Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmmm applying a sealant over a wax is the exact opposite of what you are meant to do.....

With stacking, you always put the most durable product as your base and least durable as your top. Sealants also require a squeaky clean surface to bond to, this is why you are meant to always do an IPA wipe down of the surface before applying. So having a sealant try to bond to a Carnauba, Montan or Beeswax based wax normally doesn't go to well.

I personally haven't played with the Zaino stuff (but I am aware of their range) and the ZCS is meant to be the same as what Nanolex Spray Sealant is which I have plenty of experience in.

Very strange...

To get technical Modesta is a coating, not a sealant :)

Modesta is the same patented Japanese technology as what we do under the Gyeon range. Extremely good stuff that lasts for years.

This is my write up on the Gyeon Mohs + system but basically applies the same to Modesta BC-03 :) I've been thinking of offering Modesta as well just in case some people prefer one over the other.

www.attention-to-detail.com.au/what-are-gyeon-quartz-cloth-coatings

I believe so depending on what you want :)

It depends what is important to you I guess. The main benefit is the scratch resistance since that can't be reproduced with anything else. So in black cars swirl marks are always going to happen unless you are extremely careful with how you wash your car (most of the general public aren't but obviously on a car enthusiast forum like this a large majority are fussy about their car). The added hardness from the coating makes swirl marks nearly a thing of the past as long as you are a little bit smart with washing.

For a person that absolutely loves detailing cars and wants to be in the garage every few months all day long, then using high end waxes and such is fun and rewarding so a coating might not be necessary as you probably aren't getting the full benefits.

With me, I have a black 2014 Mazda 3 SP25 that my partner uses as a daily and isn't taken care of as much as it should, so for this I did a Mohs+ coating and it is fantastic for it since I know it is completely protected, easy to keep looking good and I don't need to clean it as often.

For my M3 I barely drive it and always try keeping it looking as best as I can. I like trying new products that suppliers send me and always do test panels to see how product A goes against product B. I'm extremely fussy with how I wash it and it is dark grey so for my car I like using waxes/sealants. If I didn't have the Mazda as well, I probably would have done a coating but this way I can show customers both vehicles if they want to see real world differences.

Check out her black Mazda 3 here: www.attention-to-detail.com.au/project-gallery/mazda3paintcorrection

The gloss and depth I got out of that was simply breathtaking but took my a week to do.

Either way I always recommend a coating to a customer because it is so different to waxes and sealants and is true modern day technology. Understandably the cost of $600-$800 that I charge might not be for every ones budget, but I still think it is a bargain given what it does.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
×
×
  • Create New...