Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

V8's are overrated, Just set that RB up properly, look at the results with FP turbo's, an FP35 combo would give you what you want both response and top end with right housing, just look at 34GeeTee's results with only a FP3076 on an RB25, he got 390kw's with big mid range, with a 3.2L and FP35 it could be a perfect match...

The only way I will know is when the next work is done and there are results to compare, main test is driving it.

The Skyline is something that gets into your blood , why, farked if I really know ???????????

Had a look at the FP3582 and 3586 if these are the right 35 models @ 75Lb/min as to the PT6262 @ 74Lb/min.

What is the main difference with the FP and PT Turbos , they seem similar?

Who knows :P

I reckon enjoy the car for a bit, no more thinking about mods!! Then get the car looked at by DVS or whoever and go from there.

I do enjoy it, but it is not finished and I was always going to do the surge tank and pod cover, just adding the flex tune , well not adding it, I thought it was getting done with the build :)

ok - I want to see a vid of this launching. Did they setup launch control?

Good point, I think the Haltech Plat/Pro has that function, has to be better than some of my efforts, haha

When it is done I will do a Vid of a launch, have to give you blokes a laugh after all of this crap :)

Would it really need it? being a street car and such a responsive setup

I do not think it matters if a car is responsive or not to have launch control, they have it on the GT-Rs and they are very responsive.

I see it is easy enough for a mechanic to set it up, so maybe :)

Does it stay active all the time or is there a button/switch to activate it?

Its not hard to launch a gtr

Just get the revs up you want, I get the feel the clutch is engaging, let go and away you go :)

Thought it might be interesting to see the difference ?

The key is to use the handbrake and clutch to pre load the drivetrain so you dont "shock" it upon take off

Thats what I said I do, I feel the clutch engaging before I take off.

Listened to blokes saying take it to 7000rpm and step off, no thanks! I will make it as easy as I can on the driveline :)

I take it to 7krpm sometimes more depending how sticky the bitumen is

This was when I first bought the car, if I did not do 7k it went nowhere.

I do around 5k now and that seems pretty good, I also have AD08Rs on and they are pretty soft

haha what they did setup launch control - It sits there in your power band and lets your boost build and then load it up and release.

That is why new GTR's have it as well as all super cars.

That because they are basically autos, you know, so the launch doesn't rely on driver skill. He he.

Would rather have a skyline auto, big stall with a trans-brake. :D

He already knows the answer. He is just ignoring it. An engine is just an air pump. His results are on par with a majority of other results using the same turbo on 3l+ capacity but somehow he believes it should be different. Maybe some fairy dust and a happy dyno is what he needs.

Have u had a car with a restricted turbine that caused boost to drop as peters did?

No issues with mine holding boost with a similar size turbine wheel.

post-11223-0-55842900-1435914348_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had never actually looked into it, but aren't onboard compressors a thing in trucks?
    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...