Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm upgrading my trans cooler and I'm wondering if r34's have a thermostat on them already so I can just take the hoses off the stock one and put them on the new one. If it doesn't have one what would you guys recommend for one ? Preferably something not too pricey..

Also is the plumbing for the trans cooler just 1 line from the box to the cooler then 1 line back or is it connected to anything else ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated ! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455375-r34-gtt-auto-trans-thermostat-help/
Share on other sites

No thermostat stock, generally you need to leave the fluid going through the radiator on a road car.

I run a $30 inline transmission thermostat off ebay, the blue ones. You will likely see them if you look through. They are 10mm fittings so you may need to muck around with the 8mm lines to get it to fit.

A trans cooler can never be too large, and it needs to be after the radiator outlet and thermostat. You will need to work out which line is pumping out and which is the return without making a massive mess preferably. :P

R34s have a small external trans cooler. I would expect that there's no thermostat involved because it's not very large. You could probably double or triple its size on a car being worked hard without too much problem, unless you end up driving it around gently in cold weather.

The question of whether you actually CAN run a thermostat in that line is another problem. I don't know if the cooler line runs the total flow of some circuit or if it's just a bypass. If it's not a bypass in it's own right, then a thermostat in that line would need to have a bypass in it to return flow when closed.

Hi,

I'm upgrading my trans cooler and I'm wondering if r34's have a thermostat on them already so I can just take the hoses off the stock one and put them on the new one. If it doesn't have one what would you guys recommend for one ? Preferably something not too pricey..

Also is the plumbing for the trans cooler just 1 line from the box to the cooler then 1 line back or is it connected to anything else ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated !

Something else - normally the radiator . This helps to bring the auto up to temp quickly from a cold start. I would guess temps are normally high where you live so a thermostat may not be necessary. If you are keen you could install a temp gauge for a while and see what you get.

No need for an inline thermostat with autos unless you live where it is really cold

If you do fit one make sure it has a bypass until it warms up otherwise you'll starve the rear planetry of oil and damage it

Fitted my stand alone davies craig 679 and driven it with no problems in 6-10deg weather every morning. It is placed behind the grill and takes roughly 10min for the trans to go into lockup if driving like a normal person on 60-80k roads. When the weather starts to get colder if I notice any adverse affecs I will add a plate that can sit over it and shield it from air. It got rid of all flairing inbetween gears and shifts better than before. (Could just be masking another problem)

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys. But as this is a daily and gets used in mornings when it's fairly cold I'd like to be able to get it to temperature quicker and I'm not a big fan of cooler covers. Also since I'm doing a shift kit, trans temp gauge and trans cooler I'd like to do it properly and add the thermostat while everything's pulled off.

I'm slightly confused with the plumbing of the stock cooler but. Is it not just a straight line from the tranny to the cooler then a line straight back to the tranny ? Or does it connect to the Intercooler as well somewhere along the line ?

Ah that's what I wasn't sure about. Cheers for that guys. Also cheapest I can find an external thermal bypass is like $50+. Is there any thermostat from Supercheap or something I could use ? If so what one would you recommend and does anyone know what's the minimum temperature for safe performance and for the thermostat to open up ?

Cheers

Cheers for that

Also reading the description the Inputs and outputs seem a little small in diamiter. Won't that restrict flow?

And while I'm here I'm looking to install an oil temp gauge and I need a housing for the temperature sensor. Would you happen to know where to get one ?

The hosing for the Davies Craig kit I bought looks pretty wide so I just wasn't sure. And good idea with the bung on the sump but I'd like to do that as a last resort

3/8 is loose on the 679. They are thick lines, that's all.

I believe Scotty was talking about a temp gauge in the last auto thread, using a sensor adaptor for the 3/8 lines.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...