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So i have recently purchased my first GTR and still being pretty new to the turbo world i though it would be helpful to post a thread to keep track and get info for my build.

I have had numerous N/A imports while on my p plates as well as a CA turbo 180 and a 32 GTST, and currently am lucky enough to have a 425HP Chrysler 300c SRT8 as my daily,

But still haven't had anything like this BNR32, not to mention the fact that its a Tommy Kaira Edition and the work that was carried out by the previous owner.

As it sits currently

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ENGINE & DRIVETRAIN

- RB26DETT fully rebuilt at 150,000 K’s

- CP forged oversized pistons

- Engine has been bored out to 2.7L

- HKS Intake & Exhaust cam gears, Tuned for street

- Stock Turbos

- Yellow Jacket coilpacks

- SARD fuel regulator

- NGK iridium spark plugs

- Injector been service & replaced with new filters and O-rings

- ARC intercooler

- ARC Air box with a K&N filter

- CUSCO Master brake cylinder Brace

- NIZMO Front and rear strut Braces

- TOMMY KAIRA billet engine oil cap

- Custom dump pipes

- 5" Round body high flow catch CAT (highest flowing on the market with 200 cis metal insides & 706.2 CFM) Thick walled 3" Stainless cat back

- Custom aluminium catch can with bullet cap

FUEL & CONTROL

- APEXI powerFC tuned for street use

- APEXI PFC hand held Controller

- BLITZ SBC-R DUAL Solenoid EBC

- GREDDY Fully Auto Turbo timer

- WALBRO 400 L/PH in tank fuel pump

SUSPENSION & BRAKES

- OHILONS Springs

- GTR stock brakes

- Slotted Rotors

- Bendix Ultimate pads.

BODY

-TOMMY KAIRA Front Bar with engraved Metal plaque

-TOMMY KAIRA Adjustable Rear wing with engrave metal plaque

-TOMMY KAIRA Front grill with

-TOMMY KAIRA badges

-TOMMY KAIRA Front bonnet lip

-TOMMY KAIRA side skirt

-TOMMY KAIRA Rear pods

-TOMMY KAIRA Rear Badge

-TOMMY KAIRA Decals on both side of car

- BBS RS II Wheels 17x9+20 all round running 235/45 tires

- Original paint, in very good condition

INTERIOR

- TOMMY KAIRA 300km/h complete dash

- TOMMY KAIRA centre triple gauge cluster

- TOMMY KAIRA Gear knob

- TOMMY KAIRA footrest

- TOMMY KAIRA key

- GTR seats

- 3 point Immobilizer with remote central locking and tilt alarm

- Full sound system with pop out DVD screen, has aux, Bluetooth ect.

The previous owner spent thousands on the rebuild and mods to only drive the car 3,500 k's over 2 years then it sat in his garage for 5 years until i came along

im in the process of registering it now but because it hasn't been regod in NSW since 2007 im having issues with getting the blue slip because it doent have the compliance plate (which i think they started making after this car was imported) but it does have a QLD mod plate from the last owner who was in QLD. i live on the boarder of NSW QLD so ive decided ill go QLD rego for the moment until i finish most of the mods that will need engineering then go get the NSW engineers certificate and swap to NSW rego. going QLD will just be cheaper and easier for the moment as well as having the benefit of NSW cops not wanting to touch a QLD plated car while its in NSW.

ive got the QLD RWC booked in for Thursday, if it passes it will be on the road that day

ill keep updating with my progress and if anyone has any information on Tommy Kaira 32's hit me up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455178-doms-tommy-kaira-r32-gtr/
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Rego is sorted, QLD is so much easier!!! didnt even have to have a qld license haha.

now that ive had a chance to give it a good drive some issues have become apparent,

first the cars hunting on idle so there is most likely a vacuum leak somewhere

and the car wont stay on boost it keeps fluttering off and is very uneven so im guessing a boost leak somewhere also

and finally there is a put put sound on idle once warm, ill attach a link to a vid below.

https://youtu.be/o_a1fwDBBuw

i have had this last issue on my old r34 and spent a fair bit chasing the problem on coilpacks new leads and spark plugs ect and it turned out to be the TPS, that being the cheapest fix im just going to buy a new one and chuck it in and see what happens

Rego is sorted, QLD is so much easier!!! didnt even have to have a qld license haha.

now that ive had a chance to give it a good drive some issues have become apparent,

first the cars hunting on idle so there is most likely a vacuum leak somewhere

and the car wont stay on boost it keeps fluttering off and is very uneven so im guessing a boost leak somewhere also

and finally there is a put put sound on idle once warm, ill attach a link to a vid below.

https://youtu.be/o_a1fwDBBuw

i have had this last issue on my old r34 and spent a fair bit chasing the problem on coilpacks new leads and spark plugs ect and it turned out to be the TPS, that being the cheapest fix im just going to buy a new one and chuck it in and see what happens

Haven't seen a r32 tke in white before, looks rad!

I have the same issue atm, it's miss firing on idle. I have been chasing this one for a while too and haven't tried another tps yet. Interested to see what a new tps does for you.

thanks, it might have had a respray, not sure. didn't get too much of the cars history

and i should have the TPS here by late next week and well see if it changes anything

some pics from today,

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  • Like 1

Just wondering what spec your car is. There should be a build plate on the firewall. That would give some clues to what has been done.

Looks very clean. It would be worth keeping.

Its a type R

and a update on the issues above,

i still think the uneven idle is from the TPS and maybe even the MAF as well as possibly the wrong spark plugs

as for the boost leak flutter thing i now think thats because the car is still running stock blow offs which are only good for 10-11 PSI, as soon as i hit around 0.6 bar (8.8 PSI) + it sounds like their releasing all the pressure and it gets worse the higher the boost gets, obviously because of the pressure.

(even when i turn the dual SBC down to 0 (stock boost) it still happens

im assuming new blow offs will fix this, anyone have any recommendations on what type or brand to go for and why?

the car has been sitting for 5 years and if their the original blow offs their 150,000 k's old maybe the springs have weakened or something.

what else would cause me to be fluttering off and losing boost pressure at over 0.8 bar

heres another vid http://youtu.be/6-HEo4Mc6TI can hear the problem a bit better

im going to book it into my mechanic and see what he thinks going on but that will take a week or so

  • 3 weeks later...

turns out it was just off fuel since the car had been sitting for so long, now that theirs some legit 98 in the tanks everything working well and its holding boost pressure fine

  • 2 weeks later...

anyone on here handy with duel solenoid ebc's?

this is my first time dealing with one so im not 100% sure on everything and want to avoid damaging engine internals in the learning process.

basically ive been running the ebc on off (which goes back to stock settings) while ive been running the crap fuel out, now that the fuel is good ive been turning it up slowly to see how the car reacts.

i have the warning set to 1.2 bar but it still peaks at 1.4 usually and today peaked at 1.87 bar which is 27.5 psi,

i have the 4 settings set to 10, 20, 25 and 30 currently. (from what i read these are a percentage of the turbos capability so im still fairly low in their potential right?)

when the ebc is off boost holds fine but once turned up i get slight cut offs while achieving boost occasionally and it doesnt hold as clean as it does when its off and peaks over 1.2 bar which causes the boost to cut slightly also on occasion.

with these settings shouldn't the boost reach 1.2 bar cleanly then just stay there until i change gears or release the accelerator regardless off the power percentage setting then with the power percentage turned up shouldn't it just reach boost quicker and still hold the 1.2 bar its set at instead of peaking at over 1.4 bar and cutting sometimes

any help would be much appreciated as im still a turbo rookie

What type of ebc is it?

I have a Greddy Profec B II i'm going to be installing soon, and I found the manual really handy in explaining all the settings (obviously not in what they should be) but in relation to each other.

For example mine says if you're getting boost spikes is commonly due to the START BOOST setting being to close to the SET setting. (i.e. if you set the solenoid not to open until there's 1.2 bar behind it, then there will be a spike, however if you set it start opening at say 0.8 bar the controller has a much better chance of controlling the boost) and finding the right settings takes time and very incremental adjustments.

also the settings are a percentage of solenoid duty not the turbo.

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