Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm ok replaced the pcv with a new one and the problem still exists, but as not as much.

Again., oil is sucked in on coasting down long hills, then big plume of blue smoke on accelleration.

I saw back in a 2010 thread, JDM_spirit blocked off his pcv ,the problem went away and the car performed normally.

So I'm gonna try it too.

I'm burning 1 litre of oil every 5-6 weeks.

My mechanic does think it's the valve stem seals and told me to start saving up.

I do not like the sound of that..

He pointed out it's common for cars around 10 years old or more that have sat around for long periods of time.

The seals are neoprene and dry out.

The previous owner said he hardly drove it in 6 months as he had a company car.

Then additionally the time she's been on the boat coming over from Japan.

Anyone here done their seals or guides ?

Would like to have an idea before I commit.

If the head has to come off I may as well swap over the turbo at the same time.

cheers

Turbo's with ruined rear bearings will sometimes blow smoke on decel. Can you drop the dump and see how much play the turbine wheel has? More likely that than the stem seals, but who really knows until someone picks up a wrench...

Yeah true, wish I had more time to tinker myself.

Another thing to consider is the oil only seems to enter when the car is facing down hill, driving and parked.

If I park facing up hill, there's never any smoke on start up.

Where's the pcv, toward the front or back ?

cheers

Turbo's with ruined rear bearings will sometimes blow smoke on decel. Can you drop the dump and see how much play the turbine wheel has? More likely that than the stem seals, but who really knows until someone picks up a wrench...

Yeah but wouldn't the oil immediately enter the manifold if it's the turbo bearing.

So there would be smoke whilst rolling downhill or gearing down and there isn't.

Only once I touch the accellerator.

It's like the head doesn't drain quick enough when going downhill.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Yeah but wouldn't the oil immediately enter the manifold if it's the turbo bearing.

So there would be smoke whilst rolling downhill or gearing down and there isn't.

Only once I touch the accellerator.

It's like the head doesn't drain quick enough when going downhill.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Your symptoms are typical of oil getting past the rings, although the valve stem seals are still a possibility. How about doing a compression test and/or a leak-down test?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...