Jump to content
SAU Community

Educated Guess At The Final Tune Results

Nismo 3.2ish
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

XKLABA
XKLABA

They lock them so no one can see their tunes, they did the same thing to my FC and Scott was able to get around it I would have expected more down low then that, you need to get someone else to tune

Nismo 3.2ish
Nismo 3.2ish

Here is the only one I have so far, boring

Nismo 3.2ish
Nismo 3.2ish

It car came up great, only trouble is I have to wear sunnies outside the car, great job but mow I have to try and keep it looking the same , pain in the arse , lol Had a quick run when the car wa

Posted Images

GTofuS-T Grand Master

GTofuS-T

Posted
Posted

tbh... your locksmith analogy isn't correct... it's more aligned with software, you pay for Windows 7, Microsoft doesn't give you free access to mess with the code to make changes and render their product unusable. anyway...

i'm newer to all this than even you, but is it possible when they've taken it off the dyno something wasn't reconnected/tightened/untightened? if you consider the symptom of spluttering over 6,000kms (and disregarding the tune) what might cause this? coils? boost leak?

Just a late night snack...

  • Like 1
XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

He is at Gosford and a couple of blokes say he is pretty good and tunes a bit on the safe side and that is OK for me.Has a RWD Dyno , are these OK for AWD cars, guess so ?

At the moment I just want this tune to work properly, so I can drive the car and see if it is what I want before thinking of changing it :)

RWD dyno isn't an issue, he will just rip out the front prop shaft
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

tbh... your locksmith analogy isn't correct... it's more aligned with software, you pay for Windows 7, Microsoft doesn't give you free access to mess with the code to make changes and render their product unusable. anyway...

i'm newer to all this than even you, but is it possible when they've taken it off the dyno something wasn't reconnected/tightened/untightened? if you consider the symptom of spluttering over 6,000kms (and disregarding the tune) what might cause this? coils? boost leak?

Just a late night snack...

Could be as simple as a loose connection or hose off .

I have extended my stay in Sydney to take the car to them on Monday morning before my drive home, I am worried about making it worse before they can have a chance to have a look .I know there was NO problem on the Dyno and they did heaps of runs ?

But I think you have to sign something when you use Microsoft's products saying you understand what their user policy is before you can use it in the first place and you cannot continue unless you tick the box. BUT I am not too sure about any of it.

I do not mind not being able to use their tune, as long as another one can be installed and over ride the tune I do not want, that is if I decide to go elsewhere in the future ????.

If this was possible, I wonder if you can swap or change back to the old tune if you find out the new tune is not as good as the first one, getting expense now, haha

I am just trying to find out what my options are in the future, hate being in the dark on a subject I know nothing about :/

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

while I'm not OK with what the shop charges, there is no doubt they are among the best in the business. Take it back and ask them to get it running properly. If the issue relates to their tune or any work they have done, it is their responsibility to fix at their cost.

Of course, if they convince you it was something else that would be at your cost.

And yes, PFC has always had a password option, and almost nobody uses it. I would discuss with them to have them remove it. A tune is just fuel and timing and there will be no magical intellectual property they have to protect, and of course if they say they are worried about you tuning it and blaming them they can use the built in tune compare tool to make sure your current tune is the same one it left the shop with; they will of course have kept a copy. It will cost you substantially more to take it to anyone else to tune from scratch if you need the tune tidied up for any reason.

One last point; there is absolutely nothing a tuner can do to increase response once the mechanical package is in place. They just get to choose how close to optimal power they make at each map point, weighing it against the risk of pinging and killing the engine.

  • Like 1
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

All good Tuners pwd protect the ECU.

Most will give you the pwd on request but all liability is null an void at the same time.

Surely you can understand why this is. (Zebra said as much earlier in the thread)

When your tuner plugs into your Haltech ecu and if it has changed it will provide a warning msg.

You would think this would be enough for them - it is not.

A lot of people when they blow their engine up blame the build or the tune. And they can be spot on too....

Some do it purely to protect their so called "secrets". Which they may have spent a lot of time or R+D getting it spot on. or they could have nothing special and don't want anyone to know that.

Wait your warranty period on the build and then do as you please.

Woops - Duncan's got it while I was typing.

Mostly it's about keeping your business.

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 1
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

RWD dyno isn't an issue, he will just rip out the front prop shaft

Read up on it, some say there is a little difference in the dyno reading but nothing really. Who cares it the tune is a good one :)

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Read up on it, some say there is a little difference in the dyno reading but nothing really. Who cares it the tune is a good one :)

For tuning purposes 2wd or awd doesn't matter. The numbers will be a little different but they are just numbers.

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

while I'm not OK with what the shop charges, there is no doubt they are among the best in the business. Take it back and ask them to get it running properly. If the issue relates to their tune or any work they have done, it is their responsibility to fix at their cost.

Of course, if they convince you it was something else that would be at your cost.

And yes, PFC has always had a password option, and almost nobody uses it. I would discuss with them to have them remove it. A tune is just fuel and timing and there will be no magical intellectual property they have to protect, and of course if they say they are worried about you tuning it and blaming them they can use the built in tune compare tool to make sure your current tune is the same one it left the shop with; they will of course have kept a copy. It will cost you substantially more to take it to anyone else to tune from scratch if you need the tune tidied up for any reason.

One last point; there is absolutely nothing a tuner can do to increase response once the mechanical package is in place. They just get to choose how close to optimal power they make at each map point, weighing it against the risk of pinging and killing the engine.

All Good, I think the car is running pretty good, it has good response since the build and nice to drive. Gave it a little touch up until it played up and I think it will be a very good car for all sorts of driving. The power is very linear and comes on early.

My idea of what the car would do after the build fell a bit short but I am happy with the result :)

I understand about the tune being protected and do not mind having a password protection on it but I want the password. As long as I can have a different tuner put a new tune in at some time in the future "if I want to" I understand that once someone else touches their tune the warranty goes out the window.

As you blokes know I live a fair distance from Sydney and I might find a new shop closer to me in the future and would like to have the password "OR" know that a separate tune can be done without accessing the original tune??

This below is just a matter of interest, it might be a silly question, but not the first one I have asked on SAU :)

CAN THERE BE 2 DIFFERENT TUNES ON YOUR ECU ?? If so can you switch tunes if you feel like it ?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

PFC doesn't support multiple tunes, but it is easily uploaded or downloaded to a PC via Datalogit, which cost about $300. So there you would save the old tune then make whatever changes you need.

luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

All good Tuners pwd protect the ECU.

Most will give you the pwd on request but all liability is null an void at the same time.

Surely you can understand why this is. (Zebra said as much earlier in the thread)

When your tuner plugs into your Haltech ecu and if it has changed it will provide a warning msg.

You would think this would be enough for them - it is not.

A lot of people when they blow their engine up blame the build or the tune. And they can be spot on too....

Some do it purely to protect their so called "secrets". Which they may have spent a lot of time or R+D getting it spot on. or they could have nothing special and don't want anyone to know that.

Wait your warranty period on the build and then do as you please.

Woops - Duncan's got it while I was typing.

Mostly it's about keeping your business.

I have a good tuner.

My haltech is not password protected.

I go back because I appreciate their good work.

  • Like 2
luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

Also, coughing in higher RPM, could be a dud coil pack(that's why new parts generally have warranty).

Could be a fouled plug.

Could be a slightly larger gap.

Either way, it will be sorted.

  • Like 1
Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also, coughing in higher RPM, could be a dud coil pack(that's why new parts generally have warranty).

Could be a fouled plug.

Could be a slightly larger gap.

Either way, it will be sorted.

Yeah mate, could be a simple thing and I am not really worried. I will take the car to them on Monday and I am sure they will sort it out, these blokes know what they are doing , all good :)

The water thing seems to be sorted, no more water lose, they said they could not find anything wrong and I wonder if it was leaking from the bleeder, that was the only thing I noticed where there could have been a problem and the only thing that was touched to make any difference??

But it is nice to drive, Paul wants me to run it on 85, but we all know he is not a petrol head , but for me, getting the stuff is the problem :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...