Advice Prior To Final Build - Knowledagble Builders Please

[HarrisRacing]

Greetings,

I'm nearing the final commencement of my engine / R32 GT-R build here in the states and wanted to start a general "help me avoid trouble" prior to putting this thing together.

I bought the car with a rod knock, when ended up being a bad crank, which turned into finding the small water-jacket-to-head-stud-hole cracks on the exhaust side (5 of them!), so here's where I am at today.

Bottom end:

New N1 block (standard bores)

Brian Crower 79mm rotating assembly

CP 8:1 86.00mm stroker pistons (came with stroker kit)

Fluidampr harmonic balancer

Tomei Oil pump

HKS timing belt

All new tensioners and pulleys

Greddy TRUST oil sump extension

Exedy hyper Single VF clutch and flywheel kit (OK this was one of my first purchases, when I was just going relatively mild rebuild!). WHAT CAN THIS HANDLE? looks like only 500nm to me! http://www.exedy-racing.com/racing/en/pro/hy_single_vf.html

http://www.exedy-racing.com/racing/en/pro/selectionguide.html

Cylinder head:

Ported stage 2 cylinder head by RAWBrokerage (still waiting on this, shoudln't be much longer).

BC phosphor-bronze valve guides (all)

BC +0.5mm SS valves (do not need to work seats for these like you do the +1mm)

BC locks

BC Ti retainers and single spring kit

Tomei Poncams A (again ordered when things were going to be more stock-rebuild)

Rear head drain fitting

Mine's triple baffle cam covers

Turbo / Other:

GT2860 -5's

Ported dumps, matched and mildly ported manifolds.

Will build custom intakes to remove AFM's

850cc injectors

300 lph pump

Haltech Platinum

New Koyo Radiator

Braided oil feed and drain lines for turbos

New CV boots (all)

Whiteline HICAS elimiators

New steering / balljoints (all)

Remaining TO DO and misc. Questions:

Oil cooling (HAVE NOT PRUCHASED YET - affordable recommendations or U-build-it kits?)

Transmission? What breaks and when!? Should I just plan on changing clutch and purchasing R34 6speed conversion now? Is it even worth installing the clutch I have?)

Block Grouting? I assume this is only for SERIOUS builds, but does it help with cooling on road course? I don't see this car going more than 700 BHP ever, more of a response / track day car (on occasion).

Intake manifold? Suggestions / Requirements?

I may put a mid-sized single on later, but if this setup will give me 500 whp on pumpgas I'm probably not going to bother with any more HP. I do not plan to drag race the car, but It will see some trackdays.

Any and all advice is much appreciated. I honestly would rather someone jump in now with "Don't do xxxx!" than have to re-do or re-install anything later.

Patrick (in USA!).

Edited March 7, 2015 by HarrisRacing

[HarrisRacing]

Forgot to add

Full BC gasket sets

ARP head studs, main studs, FW bolts

I'm sure I'll remember more when I get back to the shop and look at the obligatory fast-n-furious spread of parts.

[GTSBoy]

I don't have time to talk about quite a few of the points above, and lack the specific knowledge to deal with many of them anyway. But, a couple of points that struck me....

Be prepared for timing jitter when you're trying to tune it, and therefore be prepared to have to buy a crank trigger setup to replace the CAS. The Haltech is a very fast ECU and can read all the bullshit that OEM CAS spits out.

Grouting is not for cooling. It is for strength at the expense of cooling. A <1/2 fill shouldn't massively -vely affect cooling, but it certainly won't help it.

Oil cooling is a bloody good idea. Anything is better than nothing. But I won't point you to any kits, I'll let others do that.

[r32-25t]

Why are you dropping the compression ratio in it? Should be trying to raise it, makes for a nicer car to drive off boost and brings it onto boost faster

[HarrisRacing]

My apologies...8.5:1

[infamous_t]

Do you have access to e85?

Fuel can change a few factors.

[KiwiRS4T]

Compression ratio of better than 9:1 would be preferable. Forget about the oil "drain" at the back of the head and find the oil control thread on this site and read say the last 10 pages.

[HarrisRacing]

Thanks for the advice on the oil control thread.

Started making a lot of sense to me about vapor flows and separation. I'm going to add some ports to the oil pan and engineer a catch can setup and drain system as well.

I forgot to add I have the tomei oil restrictor as well.

E85 is available about an hour away from me, but I'm not planning on relying on it.

Pistons are done so 8.5:1 is going to stick. We'll see what boost she'll take on that.

[HarrisRacing]

Thanks for the advice on the oil control thread.

Started making a lot of sense to me about vapor flows and separation. I'm going to add some ports to the oil pan and engineer a catch can setup and drain system as well.

I forgot to add I have the tomei oil restrictor as well.

E85 is available about an hour away from me, but I'm not planning on relying on it.

Pistons are done so 8.5:1 is going to stick. We'll see what boost she'll take on that.

[GTR_JOEY]

As stated above no need for the rear head oil drain, though in saying that its a good idea to put sump breather in to your catch can so the crank case doesn't build pressure.

Another idea that some like to adopt.. (My self and HKS included) is a water drain in the rear welsh plug of the head. Plumb it into your top radiator hose housing and it helps regulate temps at the back of the engine.

This is mine