Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just buy NGK copper plugs from your local auto store/s. Depending on boost levels you may want to run 6 or 7 for your heat range. Usually the plugs come 1.1mm gap, simply gap them down to 0.8mm and put them in.

May as well check your coil packs and ignition leads at the same time to prevent issues during tuning or down the track.

I can tell you right now that you should definitely be pulling more power closer to 300kw if you are using factory injectors/pump (at their limits). Running the 9's at low boost you'll get increased lag, assuming you are chasing response you might want to consider your fuel system options to prevent that. Obviously factory clutch might become an issue possibly unless you put a better one in with the motor out and other issues arise.

Final question, what made you rebuild your rb26 with standard components and not aim for stronger internals or head work?

Cheers for the reply. I was in a bit of a rush with the initial post as the donk is not completely standard. to be honest 300 is the aim I was just being conservative.

it has Forged pistons, upgraded rods, oil restrictor, sump baffle, tomei metal gaskets. its not over the top but should do 300awkw pretty easliy. My goal with the -9's is to run about 20/21 psi as the haltech will do that by default

The clutch has also been sorted. its new and not stock.

Sounds good and perfect for 300kw, nice figure and I am aiming for around 330kw at 20/21psi with my setup once complete. I am also using hks gt-ss's which are -9 equivalent.

But yeah make sure the fuel system and ignition is sorted correctly and you should get good results with the setup you have.

Stock camshafts will still be good but if you put in adjustable cam gears you might of done some camshafts at the same time to give you that increase.

With regards to plugs, there are two types you might need to try to find what works best for you. Consult your engine builder/tuner to see what he might suggest but it is a matter of trial and error really. But if you have new ignition components then you probably won't see any issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this.  Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal   Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
    • January or Feb is it booked in for turbo fitment?
    • The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling,  and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front   and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????
    • Paint is only structural when applied to the outside of Chinese and Indian cars. Otherwise it should never be present between mechanical joints that were intended to be metal to metal. Pain slips, slides, cracks, compresses, and add thickness that wasn't intended to be there. It comes firmly under the category of "just no".
    • appreciated it thanks   There are threads on the adaptor. I rear re anodising but didn’t know it will reduce strength   re mating services needing to be flat/ not painted, why would that be? I am devastated as car been off for a year, fixed power steering then installed bm57 master cylinder and just before driving it this came up. So annoyed   worried and afraid to drive it, no fun caliper coming off    
×
×
  • Create New...