Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a) vehicle that can beat 1000cc bikes.

b) 32GTR

c) vehicle with VR38DETT

pick one. especially if you would like the project to not drag on for more than 2 years.

Let the haters hate.... You seem keen and have done research into it.

Would be one of the firsts in a 32 gtr but it wouldn't be the last if all goes to plan.

Biggest challenge would be engine bay clearance and obviously as previously stated gear ratios etc.

You got the motivation and that's all you need . Good luck hope to see some photos soon;)

And if all else fails you've got a nice engine to stick into another car !

  • Like 1

NOW THATS THE REASON I POSTED

big thanks mate

your search skills are MUCH better than mine,

things we learnt from that video,
IT BLODDY FITS,
ITS AWD, he has slicks on the front
the is actually alot more room than i expected
now im much more confident i can make it work
IM BUYING THE ENGINE
YOU LEGEND !!!
  • Like 2

Really, where cause as far as i can see only the apron is custom, the factory strut towers and full engine bay (other then apron which makes no difference) are still in place

Frankly if you people dont have anything nice to say or constructive advice, feel free to not comment, this is the build thread not wasteland so move on

  • Like 4

the reason he has a custom radiator support is to help him fit those giant turbos, his custom inter cooler and the radiator in new locations

mick is right, the strut towers are still untouched

im running stock turbos, if they fit in the tunnel that is

as the vr38 V6 is shorter than the rb26 inline 6 in the north south direction, there will be plenty of room to run the piping

As guessed the VR38 is pretty much the same as a VQ.

Nice find on that forum thread

Kinda kicks all the nay sayers in the balls :P

This is what he had, an RB, and he wants faster, so.....VR38 can prob do that in such a light car
His fastest time of 7.4 seconds is quick as fck, maybe see if u can get in contact with him.

Edited by jay-rod

quick question boys

inittaly i will run the car on the stock gearbox till i get it running right

then the gearbox will explode, thats nearly guaranteed

which way should i go,

im thinking OS GIKEN gear set

anyone have any better ideas,

i still want a normal car, no dogbox or sequential

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...