Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car is in AUS, so not importing but I suspect the people with the right knowledge will be in this forum. As the title suggests, I've got a copy of the de-reg certificate and it supports the klms on the car. Is there any need to get a JOC check done? Is it possible fake a de-reg certificate? I've only seen a jpg that has been emailed to me.

Many thanks.

Yes it easy and very common to fake a dereg cert, only the last 2 time the car has been deregistered are recorded and what dealers have been doing is winding back the kms and then registering and deregistering the car twice in order to make the kms all line up

  • Like 1
  • 7 months later...

Yes it easy and very common to fake a dereg cert, only the last 2 time the car has been deregistered are recorded and what dealers have been doing is winding back the kms and then registering and deregistering the car twice in order to make the kms all line up

Digging up an old thread.

Brett, if the above is the case, and if a seller/dealer/whoever says the car was not bought at auction, what other checks can you do?

Getting a dereg certificate from the likes of JOC would be pointless and a waste of money, if they're already supplying one with the car, and you're simply going to get the same thing.

and if a seller/dealer/whoever says the car was not bought at auction

They all say it wasn't bought at auction... it's the new line that comes after:

- One owner, LOW KMs, No accidents

- Owner was a little old Japanese lady, never drove the car

- Little old lady lost the logbooks - whoops!

- Japan is a small country, they don't drive far

- Japanese have rough hands so all that wear on the wheel/shift is normal

- Japanese don't like to put servicing stickers on their cars because they look ugly

- Oh and it wasn't bought at auction

Talk to any well reputed broker (J-Spec, Iron Chef, Prestige Motorsport) about how hard it is to buy vehicles in Japan through the local dealer networks. The chances an imported car was not bought at auction either directly by the importer or by their chosen Japanese exporter are extremely slim - buying at auction is too cheap and convenient.

If they can't supply the auction sheet AND de-registration certificate, see if you can get hold of them yourself or find another seller that can.

They all say it wasn't bought at auction... it's the new line that comes after:

- One owner, LOW KMs, No accidents

- Owner was a little old Japanese lady, never drove the car

- Little old lady lost the logbooks - whoops!

- Japan is a small country, they don't drive far

- Japanese have rough hands so all that wear on the wheel/shift is normal

- Japanese don't like to put servicing stickers on their cars because they look ugly

- Oh and it wasn't bought at auction

Talk to any well reputed broker (J-Spec, Iron Chef, Prestige Motorsport) about how hard it is to buy vehicles in Japan through the local dealer networks. The chances an imported car was not bought at auction either directly by the importer or by their chosen Japanese exporter are extremely slim - buying at auction is too cheap and convenient.

If they can't supply the auction sheet AND de-registration certificate, see if you can get hold of them yourself or find another seller that can.

Any advice on how i can look up past auction cars?

Get both and get originals from either from JOC or Japanese History Check (for the auction sheet).

Last month I paid a deposit on an Evo V only to find out that the seller's auction sheet from Japanese History Check had been doctored. The photo shopped auction sheet had 84k. I sourced my own copy from JHC to find the car had 104k and details of the entire front end being cut and shut.

Prior to the Evo V I'd paid deposits on two other Evo 8MR's that also had wound back odometers. Over 100,000k in one case. To the seller's credit they all returned the deposits and should take the dealers to court (JOC have info on their page of recent litigation that was successful).

Do not buy an import car without both original copies of the de-reg cert and auction sheet. If you can't source it walk away imho and import yourself through Iron Chef, J-Spec, etc.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
    • It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
    • I just try to entirely stay away from ladder now unless it's something basic maintained by electricians. Even then and to your point, it mostly ends up being blocks I wrote in structured text.  PLC's are slowly going towards C, C++ and C#. I just wish Allen-Bradley would jump on the bandwagon. 
    • All of them are missing. You do not get much done with just AND, OR and NOT unfortunately. Ecumaster for example has a text based editor with at least 60+ math and logic instructions. 
×
×
  • Create New...