Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been trying to do this all morning with no luck. I have read how to enter diag. mode but my ecu does not have the selector screw, and also does not have the diag connector. Therefore i cannot enter diag mode.

I dont have any LEDs on the ecu either so i guess i go by the engine check light.

I have a 95mdl GTST, anyone else have this problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/
Share on other sites

under the dash on the drivers side there is a connector with 14 pin holes (2 rows of 7 pin holes) in it....looking at the front of the connector with the chamfered end facing the left you need to switch the ignition on and touch the 6th and the 7th wires on the top row together for a second with a paperclip,the vehicle will enter diagnostic mode....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928326
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928600
Share on other sites

under the dash on the drivers side there is a connector with 14 pin holes (2 rows of 7 pin holes) in it....looking at the front of the connector with the chamfered end facing the left you need to switch the ignition on and touch the 6th and the 7th wires on the top row together for a second with a paperclip,the vehicle will enter diagnostic mode....

Thats the problem, there is no connector. Can anyone post a pic of where theirs is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928769
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

Yeah i took the ecu right out and there were 2 holes, possibly where the LEDs go on the other models. Mine just had a blanking sticker over the holes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928774
Share on other sites

Where are you, i can get hold of a carmen scan tool, does all imports to current models and also displays active data.

Does the scan tool plug into the wiring harness or ecu or both? I would be interested in been shown what it does.

I am in quakers hill, about 25 mins from penrith

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928777
Share on other sites

sorry to hijack

but i wanted to get my ecu out to see if it is a stock one or not, cause it doesnt cut out at 180

can anyone help?

ive tried to get the kick panel out but after i take off two screws it is still connected by something else behind it

Mine only had the 1 screw closest to the front near the firewall but has 2 clips that need a good tug to break free. get a commone screwdriver and wedge it between the panel at the back of it, near the door seal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928779
Share on other sites

i had to lift of the plastic sill (with skyline embossed) then unscrew that plastic nut near the firewall

then i unscrewed one of the dash compartment screws so that i could get it out a bit easier

once i done that it still has a clip of some sort that needs to be undone or something, im guessing that is what needs a good tug?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928786
Share on other sites

Jason, they ECU has 3 bolts holding it in, one on firewall and two on other end!

Damo, mine has a clear platic sticker with Jap writing over the screw.. it's within the hole and needs a small flat head screw driver! if it has no LED's then just turn clockwise all the way the turn it back!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-929282
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

The engine needs to be running. Disconnect Water Temp sender with engine running, then run diagnostics.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-930091
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...