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Perhaps just get a proper mechanic who is good with Nissan autos (they were more or less the same across all the RWD, FWD, 4WD cars at that time, even if they were actually different boxes) to give it a good going over. He might be able to plug in a Consult or other scan tool and find out if it's got some fault codes. Otherwise, my approach to the problem if not liking the way the auto was workign behind my RB20 turbo, was to drop it on the workshop floor and put in the manual box that it really needed. That solved all the auto problems. -
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Gotcha, I mean that is at least good to hear. Are there signs, or troubleshooting tips to make sure the transmission is operating properly? -
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I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either. That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much. It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak. Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
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