Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been trying to do this all morning with no luck. I have read how to enter diag. mode but my ecu does not have the selector screw, and also does not have the diag connector. Therefore i cannot enter diag mode.

I dont have any LEDs on the ecu either so i guess i go by the engine check light.

I have a 95mdl GTST, anyone else have this problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/
Share on other sites

under the dash on the drivers side there is a connector with 14 pin holes (2 rows of 7 pin holes) in it....looking at the front of the connector with the chamfered end facing the left you need to switch the ignition on and touch the 6th and the 7th wires on the top row together for a second with a paperclip,the vehicle will enter diagnostic mode....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928326
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928600
Share on other sites

under the dash on the drivers side there is a connector with 14 pin holes (2 rows of 7 pin holes) in it....looking at the front of the connector with the chamfered end facing the left you need to switch the ignition on and touch the 6th and the 7th wires on the top row together for a second with a paperclip,the vehicle will enter diagnostic mode....

Thats the problem, there is no connector. Can anyone post a pic of where theirs is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928769
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

Yeah i took the ecu right out and there were 2 holes, possibly where the LEDs go on the other models. Mine just had a blanking sticker over the holes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928774
Share on other sites

Where are you, i can get hold of a carmen scan tool, does all imports to current models and also displays active data.

Does the scan tool plug into the wiring harness or ecu or both? I would be interested in been shown what it does.

I am in quakers hill, about 25 mins from penrith

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928777
Share on other sites

sorry to hijack

but i wanted to get my ecu out to see if it is a stock one or not, cause it doesnt cut out at 180

can anyone help?

ive tried to get the kick panel out but after i take off two screws it is still connected by something else behind it

Mine only had the 1 screw closest to the front near the firewall but has 2 clips that need a good tug to break free. get a commone screwdriver and wedge it between the panel at the back of it, near the door seal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928779
Share on other sites

i had to lift of the plastic sill (with skyline embossed) then unscrew that plastic nut near the firewall

then i unscrewed one of the dash compartment screws so that i could get it out a bit easier

once i done that it still has a clip of some sort that needs to be undone or something, im guessing that is what needs a good tug?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928786
Share on other sites

Jason, they ECU has 3 bolts holding it in, one on firewall and two on other end!

Damo, mine has a clear platic sticker with Jap writing over the screw.. it's within the hole and needs a small flat head screw driver! if it has no LED's then just turn clockwise all the way the turn it back!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-929282
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

The engine needs to be running. Disconnect Water Temp sender with engine running, then run diagnostics.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-930091
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...