Jump to content
SAU Community

Wax Or Sealant?

colourclassic
 Share

Recommended Posts

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Hmmm applying a sealant over a wax is the exact opposite of what you are meant to do.....

With stacking, you always put the most durable product as your base and least durable as your top. Sealants also require a squeaky clean surface to bond to, this is why you are meant to always do an IPA wipe down of the surface before applying. So having a sealant try to bond to a Carnauba, Montan or Beeswax based wax normally doesn't go to well.

I personally haven't played with the Zaino stuff (but I am aware of their range) and the ZCS is meant to be the same as what Nanolex Spray Sealant is which I have plenty of experience in.

Very strange...

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

To get technical Modesta is a coating, not a sealant :)

Modesta is the same patented Japanese technology as what we do under the Gyeon range. Extremely good stuff that lasts for years.

This is my write up on the Gyeon Mohs + system but basically applies the same to Modesta BC-03 :) I've been thinking of offering Modesta as well just in case some people prefer one over the other.

www.attention-to-detail.com.au/what-are-gyeon-quartz-cloth-coatings

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

I believe so depending on what you want :)

It depends what is important to you I guess. The main benefit is the scratch resistance since that can't be reproduced with anything else. So in black cars swirl marks are always going to happen unless you are extremely careful with how you wash your car (most of the general public aren't but obviously on a car enthusiast forum like this a large majority are fussy about their car). The added hardness from the coating makes swirl marks nearly a thing of the past as long as you are a little bit smart with washing.

For a person that absolutely loves detailing cars and wants to be in the garage every few months all day long, then using high end waxes and such is fun and rewarding so a coating might not be necessary as you probably aren't getting the full benefits.

With me, I have a black 2014 Mazda 3 SP25 that my partner uses as a daily and isn't taken care of as much as it should, so for this I did a Mohs+ coating and it is fantastic for it since I know it is completely protected, easy to keep looking good and I don't need to clean it as often.

For my M3 I barely drive it and always try keeping it looking as best as I can. I like trying new products that suppliers send me and always do test panels to see how product A goes against product B. I'm extremely fussy with how I wash it and it is dark grey so for my car I like using waxes/sealants. If I didn't have the Mazda as well, I probably would have done a coating but this way I can show customers both vehicles if they want to see real world differences.

Check out her black Mazda 3 here: www.attention-to-detail.com.au/project-gallery/mazda3paintcorrection

The gloss and depth I got out of that was simply breathtaking but took my a week to do.

Either way I always recommend a coating to a customer because it is so different to waxes and sealants and is true modern day technology. Understandably the cost of $600-$800 that I charge might not be for every ones budget, but I still think it is a bargain given what it does.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No Crust Racing
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By No Crust Racing · Posted

      Gas MIG for learning, I was able to weld up some nice 1.6mm tubs so you can do thin stuff easily enough. Then moved on to thick caliper adaptor brackets with the same machine, all good.  Arc/Stick is great for dirty garden work etc, but Gas MIG for starting on car stuff.  Jump on the NCR FB page and search ATP Tubs or GKTech caliper adaptors for pics/info. I'm no pro but it wasn't hard to learn. Be willing to grind and go again though if it's cold etc. 
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      That's not a bushing!  
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh and I got myself a grandpa spec dash mat.  
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Ok, so first round of maintenance done. I didn't get much history with the car but I know it was well looked after. That isn't enough for me though, so ...  I had to do the oil filter housing gasket. It was leaking a lot, and also as part of that I did the anti-return valve and the VANOS oil line (from HEL).  But, then I got hit with the while-ya-in-there's. Did both accessory and A/C belts, tensioners and pulley. The accessory belt that came off had a huge hole in it, like somebody hung it up with a nail. The pulley and tensioners seem ok, so I'll keep those just in case. I did water pump and pump pulley. The water pump had a small bit of play so timing was good.  I also did fan clutch. I don't know how to test the old one but between the water pump and the fan clutch the car is running a little bit cooler (not much ~2 - 3 degrees maybe) so good result. Unfortunately the thermostat and housing didn't turn up in time so I'll shelve those. I have no concerns at all on the current ones.  Then I spent what seemed like 40 days and 40 nights bleeding the air from the cooling system. She also got new air filter, fuel filter and did a Mobil 1 change with oil filter. Hilariously, not an hour after telling my wife how proud I was of myself to be going slowly and meticulously and making sure everything was torqued and nothing missing I went and started it without the oil filter in. The car complained immediately of no pressure and after only a few seconds I turned it off and discovered a shit tonne of oil on the driveway. Sigh. I've driven it since and thankfully doesn't seem to be any problems. AND THEN during the test drive a ratchet extension fell into the battery area in the boot and JAMMED right next to the positive terminal and the car body. Like, just touching it made sparks and it was jammed in there. So, almost killed the engine and then almost burned the car to a crisp. Good start. This was the rails under the splash guards. So stoked, she's straight as and super clean. No rust anywhere. There was a heap of caked dirt that I removed but otherwise looked great. All 4 jacking points are perfect.   Next I want to service the gearbox. Sometimes it's a little reluctant to shift up and I'm hoping a fluid change will sort it. I also have 4 new rear subframe bushes. They're as big as a toddler. I'm renting a tool to help put them in. I can't wait for this because its a bit crashy back there at the moment.  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Remember when those donkeys kept using freedom units and smashed that satellite to bits on the moon? NASA has their brain switched on and uses the metric system.
×
×
  • Create New...