Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After a bit of farting around it seems the sensor is dodgy.. And thanks also to the efforts of Andrew from Kudos Motorsport I'm certain the wreckers I got the sensor from supplied an r33 gtst sensor and mistaken it for a GTR sensor. Have a new sensor on order and should hopefully fix the problem

We have checked all wires right up to the cluster and it all seems in order. Tapping the speed sensor while its in gear the reading seems accurate, and best of all constant.. So something seems dodgy inside the sensor itself. Bit of a f**k around which could have been avoided if i had the right sensor but such is life

Thanks everyone for the help. Will inform you if the problem is resolved when sensor arrives

  • 1 year later...

Any luck solving the problem?

 

ive got a very similar issue. Nismo white dials. Speedo dial just randomly decides when it wants to work or not. 

Dials were converted from kmh to mph in 2005. Can't see any obvious wiring on the back to change the signal other than the aerial switch which seems to be wired into the loom going onto the back of the speedo connector. 

Was it the sensor on the gearbox? I might try a new one of them

IMG_4050.JPG

On ‎07‎/‎03‎/‎2015 at 2:12 AM, 89CAL said:

O.K I have had issues in this area before with my reverse lights. They worked intermittently (funnily enough) and I bought a new reverse switch but discovered the problem before I put the new switch in. Reverse lights would flicker on and off etc

I've circled the speed sensor plug (top of drawing circled in black) and the plug I had problems with (was just dirty, cleaned it up, checked connections were good)

Speed%20Sensor%201_zps4tabhxa6.jpg

And in the next one it shows the same thing but in a wiring schematic, just so its easier to work out which wire is which. Its pretty easy looking at the plug to work out which wires are which. Just hold the plug and look at it in relation to which side of the plug on the drawing. If you need a hand I can help anyway. Ive marked around the plugs and put dots where the wires for the speed sensor are

Speed%20Sensor%202_zpsdw7my6wi.jpg

Just found this as well, shows the speed sensor drawing as well

SpeedSensor_zpsdcee4377.jpg

yes 89 Cal!

That top diagram is brilliant.  I just disconnected a connector that you circled at the bottom next to the relay housing this morning before work - it was absolutely full of white gunk.  solvent sprayed it a load and my clocks worked perfectly on the way to work. I'll give the plug a really good clean up later on.

I took the clocks out last night and got the speedo off, then resoldered the four connections between the motor and the circuit board by just dabbing the soldering iron onto it.  I don't reckon this is the smoking gun though - I think it is the connector that you circled.

If anyone has a speedo that's really intermittent then check the connector between the screen wash fluid and the box full of relays (front left of engine bay).  Give it a thorough clean.

Cheers

onto the next problem... high idle and damp headlights!

Edited by CraigoGTR33
typo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...