R32 Running Problems + Possible Hicas Problem

[Incurafy]

G'day, this is my first thread and I wasn't sure where to post it, sorry if it's in the wrong section.

I bought an R32 GTS-T back in January, and aside from a split radiator hose, haven't had any problems until now.

The first problem started about a week ago when my car lost power for a second or two on a gear change. It was irregular, but I thought nothing of it. Later, it lost power entirely, and I had to clutch start it (while still doing 60-70km/h) to keep driving. The problem has persisted over the last week. In some cases, I'll clutch start it, but the engine won't go above 2-2500 RPM (as though it's hitting a limiter, or losing power whenever it gets that high). Turning the engine off for a few seconds and then turning it back on will "fix it" for a little while, sometimes, while other times it will repeat several times through turning it on/off.

Last night the car lost power on the way home, clutch start failed because it wouldn't go above 2-2.5k RPM, so I had to pull over. Then for the first time the car started when I turned the key, went straight to 1,500 RPM, then turned off completely. This happened several times in a row. I waited two minutes, tried again, and the car drove the rest of the way home without issue.

Short version:

1. Car will lose power for a couple of seconds while driving, then continue like normal
2. Car will lose power while driving, require clutch start to continue driving
3. Car will lose power while driving, require clutch start, but engine won't go above 2-2.5k RPM, have to pull over and turn car off and on again
4. Car will idle at 1,000 RPM, but will not go above 2-2.5k RPM
5. Car will start, go straight up to 1.5k RPM, then turn off completely

It's likely worth nothing that the car is equipped with a Mongoose alarm system which includes an immobiliser and turbo timer. I turned the alarm off at the unit under the bonnet with a key a few days before this problem started (the alarm was more annoying than anything, but the immobiliser still worked, so I thought it was safe). I've since turned it back on, thinking that was the cause of the problem, with no changes.

I've rung an autosparky who's gonna take a look at it next week, but in the mean time I'd love to be able to have something to tell him. Has anyone ever heard of this problem before, or know what the likely culprit is? It seems like an ignition problem, but I know SFA about cars and am still (slowly) learning.

The second problem is minor, and doesn't seem to affect the running of the car in any way. The HICAS light has started staying on for 2-5 minutes after starting the car, then turning off. I've never had it come on during cornering, no matter how hard I go, so I have no idea if it even works. Does anyone have any ideas? I've tried doing the HICAS diagnostic to see if it works, btw, but I've never been able to get it to do anything.

Cheers.

PS: I bought my R32 from a bloke named Kyle who I'm 99.99% sure is/was a member of this forum. If you read this, what's up!

[Incurafy]

Anyone? It's happening with more frequency now, but it's still inconsistent.

[breaker1845]

I've been in a GTR that experiences part of this problem slightly.

Basically the gearbox is in pretty shit condition and crunches 3rd/4th so when changing into gears at 60-80kmh I have to be gentle so I don't cause more damage to the box. While doing this the engine stalls (revs drop to 0) and the HICAS light comes on. As I change gears and release the clutch the car receives power again, HICAS light flicks off and continues operating as normal.

As far as I know it is some kind of HICAS problem that I am experiencing. Not entirely sure if your light comes on when the engine stalls. I have a theory that as the engine stalls when changing gears and reaches 0 rpm on the tacho, the HICAS faults out and power steering is lost until the engine comes on again.

With regards to HICAS, you might have a lock bar in your r32 but you'd have the light on constantly if you did otherwise you have some sort of ECU error code that you should get checked out by going into diagnostic mode. From memory to get into diagnostic mode you need to hard lock your steering wheel left and right five times roughly and then pump the brakes constantly all within about 10 seconds. You'll get the long/short flashes etc and you'd need to check what each code means. If you get nothing then you'll get like a constant flash which indicates no codes present which doesn't necessarily mean nothing is wrong.

See if you get any codes and what they correspond to. There could be issues with your wheel speed sensors, issues with the HICAS ECU itself and a range of problems. If you have changed your wheel size or rolling diameter lately that could of caused some issues with camber/toe and changed how the HICAS is reacting to that.

The 1.5k rpm issue when you are starting the car straight away (after stalling) could be to do with the starter motor and engine components still rotating when you stall or electronics, not sure on that one. The 2.5krpm sounds like a protection mode (limp mode) built into the ECU to prevent damage to your engine as your electronics must be sensing there is an issue.

Long story short I still have a similar issue I am trying to diagnose as its quite dangerous when this randomly happens at 70km/h or so while driving.

[Dylan454]

Do you have an aftermarket steering wheel? If yes than that's why the hicks light will come on after a while. If no then I'm not sure.

I had I problem with my r32, when driving it would cut out completely then start straight back up and keep going. Or when it was idling it would shut off. It got worse every week.

I changed my air flow meter and my cam angle sensor with 2nd hand ones . And it fixed my problem. But my car has started doing it again so I have bought a new air flow meter. I think it is most likely the AFM but I'll see when I put it on.

[Incurafy]

Thanks for the help guys, I figured out that I can use the ECU diagnostic mode to see if there are any problems and sure enough I'm getting error code 12 which is the MAF sensor. I cleaned it, checked all of the vacuum/pressure hoses (all tight, no leaking), went for a short drive, then tried the diagnostic again but still have the same error code (and the car still ran rough and went into limp mode at one point). I'm going to buy a "new" one from eBay (reconditioned/etc), and I've sent the seller a question to confirm that it's the right part, but until then, does anyone know anything else I should try before I spend $150?

Also, I'm positive that I don't have a HICAS lockout bar installed, and the HICAS unit is still in the boot. For some reason I can't get the car to enter the HICAS diagnostic, regardless of how many times I try. Any ideas?

Cheers.

[niZmO_Man]

Tried the solder fix?

[IM-32-FK]

Lol, why waste your time with ECU codes. Your problem is your air flow meter. r32 skylines are notorious for having shitty ones, you dont need to spend $150 for it lol...u can buy it for around $50 used from anyone (check facebook pages). Get the green label AFM. Before you do however, first turn on the engine, then unplug the air flow meter. If their is no change in idle then thats your problem 100%. Check that your intercooler and intake piping are still connected too, because that can cause the rev limiter issue as well

Also, u need to do the Hicas diagnostic test to determine your other problem. Its f**king easy and it works. When my power steering and speedo stopped working, i did the hicas test myself and found the problem. What you do it put your car in neutral and then turn the key to on, then after one second turn the engine on. Then immediately hook your steering wheel from one side to the other at least 5-10 times while pumping your brakes at the same time. Now look at the hicas light on your cluster. Youll notice it flash. If it flashes once, it means that its working fine. Once you see it flash twice fast, then that implies what the problem is. Look below

1. HICASsolenoid R.H.
2. HICASsolenoid L.H.
3. Cut-off valve
4. Power Steering solenoid
5. Vehicle Speed sensor
6. Steering anglesensor
7. Steering Neutral positon sensor
8. A/T: Parking Brake Sensor M/T: Clutch sensor
9. A/T: Inhibitor sensor M/T: Neutral sensor

i also like to mention that i had the problem of my car randomly turning off while i was driving. It was my battery that just needed charging. It did it like 3-4 times in a couple of weeks. But it may be unrelated to your cause. But maybe just maybe both your AFM and battery have clonked it. Just a suggestion.

Edited April 17, 2015 by IM-32-FK