Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so at this stage im going to go for a td05 16g with a std 2.4" or 3" compressor cover, compared to the garrett 2860 this should provide similar response and power except $400 cheaper, or will it be not as god as the garret turbo?

I think it largely depends on how good those Kando Rb T3 housings work. The TD05-16G you describe is effectively a Trust T517z. The Garrett is effectively a HKS 2530. So if you spend a few hours reading SR20DET results using a T517z vs HKS 2530 you will get an idea what you are getting yourself into :)

EVERYTHING is a compromise! You need to decide for yourself what compromises you will live with based on what your desired objectives are.

i think i may end up going with the garrett after all, it is slightly larger overall but its ball bearing vs the kinugawa's journal bearing so i'll be getting a similar response overall with more power, i guess thats why its an extra $400 haha, and if the garrett really is essentially a hks 2530 then on every single thread ive read the hks turbo is the best thing for an rb20 so i might just go with that

ive heard plenty of stories with second hand turbos that have put me off them haha, or just but the garrett for $1400?

That's for you to decide isn't it....

Heaps of people have no worries with second hand turbos. Obviously there is a risk though.

unless hks decide to suddenly have a 50% off sale then at this stage garrett it is, i dont have a problem with second hand parts as long as they arent something major, but with a turbo i just dont want to run the risk since it can have large consequences so i'll be going with a new one

the garrett is the exact same as the hks, roy posted a graph with several different turbos on rb20's and the garret and hks had almost identical spool rates and peak boost levels, and its 1400 as opposed to the more expensive hks, i'd prefer not to get a used turbo as there is always the risk of it being shit

I don't think they're exactly the same...should be pretty close but the HKS might be tweaked a bit.

The more important aspect is that the HKS comes as a kit with everything you need should you buy it new, hence why it is a good value and worth the money.

I don't know anyone who has bought a HKS 2530 who has said "gee I wish I bought a cheaper turbo!" or anything like that.

  • Like 1

they are almost identical in terms of basically everything, i have not found a hks turbo with the kit for any less than $2200 so i dont know where you got your $1800 figure from, and i've just found the garrett can come with a kit for an extra $200, making it still $200 cheaper than your $1800 value anyway, and you're talking like anything but a hks turbo is garbage, last time i checked garrett is one of the best brands out there, but then again you're a guy willing to spend $250 on a second hand hks dump pipe so by the looks of things you're a hks fanboy who thinks everything else is crap so your advice seems pretty pointless and useless honestly

HKS IS Garrett. Just with some unique-to-HKS (but still made by Garrett) housings and wheels. The quality is exactly the same.

Back when the 2530 came out, Garrett were not allowed to put out a turbo using the same stuff as the HKS turbos had. But that agreement would have expired years ago, hence Garrett have been able to put out things which are not much different from the old HKS products.

HKS IS Garrett. Just with some unique-to-HKS (but still made by Garrett) housings and wheels. The quality is exactly the same.

Back when the 2530 came out, Garrett were not allowed to put out a turbo using the same stuff as the HKS turbos had. But that agreement would have expired years ago, hence Garrett have been able to put out things which are not much different from the old HKS products.

There are multiple versions of the 2530, the 2530kai (the current iteration) is a pretty recent product.

they are almost identical in terms of basically everything, i have not found a hks turbo with the kit for any less than $2200 so i dont know where you got your $1800 figure from, and i've just found the garrett can come with a kit for an extra $200, making it still $200 cheaper than your $1800 value anyway, and you're talking like anything but a hks turbo is garbage, last time i checked garrett is one of the best brands out there, but then again you're a guy willing to spend $250 on a second hand hks dump pipe so by the looks of things you're a hks fanboy who thinks everything else is crap so your advice seems pretty pointless and useless honestly

Garrett makes HKS turbos. But the HKS turbos are not exactly the same ones that Garrett sells themselves.

The HKS 2530kai is specifically designed for the RB20 and RB25DET. The Garrett ones are universal.

I am willing to spend $250 on a HKS dump because that's what they're worth, but I found one in Japan. I am using it to test the difference in response between the Tomei one and the HKS one.

If you want the best suited turbo for the job you'll buy the HKS one as it is designed for this engine with a smaller housing for better response. If you want to save a few hundred dollars go ahead but don't come here complaining when it doesn't have the same response as your stock RB20DET turbo or RB25DET turbo.

Amazon Japan sells it new as a kit for $1885.64 USD right now. Go get someone to buy it for you.

Edited by Matvei27

$1885 USD = $2462 AUD and this is an australian forum so it would be a good assumption to make that most people here are from australia, on the graphs roy posted the garrett and hks had the basically exact same spool rate, peak boost, with the garrett having more top end power as well, now both cars could have had different modifications but both were rb20's and you generally cant change the spool time of a turbo unless you increase capacity, it simply makes no sense to spend $800 more on a turbo which will spool up at the same time, make the same power and is of the same quality, unless of course you genuinely like throwing away your money pointlessly

Judging by the graph the HKS has slightly more low down power whereas the Garrett has more up top.

Which makes sense as the 2530 was tweaked to improve response on RB engines.

If the difference isn't worth it to you that's one thing but clearly the 2530 is slightly more responsive so at the end of the day it depends if you want low end or top end.

in the graph the hks has more power off boost until about halfway spooled, and between halfway and when the turbo is spooled up they have almost identical power, keeping in mind the garrett turbo is running less boost as seen in the bottom graph, $800 for about 100-200rpm more responsiveness is simply not worth it, especially considering peak power was 10-20kw's more than the hks with less boost

Edited by sama1500

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
×
×
  • Create New...