Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 15/06/2015 at 3:07 AM, Anfanee said:

Ill race you Pete,

Who will have it home first?

Probably you.

Sadface.

Race, the 34s are too farkin heavy to push, you win, lol

You will notice I try not to guess when I will get anything done anymore BUT by the end of the week I will be driving down the Highway, looking for adventure :)

Hope you get yours back real soon , I miss my spirited drives, it is boring without it :/

  On 15/06/2015 at 5:35 AM, Hadouken said:

Tell more about leak

I tried to add the Video they sent but it would not load on SAU , maybe this laptop as I have a lot of trouble with it ?

It was at the top of the radiator, were the orange hose is clamped on, they had it under 20psi pressure to try and find it on Saturday, but it did not show up. They did it again today and there it was, pissing out ??

I do not understand that and wonder if all of that pressure did not cause the leak at the radiator, you would think if it was going to show up it would have done so when they first applied the pressure to the system, but cars ?

So I guess it comes down to when the car is being driven again or on the Dyno when they are doing the tune ?

post-52098-0-26409100-1434348033_thumb.jpg

Well at least it isn't disappearing into the motor. That would be suck.

Also metal and heat are interesting in their own way. But surely there would be a green/white stain down the radiator or at least at the bottom.

I'm glad they found it though.

I will wait until it has been driven before I get excited about the leak being found, it sucks being a pessimist :/

I was hoping to get the Dyno info today, maybe tomorrow. I thought it was done last week but they said it had to go back on again, not sure if it is on the Dyno ATM or not ?

It sucks waiting :/

  On 15/06/2015 at 9:40 AM, XGTRX said:

Post the video on youtube and link it. Come on I have gone through a tonne of popcorn waiting for this.

haha, it just shows a pressured leak on the Orange hose for about 4 seconds but I will try on my PC as my the laptop is shit :(

No luck with the PC, never posted a vid on youtube :/

Fired off a few emails asking when the tune will be finished and since everything else has been fixed, it is only the FINAL TUNE to be done, should be interesting to see if the 3.5" Dump & Cat can pick up 14KWs to nudge it over 400KW, BUT more importantly, if it feels any different to drive :/

3 months just fly by when you are having fun :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...