Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Have a few questions as I've been burning through a clutch every 2-3 months..
Decided to go with the best, the super coppermix..
My car is running 260rwkw atm and was wondering if its okay to go for twin plate?
Will it do damage to my standard rb25det gearbox?
Or should I go the single plate?

What are my options?

thanx

Hi mate, rather than looking for a different clutch, you need to work out why you are "burning through" them if they only last a month or 3.

How do they fail? How are you treating them?

Is there a chance the installer f**ked it up? I got it done at a reputable race mechanic
I've had all premium clutches and they don't last very long..
I do clutch kick it on the street a fair bit.. But I don't think i thrash it enough to only last 2-3 months..
I've had all exedy HD Clutches, ORC clutches, and currently an NPC organic (meant to hold 350rwkw) (lasted the longest 3 months)
the NPC has just started slipping.. NPC Was the best so far..

I wanna go the best of the best now.. (Nismo coppermix)
See how long that'll last me..

Is it ok to go twin plate? Or should i go single?

Thanks for the advice

I've also converted PULL to push with my clutch..

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-super-coppermix-single-plate-clutch-high-power-spec-sr-rb.html

^^
Will this clutch fit my car?
I have an r34 gtt converted to push type

AFAIK the NPC 250mm organic is only good for 300kw. Its suited to driving in traffic, not for getting smashed doing drag launches. Exedy HD are similar style of clutch. The coppermix single in that link looks to be a similar thing to the NPC organic.

What is the car used for? Did you tell NPC what you'd be using the car for?

Is there a chance the installer f**ked it up? I got it done at a reputable race mechanic

I've had all premium clutches and they don't last very long..

I do clutch kick it on the street a fair bit.. But I don't think i thrash it enough to only last 2-3 months..

I've had all exedy HD Clutches, ORC clutches, and currently an NPC organic (meant to hold 350rwkw) (lasted the longest 3 months)

the NPC has just started slipping.. NPC Was the best so far..

I wanna go the best of the best now.. (Nismo coppermix)

See how long that'll last me..

Is it ok to go twin plate? Or should i go single?

Thanks for the advice

There is definately something wrong if you kill a clutch in 3months considering my clutch in my drift car which basically spends all the time its being used being clutch kicked all day and I got 2 years out of my old clutch which still wasnt at the point of slipping when I changed.

Taken the car to race pace. hopefully they will sort the problem out ~
He recommended an exedy cushion button so we will go with that for now.
Does anyone know if its okay to install a nismo twin plate in my rb25 for future references?

Thanks

The most important thing for a clutch is to bed them in properly, that is drive it normally till it gets a full contact patch which takes 500-1000Km.

If you dont and start abusing it or laying power through it, expect it to start slipping and burn prematurely.

I know someone with a XR6 turbo that went through 4 clutches in 1 year, all different brands (he blamed each brand each time), the fifth one was another one of the ones he first tried but this time he actaully followed the correct bed in and its lasted years now.

The other thing is most copper and ceramic based friction materials prefer some heat to work properly, that means some heat in the flywheel before power is pushed through them.

The last point was brought up to me in a meeting with Exedy one day, they were telling me that most failures of copper and ceramic based clutches they make, come from lack of heat in the assembly before power and abuse is put though them.

Slip a ceramic button = gonna have a bad time

Constantly dump an organic = gonna have a bad time

Pick one to suit your application and a clamping level to suit your power, then ask the manufacturer how to run it in.

After doing this, if it happens with multiple clutches, the only blame rests with the installer or the driver.

I have only had my Coppermix C Spec Twin for a short time but it is so good to drive and if it holds the power as the boys have said ( I believe them) it is a great clutch and worth paying the extra $s to get it, as it will save you money in the long run..

These blokes have driven hard Klms with this clutch, most over 4000AWKW :)

  • Like 1

Excellent clutch and strong gearbox. You'll should have no issues. However with only 260rwkw you shouldn't be destroying clutches anyway. So there is something else wrong and I'd guess you either abuse the clutch (ride it) or the push/pull adapter is not fully releasing the clutch.

Does it smell when you drive it hard?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...