lights would flicker on and off etc

I've circled the speed sensor plug (top of drawing circled in black) and the plug I had problems with (was just dirty, cleaned it up, checked connections were good)

Speed%20Sensor%201_zps4tabhxa6.jpg

And in the next one it shows the same thing but in a wiring schematic, just so its easier to work out which wire is which. Its pretty easy looking at the plug to work out which wires are which. Just hold the plug and look at it in relation to which side of the plug on the drawing. If you need a hand I can help anyway. Ive marked around the plugs and put dots where the wires for the speed sensor are

Speed%20Sensor%202_zpsdw7my6wi.jpg

Just found this as well, shows the speed sensor drawing as well

SpeedSensor_zpsdcee4377.jpg

Edited by 89CAL
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

OK, Bt of an update. Auto elec mechanic found a crack in the PCB and that has been fixed. All electrics checked apparently.. But still no speed. They can spin it manually and the speed goes up but no reading from car

Is it possible to get different speed sensors? He asked if I got an auto or manual sensor for replacement. Rang mechanic and said the only thing that was different was the gear on the end but he swapped them over so it has my original gear in it..

I'm going back to mechanic tomorrow to put original speed sensor back in just incase but any thoughts?

  • 2 weeks later...

Bought a new cluster and I get the same problem. Wires have all been checked by auto electric mech.. but I cant say 100% as im just relying on what they say.

Now the speed sensor that was bought had a different cog on it. And seems it is also in a different position. So there is more than one speed sensor type for a 33gtr?

Wreckers only had that one speed sensor so what is the best way to aquire the correct speed sensor as i feel this is still my issue?

Alternatively. Is there a way to change the location of the shaft on the sensor? The replacement i got is offset the wrong way to fit a bigger cog. Is it possible to reposition it?

  • 2 weeks later...

In some cars any ferrous metal debris floating around in the Trans can effect the induction pick-up and thus the speedo actually working

based on your latest discription it would seem there is no voltage supply to the induction sensor, remember these are essentially a Variable DC Square or Sine wave generator BUT will not work if there is no DC supply to the Sensor AND it the sensor is not adjusted correctly (this varies from 5-10 Thou to as much as 30 thou depending on the sensor and gearbox)

Have you checked that the fusible links are in good order? I have seen them mess with instrument gauges.

And by this I mean that they are making good solid contact and there is no corrosion, not just that they are not broken.

Edited by sonicz

In some cars any ferrous metal debris floating around in the Trans can effect the induction pick-up and thus the speedo actually working

based on your latest discription it would seem there is no voltage supply to the induction sensor, remember these are essentially a Variable DC Square or Sine wave generator BUT will not work if there is no DC supply to the Sensor AND it the sensor is not adjusted correctly (this varies from 5-10 Thou to as much as 30 thou depending on the sensor and gearbox)

This is true with non contact sensors, but I believe because the R33 use a driven speedo sensor it is not an issue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
    • But I think you missed mine.. there is also nothing about the 98 spec that supports your claim..  according to the fuel standards, it can be identical to 95, just very slightly higher octane number. But the ulp vs pulp fuel regulations go show 95 (or 98), is not just 91 with some additives. any claim of ‘refined by the better refineries’ or ‘higher quality fuel’ is just hearsay.  I have never seen anything to back up such claims other than ‘my mate used to work for a fuel station’, or ‘drove a fuel delivery truck’, or ‘my mechanic says’.. the actual energy densities do slightly vary between the 3 grades of fuel, but the difference is very minor. That said, I am very happy to be proven wrong if anyone has some hard evidence..
×
×
  • Create New...