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Wiring Diagram for a Z32 AFM?

wannabe

By wannabe,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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wannabe Proficient

wannabe

Posted
Posted

Hey All,

I was just wondering if I could get some information on how to wire a Z32 afm into my Series II R33 GTS-T (I have the appropriate plug.) A wiring diagram would be highly desirable but any info anyone could share with me on the topic would be most appreciated!

Just for the record I have done some searches but I have not had much luck. Sorry if I am rehashing old queries…

Cheers

Tim

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R31 POWER Mentor

R31 POWER

Posted
Posted

I hope this helps,I got this off this forum ages ago.

====Z32 AFM flow===>

1 2 3 4 5 6

1 = no connect

2 = AFM signal

3 = ground

4 = AFM ground

5 = 12V

6 = no connect

====ECR33 Flow===>

1 2 3

1 = 12V

2 = AFM ground

3 = AFM signal

OMRAN Collaborator

OMRAN

Posted
Posted

hey mate ...

z32 MAF marked A to F but only four connections are used when fitting to the rb20det i think also rb25det (not sure )

A: Blank off

B: connect to Black wire

C: connect to black/silver

D: connect to white

E: connect to black with white trace

F: Blank off

you'll need the eprom remapped to suit

check out the pic

and good luck ... happy HP :D

  • 3 months later...
Trust33 Grand Master

Trust33

Posted
Posted
I hope this helps,I got this off this forum ages ago.

====Z32 AFM flow===>  

1 2 3 4 5 6  

1 = no connect  

2 = AFM signal  

3 = ground  

4 = AFM ground

5 = 12V  

6 = no connect  

====ECR33 Flow===>  

1 2 3  

1 = 12V  

2 = AFM ground  

3 = AFM signal

Hi,Got to dig up an old thread

Does this mean that for the r33 all that is needed to do is to ground the z32 afm straight to the chassie.

====Z32 AFM flow===>

1 2 3 4 5 6

1 = no connect

2 = AFM signal .... 3 on r33

3 = ground ..........straight to chassie

4 = AFM ground... 2 on r33

5 = 12V ...............1 on r33

6 = no connect

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted
Hey All,

I was just wondering if I could get some information on how to wire a Z32 afm into my Series II R33 GTS-T (I have the appropriate plug.) A wiring diagram would be highly desirable but any info anyone could share with me on the topic would be most appreciated!

Just for the record I have done some searches but I have not had much luck. Sorry if I am rehashing old queries…

Cheers

Tim

Gently remove lid, unsolder three pins, remove socket, do same to old AFM, fit socket, replace lid. Sika-Flex for seal.... Done.

TT

Trust33 Grand Master

Trust33

Posted
Posted

And thats how its done....Just curious but if you just dont connect the unessesary pins it wouldnt have an effect at all hence there would be no need to remove the cap and re-sikaflex it......And why would there be a need to do the same to the old afm? just unplug it replace it with the z32 wouldnt you?Picking at you a bit cause i have never got a straight answer.

Oh,i see what you are getting at.Gently remove lid, unsolder three pins, remove socket. Sika-Flex for seal.... Done.But what about the fourth pin for the ground,the r33 only has three pins and the z32 has a fourth does it get grounded to the chassie?

====Z32 AFM flow===>

1 2 3 4 5 6

1 = no connect

2 = AFM signal

3 = ground

4 = AFM ground

5 = 12V

6 = no connect

====ECR33 Flow===>

1 2 3

1 = 12V to z32 12v

2 = AFM ground to z32 afm ground

3 = AFM signal to z32 afm signal

4..And finally the ground straight to the chassie which is what i was geting at in my previous post..

:) :wassup:

Trust33 Grand Master

Trust33

Posted
Posted

And thats how its done....Just curious but if you just dont connect the unessesary pins it wouldnt have an effect at all hence there would be no need to remove the cap and re-sikaflex it......And why would there be a need to do the same to the old afm? just unplug it replace it with the z32 wouldnt you?Picking at you a bit cause i have never got a straight answer.

Oh,i see what you are getting at.Gently remove lid, unsolder three pins, remove socket. Sika-Flex for seal.... Done.But what about the fourth pin for the ground,the r33 only has three pins and the z32 has a fourth does it get grounded to the chassie?

====Z32 AFM flow===>

1 2 3 4 5 6

1 = no connect

2 = AFM signal

3 = ground

4 = AFM ground

5 = 12V

6 = no connect

====ECR33 Flow===>

1 2 3

1 = 12V to z32 12v

2 = AFM ground to z32 afm ground

3 = AFM signal to z32 afm signal

4..And finally the z32 ground straight to the chassie which is what i was geting at in my previous post..

:) :wassup:

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted
And thats how its done....Just curious but if you just dont connect the unessesary pins it wouldnt have an effect at all hence there would be no need to remove the cap and re-sikaflex it......And why would there be a need to do the same to the old afm? just unplug it replace it with the z32 wouldnt you?Picking at you a bit cause i have never got a straight answer.

Oh,i see what you are getting at.Gently remove lid, unsolder three pins, remove socket. Sika-Flex for seal.... Done.But what about the fourth pin for the ground,the r33 only has three pins and the z32 has a fourth does it get grounded to the chassie?

====Z32 AFM flow===>                      

1 2 3 4 5 6  

1 = no connect                                              

2 = AFM signal  

3 = ground  

4 = AFM ground

5 = 12V  

6 = no connect

====ECR33 Flow===>  

1 2 3  

1 = 12V to z32 12v

2 = AFM ground to z32 afm ground

3 = AFM signal to z32 afm signal

4..And finally the z32 ground straight to the chassie which is what i was geting at in my previous post..

:D :wassup:

Make that unsolder "4"

:Oops:

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted
weird why is that.And why would meggala say that it needs 4 wires to hook up.:D

I dunno, but I like to investigate alternatives, and for me it is easier to change the socket, and leave the loom in tact. Some prefer to solder wires and use heatshrink.

My method takes ten minutes from go to whoa... Each to their own.

Thats the beauty of having alternatives...

Anyone who is interested I have some pics zipped.

TT

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