Jump to content
SAU Community

Educated Guess At The Final Tune Results

Nismo 3.2ish
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Things don't seem to be necessarily optimal, but I'm not expecting to see miraculous improvements in power - perhaps some improvement in power delivery if it turns out the intake cam proves to be excessively retarded in practice.

I also do not expect any real over all power improvements. What I have is plenty.

What I would like to know is, if you have your intake side retarded by 3 or 4 degrees and you advance it 3 or 4 degrees , there is 6 or 8 degrees difference, what would this do for the low end power gain at lower rpms.

  • Replies 2.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

XKLABA
XKLABA

They lock them so no one can see their tunes, they did the same thing to my FC and Scott was able to get around it I would have expected more down low then that, you need to get someone else to tune

Nismo 3.2ish
Nismo 3.2ish

Here is the only one I have so far, boring

Nismo 3.2ish
Nismo 3.2ish

It car came up great, only trouble is I have to wear sunnies outside the car, great job but mow I have to try and keep it looking the same , pain in the arse , lol Had a quick run when the car wa

Posted Images

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

Never heard of an external wastegate opening due to exhaust pressure tbh, I'd consider it a design issue if it did - by function definition they are meant to block any flow until the reference pressures met targets - especially if it had both ports utilised.

If he is bleeding off a 12-14lb spring and has a higher than expected exhaust manifold pressure at wot due to a restrictive rear then the gate will crack open, no question. This always happens in this scenario, not the first time and it won't be the last.

With a larger higher flowing rear there will be a lot less manifold pressure at the same boost pressure, even running a 1.15 AR at 30psi I would expect to see less manifold pressure due to the lack of back pressure.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

Just curious, if it was getting valve float in the top end, would you/could you tune around it by dropping the boost and retarding the cams?

The dyno curve looks like it gets a wiggle on a touch, maybe not significant?

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Just curious, if it was getting valve float in the top end, would you/could you tune around it by dropping the boost and retarding the cams?

The dyno curve looks like it gets a wiggle on a touch, maybe not significant?

It won't be floating. I run the same cams, springs and retainers and have given my setup 30 psi.

Not sure how much more boost you want to pull out of it. It's dropping to 18 psi as is.

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

I also do not expect any real over all power improvements. What I have is plenty.

What I would like to know is, if you have your intake side retarded by 3 or 4 degrees and you advance it 3 or 4 degrees , there is 6 or 8 degrees difference, what would this do for the low end power gain at lower rpms.

Theoretically yes but really this is usually the last thing you do after the rest of the set up is A OK.
jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
Posted

It won't be floating. I run the same cams, springs and retainers and have given my setup 30 psi.

Not sure how much more boost you want to pull out of it. It's dropping to 18 psi as is.

I think he was more leading towards that being a possible reason its like it is.
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

How's the water Pete?

When is it booked in for the next tune?

Hi Mark, waters all good :)

Just waiting for some other work to be finished in the shop, not much use leaving it there until he can work on it , maybe another week or 2. Not just the tune to do and I can still use the car while I am waiting :)

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've got to say I would be pretty unhappy with that boost drop.

Kind of like getting married to a hot Virgin, and then being told you have to use a condom for the rest of your life......

Yeah a bit of bummer :(

I will still take the Virgin , condom and all :)

sky30 Mentor

sky30

Posted
Posted

If it's the turbo selection that is causing these issues.... Everything else is irrelevant. See what the new tuner says.

Fairly narrow minded, all you can say is its the turbo. Its rated for over 700hp ffs, if there are no other restirictions it should acheive close to that.

Can u tell me why my engine with a .82 rear housing does not have this issue?

  • Like 1
Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

I am starting to agree with the plausibility of his theory - I wouldn't go so far as to say that's the issue, but.

You have a .82 open housing, a .84 open housing is a different beast and in most cases I would expect it to be more comparable in to a .6x open housing which would make people shit themselves if it was said that someone was going to put on a 3.2 litre aiming for 400kw+ on petrol.

When I first heard about this I thought the hotside was going to be too small and that was before I learnt it was a small divided hotside on it, I've never thought about or had to deal with a bad turbo match like this causing excess back pressure - I like to think all the things I have been involved with have quite well matched turbos and as such exhaust manifold pressure has tended to be sane and never thought about the effect on the waste gate but the more I think about it the more it makes sense. Always nice to learn something :)

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Fairly narrow minded, all you can say is its the turbo. Its rated for over 700hp ffs, if there are no other restirictions it should acheive close to that.

Can u tell me why my engine with a .82 rear housing does not have this issue?

Hope your right :)

I spoke to the bloke at Precision Turbo and he said it "should" not loose more than 50HP with the 3.2 . With some blokes taking these turbos up to 740HP with varied sized motors ? ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
    • GTSBoy
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • corey2
      Hello from Sydney

      By corey2 · Posted

      This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • Vee37
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Vee37 · Posted

      As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • MBS206
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
×
×
  • Create New...