Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys - I need some help,

Have an R33 with slightly modified rb25det - high flowed turbo, slightly bigger injectors, coil packs just basic upgrades. It's been fine for years (only done 15000kms since rebuild) but in the last 6 months it has stalled twice and when your just at say 2000rpms and you quickly take your foot off the accelerator the rpms drop to 400rpms and it almost stalls before it hesitantly picks up again.

It has stalled twice but you pull up put in in Park - (Yes it's an Auto) and it starts up fine.

It has a turbo smart blow off valve which I've cleaned and tried in soft and hard settings - makes no difference. I've changed the CAS and no change. Cleaned the AFM - it's a Z32.

Done the usual plugs, new pod, fuel filter etc.

You can rev the engine up to 2500/300rpms when stationary in the garage in neutral and lift off the accelerator and no problems. It runs smooth and I'm stumped.

Any advices greatly appreciated.

Denis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454755-r33-almost-stalls-when-backing-off/
Share on other sites

Thanks Scotty. I was hoping that someone may have had an answer or at least a few possibilities...... A mate had a few issues and spent $800 on a dyno only to be told that they couldn't find an issue with his car; so maybe I'm not yet ready to throw $800 or more out the window. Just yet anyway

Have you vacuum leak checked it? doesn't take much to make them want to stall. The highflow turbo might have found some weak spots like the plenum gasket, mine did, the top half is actually warped..

  • Like 1

Tuning issues are best asked on the Nistune forums. Here is a document put together regarding MAF tuning

http://nistune.com/docs/Nistune%20MAF%20Tech%20Notes.pdf

Basically when you come off throttle you may get a spike of reverse airflow through the AFM. Z32 MAFs are common for this since the wire can measure airflow both directions.

The reverse airflow can result in overfueling and then compensated with underfueling and lean off. You can see this in the software if you log the MAF voltage, TP (load), injection time and resulting AFRs. You will probably see a spike then dip in everything

Make sure the plumbed back BOV return hose is pointing towards the turbo and away from the AFM

On the tuning side the TP (load) max table pegs airflow on accel/decel. The tuner can reduce this (not too far so it reduces load readings on accel) but enough to cap spikes on decel)

Using the slot style sensors (R35 and HPX resolve this issue further by improved MAF design and dispesing airflow outside the sides of the sensor resulting in more table meausre of airflow and can be put in various sized tubing)

Edited by darkhalf

Kind thanks for the reply Matt. I'm retired and enjoy just driving my R33. I'm just stumped that this drop in rpms when I slow down/decelerate quickly from only 60kph causes the revs to very quickly drop to 1000 revs and sometimes down to 400rpms before it picks up. There have been a number of times when it simply stops. No changes have been made to the engine configuration (the blowoff valve has not been altered in location etc) and previously I had no issues like this.

I have since removed the blowoff valve to see if that makes any difference but it has not.

I have just noticed that the revs drop less when I decelerate quickly in 3rd gear rather than overdrive?

Maybe an auto issue?

thanks again, and I appologise if an old fart like me has jumped into the wrong forum.

If you need a tuner that wont rip you off, id go see GAVIN WOOD at Labrador, he's very experienced with skylines, go and have a chat.

Actually if you are decelerating QUICKLY from 4th your in torque lockup so its got a lot of gears to change down in a short time, might be expected with an auto, I once had an R31 that had a slipping box, so they increased the oil pressure and it started holding onto top gear too long and stalling every time I came to a stop.

Edited by AngryRB

Just throwing it out there but my car (manual) had a similar issue when engaging the clutch at low speeds/coming to a stop. revs would drop below idle and car would almost stall. I found that an old/dodgey o2 sensor was to blame partially and when i changed it the dip in revs below idle was no where near as bad. also the IAC valve could be all choked up and be slow at opening, there is a DIY thread about cleaning it too on here somewhere.

Hope that helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 馃槄
    • with the car running (runs fine when temp is cold), I unplugged the MAF and the car stalled.  I have already cleaned it a week ago.  I unplugged the O2 sensor from the left side of the vehicle, and the car was still running.  I let it idle for about 5-7 minutes and shut it off, to see if it would restart, and it did not.  It cranks but doesn't start after engine temp gets up to normal range.   I still need to look at the coolant temp sensor, is this one at the top or bottom of the radiator? Or is it one of the sensor threaded into the T-stat housing?
  • Create New...