Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If it's the turbo selection that is causing these issues.... Everything else is irrelevant. See what the new tuner says.

You're dreaming its not out of puff & i don't know how you're jumping to that conclusion?! As history repeats you can bet these blokes haven't done their job properly AGAIN! Odds are the boost control hasn't been played with properly or they have piss weak springs in the wastegates. But falling on its ass like that at 5500 isn't showing the 6262 being all in IMO pretty sure itd taper off more gradually then just drop off the planet like that. It is a 705hp turbo FFS and hes using over 500 of it currently.
  • Like 4

You're dreaming its not out of puff & i don't know how you're jumping to that conclusion?! As history repeats you can bet these blokes haven't done their job properly AGAIN! Odds are the boost control hasn't been played with properly or they have piss weak springs in the wastegates. But falling on its ass like that at 5500 isn't showing the 6262 being all in IMO pretty sure itd taper off more gradually then just drop off the planet like that. It is a 705hp turbo FFS and hes using over 500 of it currently.

Thats your conclusion.

Thats your conclusion.

While I don't think that turbo is necessarily the best option for this setup, I tend to agree that the turbo is not the most likely cause of what is being seen. Again a shame that there appears to not be better communication from the previous tuner.

  • Like 1

how does it go starting at low temp?

Is that not the reason xklaba didn't take his?

Never had an issue. Even down at Cootamunda in the middle of winter, left outside at the hotel. That was bloody cold that morning too.

Get the tuner to do a PROPER cold start.

The problem I have is my car was tuned to in summer where the mournings are still over 15deg so setting it up for 0 deg is a guess at best, it starts 6 deg with a bit of whinding, less then 10 seconds

It just wasn't looking like starting and at 5:30am with my fuel pump I didn't want to sit there whinding for however long it would have taking to start upsetting my already dickhead neighbours

I also have cold Denso race plugs which wouldn't cold starts

You're dreaming its not out of puff & i don't know how you're jumping to that conclusion?! As history repeats you can bet these blokes haven't done their job properly AGAIN! Odds are the boost control hasn't been played with properly or they have piss weak springs in the wastegates. But falling on its ass like that at 5500 isn't showing the 6262 being all in IMO pretty sure itd taper off more gradually then just drop off the planet like that. It is a 705hp turbo FFS and hes using over 500 of it currently.

Maybe, would be pretty disappointed if the workshop didn't sort that out.

And boost can drop like that if the the rear is beyond its VE especially if manifold pressures were to rise and this would obviously crack open the gate amongst other things. I still think the .82/62 rear is way too small for a 3.2.

Pete, seriously....Don't worry about all this response rubbish, just go and buy yourself a GT42 and be done with it. Rev the f@$king thing past 3000 and be happy with the face stretch when it comes on. Been done hundreds of times before and it just works.

  • Like 1

Fair enough.

Now, I need availability near my work or home.....

or, stick with 98.

I know what you mean, I would have to drive about 200Klm to get it and it would be just about 3/4 empty when I got home.

Different deal if you are doing something special with it, fill a few cans. Thats were the flex fuel sensor will come in, use it when it suites you :yes:

I so agree

Maybe, would be pretty disappointed if the workshop didn't sort that out.
And boost can drop like that if the the rear is beyond its VE especially if manifold pressures were to rise and this would obviously crack open the gate amongst other things. I still think the .82/62 rear is way too small for a 3.2.
Pete, seriously....Don't worry about all this response rubbish, just go and buy yourself a GT42 and be done with it. Rev the f@$king thing past 3000 and be happy with the face stretch when it comes on. Been done hundreds of times before and it just works.

I so agree

Pete, seriously....Don't worry about all this response rubbish, just go and buy yourself a GT42 and be done with it. Rev the f@$king thing past 3000 and be happy with the face stretch when it comes on. Been done hundreds of times before and it just works.

No worries mate, all good.

Had a 80klm drive this morning to get the cobwebs out, good stuff!

Take car to Jez

End thread

Yep well this thread will only ever be more supposition until the car goes to another dyno to find out what is really going on. At least if it goes to DVS Performance he can read some of the history behind it here.

Yep well this thread will only ever be more supposition until the car goes to another dyno to find out what is really going on. At least if it goes to DVS Performance he can read some of the history behind it here.

SORRY, it cannot be over until the " Final Tune " after this 3.2 build is finished, so hopefully, very soon :)

Probably will not be too much KW difference but might change were it starts kicking in ?

And boost can drop like that if the the rear is beyond its VE especially if manifold pressures were to rise and this would obviously crack open the gate amongst other things. I still think the .82/62 rear is way too small for a 3.2.

Pete, seriously....Don't worry about all this response rubbish, just go and buy yourself a GT42 and be done with it. Rev the f@$king thing past 3000 and be happy with the face stretch when it comes on. Been done hundreds of times before and it just works.

Never heard of an external wastegate opening due to exhaust pressure tbh, I'd consider it a design issue if it did - by function definition they are meant to block any flow until the reference pressures met targets - especially if it had both ports utilised.

In regards to VE dropping, that's just going to mean boost pressure will go up for a given airflow - the 62mm hot side is proven to flow much much more than Pete's setup is asking of it... so while I agree it's hotside is way too small for that setup (.8x twin scroll 62mm on a 3.2 - what the actual f**k? I didn't realise...) IMHO I think that explanation doesn't add up. In saying that, it's making good power and if Pete is happy with it then really all that really seems to be needed is making sure the mechanical and tune situation is on point and enjoy.

Things don't seem to be necessarily optimal, but I'm not expecting to see miraculous improvements in power - perhaps some improvement in power delivery if it turns out the intake cam proves to be excessively retarded in practice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...