Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Does anybody know or has seen this car?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1999/SSE-AD-3222430/?Cr=38

Would appreciate any comments or through my inbox.

Its a lot but at the same time a lot has been spent on it.

Ill be sure to call RacePace to ask about it as they worked on it but wanted to get the SAU's opinion as well.

Cheers

A weekend car, something to keep for very very long time. I know it has some serious power behind it, but again i dont forsee my self going to the tracks in the near future - will be kept for weekend drives and meets with SAU

From memory this was one of Alex Cheung's (a friend of mine) cars, he imported back around 2008 / 2009.

Looks like the seller now has cleaned it up and done it nicely.

Going from the Car Sales ad, engine bay and interior still all looks the same / similar.

The car has all the tasteful mods, sounded and tuned aggressive when I saw.

The front bar had canards bolted on, hence the 3 holes you see and the front bar has been cut above the number plate for more air flow to the intercooler.

Beautiful looking R34 GTR. It's still rare to find good ones with that level of modification.

Hey Matt! Sup!

Thanks for the reply.

Do you know when Alex sold it? or maybe you can PM me Alex's details.

It does look very clean which is why im asking around before I go have a look.

Alex, did he previously had a black r34 gtt? which was done up quite a bit?

I remember a guy who had one he used to work for Telstra when I first started there.

Edited by milanr34

In its current form its not really streetable, you'll be pulled over within 5 minutes as soon as you hit any main road. In saying that though, a quieter exhaust, maybe raise it a little bit and it would be a fun weekender, albeit a bit brash :)

Yea its a def to raise it up but i think the exhaust might be ok. I've had a modified 34 gtt for 2 years and havent been pulled over once.

In saying that the only problem is the engine bay as it looks very modified however i guess it will come down to the police officer - not too sure how much would it cost to make it all charcoal (prob not worth it).

But will see how we go - thanks all for the replies and Jamie

  • Like 1

If you want a streeter I wouldn't buy this car

Why do you say that?

Sure 365kw is a big number but will be used only on weekends and SAU meets. Granted the polish in the bay is a bit much, but all you have to do is put the stock airbox back and perhaps recoat some of the things.

Not too sure if having chorme stuff is eligable for a canary. I have to look up things for the oil catch can, fuel regulator etc etc

I don't plan on doing stupid stuff on the streets (learnt my lesson 10 years ago) but If i need the speed then it will be track time.

Only reason why im considering this its because a lot of work has gone into this car, esp the pricey 2.8L upgrade. I could buy a stock 34 for 40k then put all these mods and would be the same in price if not more. So im just taking time into consideration as well.

Feel free to give feedback its nothing against the seller but im sure people here have similar cars which get driven on the weekend

i don't know what you guys are talking about it not being a good street car, looks perfect to me....

Not too much power (over the top) and he has kept the twins.

The only issue is the height and that is easy to fix.

If the intake annoys you that much, buy the car and ill buy the intake off you.

Modding cars for street use just isn't fun in Victoria any more. It's either make it super stealth/plain in the engine bay for the inevitable 'random' police stop, or keep your 'fast' car for use on the track. Or buy an R35 (or equivalent fast factory built car). Or move to Queensland.

The fuel pressure regulator is not a roadworthy 'defect' item, but it is on the list of 'banned' items advised by the EPA. Same goes for aftermarket ECU, fuel system mods (injectors, fuel pump(s)), exhaust, etc, etc. The EPA have authority over VicRoads to suspend your registration and impose nasty fines. Once your car has an EPA notice, you need to return it to stock, and you cannot sell it registered. Not worth the hassle unless any mods you have are easily reversible, or if you hardly ever drive it, but you still run the risk every time you take it out on the road.

When i moved to Victoria 5 years ago i was almost put off getting back into skylines after reading the EPA thread. Touch wood but i have never been pulled over or had any kind of trouble whatsoever, granted 95% of my driving is out of town on weekends and RDO's but still. So really ask yourself what kind of weekend driving you want to do, do you want to weekend drive like i do or do you want to drive around melbourne with your mates on fri/sat night. If it's the latter then like everyone says, probably more hassle than it's worth....

If it's the former, apart from all the holes in the bumper the car looks awesome, i think the skirts etc make the car look lower than it actually is

Good luck finding what you want.........

Thanks for all the replies everybody really appreciate it.

There can be some country and more so just driving around beach and SAU meet ups. That whole fri/sat night "runs" I got over 10 years ago.

Ill enquire about this one, but might be a better option to import one with slightly less mods.

Will let everybody know how it all goes.

Thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean I can be OCD'y but this is really over the top. At that point why not just run a full wideband fuel controller? Especially if you run 3 widebands. The system works pretty well, which is trimming low load stuff to be within a few percent of the base map. Pre-engine _change_ the base map was only 1-2% off, depending on ambient temp, elevation, etc. Under load the LS is really very straightforward to tune, enough that a wideband closed loop would be overkill. If I really cared (and I hope I don't) I can always just go back to the MAF system the car actually came with. Which does all those nice calculations for me (temp, altitude, etc), now that you can buy 102mm MAF's that do not cause restrictions.
    • Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
×
×
  • Create New...