Bonnet Pop V36

[AikenLugonn]

Howdy, have had the bonnet pop function kick in (no pedestrian involved), where the rear of the onnet pops up. How do you reset it so the bonnet goes back in place? I did search the forums but could only find a subject on the light coming on in the dash.

[AikenLugonn]

Okay estimate from my local mechanic is $2.5K for parts, plus labour. And that's an honest assessment, as he can't even do the work. Not happy (obviously).

[AsM]

yeah its something like an airbags deploying and once deployed you'll need new parts replacements. Shocking it did that on its own w/o any impact...

[AikenLugonn]

There was an impact but only to driver's side wheel. No impact to bumper bar let alone bonnet! Still enough to trigger it though.

[AikenLugonn]

After a fair amount of reading, this appears to be a relatively common issue for cars that have this technology. I assume that given the car comes with it, replacing it is required, despite it being an uncommon technology in Australia?

[AsM]

have a read of this mate similar issue but on a 370z and hes put together all the parts list

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-warranty-scheduled-maintenance-servicing-repairs/49061-370z-my-10-pop-up-hood-light-illuminating-after-frontal-impact.html

[The Max]

Apologies for once again resurrecting this thread but I need to correct the information that I read in that 370Z link, as well as a couple other sites.

It's not the IPDM that needs replacing, as I had read in an R35 UK forum. There is another module, which lives somewhere in the back of the V36, similar in functionality to the SRS Airbag control module. This is the control module the dude in the 370Z link above was referring to. In the case of the 370Z, I believe it's a little easier to get to, as it lives somewhere under the dash, I believe.

I'm going to embark on my project of installing a mini computer as my GPS and audio centre soon, in which case I expect to also take the opportunity to find out where the diagram from Nissan is actually pointing to, as it's hard to tell if they're talking about somewhere towards the rear of the cabin or in the boot space.

The good news is that once I do find it, I'll be able to remove the EEPROM from the module, read the contents, send the data to a mob in the UK called TachoSoft (www.tachosoft.com), who seem to know which part of the code is the crash data that needs to be erased, as I honestly cannot be bothered wasting however many hundreds of dollars on a circuit that otherwise is still likely to be in good working order. I'll be sure to keep my bonnet open when I plug the battery back in after it's all said and done, just in case. :P

[DashyyPC]

I know of 3 v36 coupes in brisbane that have been written off from this.
Not many places are able to fix it or even want to. Costs around 5k to be done right via a shop.

In saying that my friend had this happen after hitting a dog. Happened JAN 2017. He did not get his car back from repairs till MAY 2017. Was an absolute joke of a repair time. Havent seen anyone else repair theirs. 

[The Max]

I can imagine the cost of the module would be pretty hefty. Add to that the cost of the rams and all the labour involved, plus the sparkie or dealership to do the CAN diagnostics reset after the fact, I can see why it would add up so quickly.

Well, screw them! I'll happily be the guinea pig on this one. After all, I've wasted $500 already on a new IPDM, inherently turning my original one into a spare (since I can't be bothered changing them back over again). What's another $50 on a bit of EEPROM code to flash? Lucky for me, I've already got the hardware to do all this stuff myself, so no further investment there.

Hopefully I'll get onto it soon and I'll put the information out for everyone else to take advantage of as well. There's no reason why we should be so wasteful over the idea of a pedestrian slamming their head on one's bonnet. Yes, I am a horrible human being at times. It is what it is. :)

[The Max]

OK guys (and Happy New Year). It took me a while but that's only because I'm on break from work, finally!

In short, I fixed it.

In long, our V36 has a Pop-Up Bonnet module hiding in the boot, immediately behind the back seat (see photo). You need to remove the false flooring to get to it but once it's uncovered, it's easy to remove. One 10mm bolt holds it in place. Unbolt, unplug and remove the two philips head screws bolting the mounting bracket to the module casing.

With a T15 Torx driver, remove the four screws holding the back cover down and remove the housing. Then you can remove the rear plate which had the Torx screws going through it and there you will find the 24C08 EEPROM that needs to have its crash data wiped.

Easiest way to do this is with an EEPROM programmer that can do ICSP (In-Circuit Serial Programming). I already had one in my toolkit from a long while ago for past projects. If you're interested in the one I use, it can be found here: https://www.reveltronics.com/en/products/revelprog-is-serial-memory-programmer-usb

I bought it with the 8-pin in-circuit IC clip required for the job. You can also do the chip work by desoldering the IC from the PCB but you need a decent hot air SMD rework station and even then, Bosch use an adhesive to keep the chip in place, so it's a bit of a bastard to get it off the board, with the confidence that you won't destroy any of the solder pads. In the end, why make it harder for yourself? ICSP is the way to go here!

As this was my first time wiping crash data from any automotive device, I was not sure what to look for in the hex code. So, I visited another site, www.tachosoft.com, who sell airbag reset hex data for a wide variety of vehicles, and yes, they do also have listed the Nissan Skyline V36 (not as an Infiniti) with the JK40A Bosch module. I think it was around $40 for the service. I simply read the hex code in the EEPROM using my programmer, saved it to a file, uploaded it to their site (after paying up) and received the fixed file within seconds. Clearly there's some kind of known pattern which they are aware of and have it in a script to modify in your module's code.

I then wrote the newly modified hex code back to the EEPROM and verified the code once more for posterity. Put the module back together and back in the vehicle. No more permanent warning light on my dash, only for the first few seconds upon starting the car. Ran my Consult3+ tool to be sure and no DTCs were active, so you won't even need to visit a dealership to get any DTCs cleared for it.

I have checked the differences between the "crashed" code and the "clear" code. What I've found is that all they've done is erased (set to 0xFF) a small chunk of data just after the header, for all of about 176 bytes or so (see screenshot). Not much in it at all. And to think, I fixed it myself for $40, though if you include the cost of the programmer and in-circuit clip, you're looking at around another $180 or so. Even then, $220 is a small price to pay compared to the $2500 that some others have been quoted.

So, now you know what to do to solve your pop-up bonnet problems without forking out a massive wad of cash. Of course, if you're insured, may as well just let them deal with it but otherwise, I hope my experience helps you guys out.

Edited January 1, 2019 by The Max
Added HEX data comparison screenshot

[niZmO_Man]

Excellent work!

[Pete_Repeat]

Oh now this is not something I'm looking forward to. Had a minor bump and the pedestrian air bag went off. Minor cracking bar only. So anyone around Sydney had a workshop fix this that didn't take 5 months as mentioned above? Happy for a ride off but it's insured for 25k so surely Shannon's woukd ride it off. Hmmm. Hadn't realised the headaches with an import car until now.

[The Max]

Only reason why it took so long for me was because of Shannons themselves, not my trusted panelbeater.

That being said, the only thing he couldn't handle was the pop-up bonnet module, in order to erase the diagnostic code and I told him to leave it up to me instead, since I already have the necessary hardware to reset the module myself.

The repair will not be expensive enough to get it written off.

[Pete_Repeat]

Sorry I meant Shannon's wouldn't write it off. 

So the delay was from not using one of their prefered repairers or more to it? I'm afraid to lose my car for too long. Not that I can drive it as is.. Unless I took the air bags out and shut the bonnet (likely not legal and my insurance company are aware plus not sure if dummy supports are needed once the air bag struts are taken out..). 

Problem I have with their prefered repair place is that while they say it's a faster commence time, I won't have any opportunity to say anything once they have. So grin and bare the estimated time they give = hands tied.

[The Max]

And I'm saying of course Shannons would not write it off. The repair is not expensive enough to do so.

My repairer has a good relationship with Shannons but he is not preferred by them. The reason why Shannons took so long was because they had a massive backlog to get through at the time.

If you don't have a repairer you know and trust, you can talk to my guy and see what he thinks. Make your own judgement from there. Cullens Smash Repairs in Auburn.

[Pete_Repeat]

3 minutes ago, The Max said:

And I'm saying of course Shannons would not write it off. The repair is not expensive enough to do so.

My repairer has a good relationship with Shannons but he is not preferred by them. The reason why Shannons took so long was because they had a massive backlog to get through at the time.

If you don't have a repairer you know and trust, you can talk to my guy and see what he thinks. Make your own judgement from there. Cullens Smash Repairs in Auburn.

Great. Thanks for that. I will have a chat with them.

On another note, I bit the bullet and bought the Phoenix radio under the basis of a refund within 30 days of receiving it... So no pressure getting my car back now ?

[DashyyPC]

@Pete_Repeat

so many people doing this lately! 2 of my friends with Z's had this happen this week alone.
both have been quoted 8 weeks repair time as the module is from japan and insurance companies seem to take the cheapest way to freight shit here haha. 
Im not sure the process of a z is the same as a V/G

I found out that these cars only get written off from it when theyre insured for market value. Usually just due to the repair turn around According to Aaami. 
My 07 Coupe is agreed value of 28.5k so id hope it gets written off from something hahhaa.

On an illegal side note, I moved my 2 side sensors from the front bumper and mounted them onto the crash bar (i left the middle one in place)  I feel this will save headaches if i slightly bump something.

[The Max]

26 minutes ago, DashyyPC said:

so many people doing this lately! 2 of my friends with Z's had this happen this week alone.
both have been quoted 8 weeks repair time as the module is from japan and insurance companies seem to take the cheapest way to freight shit here haha. 
Im not sure the process of a z is the same as a V/G

Definitely the same process. The modules are still Bosch, albeit perhaps somewhat different programming and/or EEPROM IC used but it wouldn't be significantly different and the Tachsoft guys seem to support a wide range of modules. If you have the hardware, it's easy to fix within the space of 30 minutes.

I might reverse engineer the code in mine to see if there's a software method of switching this module off, as I think it's the biggest load of horseshit, in my opinion. Failing that, a couple of resistors and disconnecting the rams will certainly do the trick as well.

[Pete_Repeat]

Out of curiosity. If I pop the hood with the air bags deployed will I be able to remove the struts and put the bonnet down? I think they may be required for the multipoint anchorage so dummy struts would be needed but hoping they can just be removed. I understand legalities might be questionable.. But at least for the drive to get assessed. I'll check with the place first that they can assess with the air bag struts removed already however.

Edited April 9, 2019 by Pete_Repeat

[The Max]

I would leave everything in place. It's not ideal but when it happened to me, I just used some really fat cable ties to keep the bonnet tied down onto the rams as I drove over to my guy. The rams are a single-use item, so you can't compress them back down to allow the bonnet to close completely. It is what it is.

If you mess with anything that has deployed, that gives the insurance an excuse to screw you over. Don't give them any ammunition for excuses. Let them see what happened and why. Leave it to your repairer to put things back to normal after that.