Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's what I was thinking they may of been for but the bloke I got it off didn't no either because when he brought it off the other fella it wasn't on there either, you can get crank scrapers of sonic fabrications for the 202 but I think they mount on the main caps instead of the sump, I might has to get one made up for a knife edge crank.

Would be hard to get one made that would follow the crank that far down.

Im guessing just a bit of right angle tin sticking out a inch OR better still, some mesh leading from the bolts to the bottom of the sumps other side to stop the oil foaming and break up the droplets......

I was thinking about running the right angle bit of tin along the side, and I found that you can fit a BA ford engine crank scraper to the main caps, looks like a good idea. What's your thoughts on this gtrpsi?would it be still worth while using this if I was using a knife edged crank?post-134876-14506524625009_thumb.jpg

Edited by Rbdirty30
  • Like 1

I recon it looks pretty good, id go with it, looks so nice there, almost like it was designed for it. :)

I ran a RB26 Windage tray on my RB30 bottom end build, i just had to drill and tap the holes into the girdle, you can see the holes in the pic below.

I also ran it with a crank scraper, but it took a bit of work to grind the right shape out while allowing 1-2mm clearance around the throws.

I got the scraper from the US but its not shaped, you need to shape it yourself.

IMG 1515

RB30 B

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 1

I better chase one up then won't be to hard finding one ,

My rb30 also has had the rb26 windage trays modified onto it aswell [emoji106]I don't reckon I'll bother with the crank scraper tho as mine won't see no track work or a real hard time, I'm getting abit over my gtr, it's taking way to long to get it finished , almost at the point of just selling it all as it is and doing the xu1.

Your crank scraper looks the goods!!

Edited by Rbdirty30
  • Like 1

Dont lose sight of the big picture with the GTR, im going through the same, ive told the family clearly, its not going to leave till after im in my coffin.

Mines been off the road for a few years now, busy with business and the son just had issues with his supercharged S2000 after a bit of brass from a sensor found its way into the intake manifold and then 2 of the 4 cylinders.

The other day i stopped at a set of lights and saw a S2000 and R32 stop next to each other, i almost lost all my shit and wanted to get home and finish all these jobs waiting......frustrations....simply not enough hours in the day.

Mines been sitting there for 2 years now [emoji20] so much $$ just sitting there and the dollars being tipped into it and the end doesn't look in sight.

That's sh*t luck mate! I no what you mean when you see a car and you instantly want to get motivated on your own car, but like you said time isn't on our side haha, one day. Bit of luck I'll have both going in the new year or atleast one [emoji106]

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...

578a27bdbc398_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit578a27e45edd8_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit

I don't weather this thread should be moved to the build section or not, but I started fixing the burnt wiring in my engine from where my carbs caught alight , it's slowly getting there, I've ordered some new wheels aswell, they should be here next week. And my new motor is coming along, I've ordered a alloy jzed head and a few other bits but that can wait for when I can put up a few more pics, plan is to have the torana ready buy October next year for the historics meeting here in Tasmania at Baskerville

So I was on gumtree and I came across an original locking fuel cap in pretty good nick and a fair price I had to have it, looks a lot nice than the original none lock twist cap 57909d5a98e9f_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit

Then today my new wheels turned up, 13x9 group c sprintmasters .57909df6c2832_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit57909e575684d_ImageUploadedBySAUCommunit

  • Like 1
On 3/21/2015 at 1:31 AM, GTRPSI said:

Get a 12-18" length of garden hose, (my parents use to crack it when they saw me hacking theirs), while engine is running start putting one end of the hose into the intake runner entry of each throttle bore and listen with your ear to the other end of the hose.

Move from port to port, making note of the diffrences in noise.

Adjust throttle stop for each one till they are all to as near as to identical as possible.

Point being any throttle thats open more or closed more will sound different, old school way of balancing the carbs throttle positions. :)

From there read plugs and adjust jets, also go back and re listen to the sounds if any need a tweak.

Back in my day vacuum gauges were hard to find and big $, i learnt that from a old time race engineer back in the late 70's who was adjusting and balancing side draughts in the pits, he was kind enough to show me when i was a teenager because i took interest in what he was doing and ive been doing them that way ever since he showed me.

My Old man did the same with his triple 1 3/4" SU's. 197RWHP on Bert Jone's (Sydney) Dyno back in the day.

On 4/11/2016 at 10:02 AM, Rbdirty30 said:

I brought a 4 speed Jerico straight cut dog box for the Orange torana on the weekend, probably doesn't need it but I wanted it haha

post-134876-14603329527289_thumb.jpg

What ratio's are in it, my old man had one in his V8 Supercar back in the late 90's and it had like a 2.1 1st and it was a dog of the start line?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...