Cvt Extroid (lloyd, Toroidal) 8-speed Gear Box Overheating & Servicing On 350gt-8 (pv35) Sedan

[PaulReeves.com - GPOWER.TV]

Who has serviced their Extroid Gear Box on their 350GT-8 model please?

Workshop Specifies transmission flush to be carried out at 80,000kms & mines already on 89,000kms.

Bought @ 71,500kms!

I took it to Wakefield Park Raceway last Sunday & each time on the 5th/6th lap it would disengage the flappy paddles & it would jump gear by itself when I was driving slowly into the pit lane.

It only stopped when I cooled it down on the back roads.

I thought I had stuffed it completely by going hard in 2nd gear on the last corner one time.

But it was mainly frying of the gear box I imagine.

Every time I go hard on the streets now to overtake, you would get that same metal mechanism smell come from the Extroid box.

Still works fine.

But I wondered has anyone fixed the overheating issue on theirs?

Does the transmission cooler go through the radiator for cooling?

Or its a stand alone cooling unit? (That stupid tiny oil cooler at the right front of the bumper)...

Also if you have serviced it.

Was it is required to be in a closed, dust-free envioronment like Justin of Nagoya Motors (Caringbah, NSW) says it has to be in?

Await your replies folks (if theres any out there with my troubles)...?

Edited May 16, 2015 by PaulReeves.com - GPOWER.TV

[sonicii]

Did you use a Nissan only CVT NS-2 Oil or an aftermarket equivalent?

Because I love & trust my RedLine oil & hope I could use their CVT Transmission range instead!!! ?

Await your replies folks (if theres any out there with my troubles)...?

I haven't had experience with working on this transmission.

But DO NOT use NS-2 fluid. This is for Nissan's xtronic (push belt) CVTs. Which are a completely different type of transmission to the extroid.

You must use Nissan KTF-1 fluid. Or an equivalent (if there is one??)

[Nightcrawler]

Sorry to tell you, but the GT8 CVT box is widely considered one of the biggest ever mistakes by Nissan. Once you break it (which doesn't sound far off), there is NO-ONE that can fix it. Many cars have been stripped and sold for parts once the CVT box develops ANY sort of fault - they are pretty much impossible to fix. One I was looking at buying a few years back developed some sensor, then belt faults, and the seller spent $3k and 4 weeks trying to problem solve it before giving up and binning the car. Thankfully prior to me taking delivery/paying for it.

If I were you I would be babying the thing until it dies, then either parting out the car, or going through the sucky process of fitting a 5 speed manual or the later auto box, and then suffering the extensive headaches that go along with either of those solutions.

And if you use anything but the Nissan CVT gearbox oil for your particular box (the oil alone costs $1k for a single change), you WILL completely fry your trans in no time.

[Leroy Peterson]

i have done a lot of research and info gathering regarding the CVT box.

use the dip-stick or drain plug to have a look at the condition of the oil. the oil is a light blue colour from the tin, i would think it would still retain a little blue tinge when in direct light.

There is no compatible oil other than the KTF-1 stuff. there are a number of threads on SAU regarding the oil and this gearbox. for extra info regarding the only workshop willing to touch it in the southern hemisphere, do a search.

otherwise, i have some CVT stuff for sale here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453809-y34-body-kit-extroid-cvt-suspension/#entry7479057

[Humbla]

Wow this sounds scary,glad I have an old series one with a manual box

that keeps going like a ripper,probly over 500000 is now amazing. :-)

[PaulReeves.com - GPOWER.TV]

Can I install a bigger oil cooler though to keep it as cool as possible when on the track?

Wish we had a Jap CVT Specialist on this Forum to ask! hehe

Edited May 16, 2015 by PaulReeves.com - GPOWER.TV

[sonicii]

nope.. Redline CVT is only suitable in place of 'NS-1, NS-2, NS-3 Nissan CVT Fluid, pt# 999MP-NS200P (Jatco JFE10E, JF010E, JF011E)(RE0F09A, B, 10A)'

How CVTs function can vary dramatically, so fluid designed for one type, can be completely unsuitable for another type. as is the case with a pushbelt vs toroidal CVT.

you also don't want to keep the transmission too cool, although in Australia, it probably won't be an issue.. in colder climates, overcooling can cause issues. Remember, transmissions are designed to work at a certain temperature, which is why you shouldn't thrash them when they are cold.

Edited April 7, 2015 by sonicii

[t5iv]

Best way to do is to remove the box and drop in an Auto with a shift kit or do a manual conversion.

If you wish to service the box, the theory is:

1) Drain fluid - easy

2) Flush and fill with KTF Fluid (8L req) and Just Jap stock it - exxy (expect $1k in fluid or thereabouts)

3) Reset the gearbox readings in the ECU using Consult III - this is essential and you need someone who is willing to mess around and get in there to fix it. C2 will not work and I have tried finding the gearbox using it.

When you look at $1k for fluid and $200 for someone to mess around on C3 for a few hours, makes more sense dropping an auto straight in. Will be what I do when my box goes.

[sonicii]

2) Flush and fill with KTF Fluid (8L req) and Just Jap stock it - exxy (expect $1k in fluid or thereabouts)

If you can afford to wait for it -

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/knd194/item/kle5100004/

probably expect another $150-200 or so for shipping of 2 tins.

[Leroy Peterson]

If you can afford to wait for it -

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/knd194/item/kle5100004/

probably expect another $150-200 or so for shipping of 2 tins.

have bought from there. late last year was around $850 delivered for 12L.

im not sure if swapping to normal auto has ever been done before. The Y34 owner who did it went RB25 Neo & auto at the same time, then sold it off. Theres also the choice between 4-speed and 5-speed autos (depending on what the box is off) and fingers crossed it comes with the trans ECU (and that it all works with your engine ECU). its a big gamble all up IMO, but i have a solid feeling an oil flush is not going to fix your problems.

so +1 to get rid of the CVT.

[PaulReeves.com - GPOWER.TV]

Thanks felas

But does anyone know if the front CVT oil cooler is a stand-alone unit or is cooled down by going through the radiator tanks?

Going for a 70km drive last night.

I carefully examined the 1st to 3rd gear changing up to 4000rpm.

I noticed that the 1st into 2nd gear only changes when it reaches 2000rpm now, wherease before it used to do it in the mid 1000's rpm.

I personally prefer it this way when not in manual mode anyway

And the 2nd gear around the 2500rpm mark + had a slight buckle in & out effect like you had a dinted rim, but the 3rd was fine.

I suspect this is because I had the rear tyres spinning in 2nd gear at Wakefield Park on the last corner when I planted my foot down on the 2nd lap.

So it's either I loosened the 2nd gear CVT bearings, Uni-Joint or the CV Joints could be playing a part what do you's reckon?

Edited May 16, 2015 by PaulReeves.com - GPOWER.TV

[nickcorr]

Hang on....

This is a CVT. It should not have gears when it is in auto mode. It is a Continuously Variable Transmission...

Should be a stepless surge with the engine staying at a single speed, usually peak torque, and the transmission doing the acceleration. Then once at cruise, the speed remaining constant but the revs dropping off as it slides into higher gearing.

Could your car already have had the CVT replaced?

[Leroy Peterson]

Check car nameplate. Gearbox section should say RE0 for cvt and RE4 or RE5 if AT.F4/5

My car was incorrectly listed as CVT at the auctions. Nameplate showed AT.F4

[PaulReeves.com - GPOWER.TV]

I've fitted an aftermarket exhaust and can hear & feel the first 3 gears when the gear changes in auto mode

Its definitely the 8 Speed CVT let me assure you, 'plated: RE04'...

Another post on here from a member said that an Adelaide workshop serviced his Extroid when he supplied the o-ring , gasket & oil.

Does anyone know where that was exactly???

Edited May 16, 2015 by PaulReeves.com - GPOWER.TV

[Leroy Peterson]

I have the part numbers for the o ring and the gasket, but please do us all a favour and tell us what your car nameplate says before you continue to waste everyone's time

[Nightcrawler]

I am not sure exactly who you are referring to Paul, but Michael at MV Automatics is THE auto trans guy in Australia. It is likely to have been him.

MV Automaticswww.mvautomatics.com.au
1 Google review

1 Stirling Road
Blackwood SA
(08) 8370 0430

[mycarhasposessedme]

You make some very *cough* "interesting* posts there Mr GPOWER.

All jokes aside now, If you really want help, & from your various posts I've seen you really need it.

Listen the f**k to what people are telling you.

You seem to have a very simplistic view of what's going on here.

Horse to water my friends, horse to water.

[Leroy Peterson]

I am not sure exactly who you are referring to Paul, but Michael at MV Automatics is THE auto trans guy in Australia. It is likely to have been him.

MV Automatics www.mvautomatics.com.au

+1 to MV. theyre currently sending me a shift kit for the RE4.

cvt.co.nz do sell gear too, but they werent interested in my business once i said i wasnt buying oil from them.

31526-5P009 (O-Ring)

31397-5P000 (Gasket) (someone will need to confirm Y34 is same as V35. it should be same, but Y34 is "6 speed" CVT so small chance is different sump)

[t5iv]

Ok. Auto conversion is fairly straight forward. Need Auto TCU and 95% chance that it will marry up to the ECU. The fact that there's an external TCU makes it a lot easier.

If you're tracking the car from time to time, the shift kitted auto will be a better option. Think the RE5 is the stronger box of the two from memory.

If you're defining 'feeling the gear change' as the feeling when the engine lowers it's revs, then that's kind of true. With an exhaust, you can hear/feel when the car drops from 4k-3k-2k.

Out of curiousity, what's your diff fluid like?

The trans cooler is an external unit not part of the radiator.

[sonicii]

Hang on....

This is a CVT. It should not have gears when it is in auto mode. It is a Continuously Variable Transmission...

Agreed, there should be no detectable gear changes with a CVT in 'D', as there is no 'gears', just a continuous adjustment of ratio as speed increases, dependant on throttle input.

Edited April 9, 2015 by sonicii