Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yep, thought i add some type of spacers or change caliper and disc

is it worth it ? does 15mm makes a big difference ?

also the link between subframe and front cross member which has a big rubber bush in it seems as it is leaking grease or oil, could it be that ?

I am trying to find a picture so can share it .

here is the pic of the bush

9sh5d5.jpg

Edited by stranger12

no oil dripping on it from anywhere.

it seems the rocker cover is leaking but that is far back .

do the bushes have some sort of grease or oil in them or someone has put oil on to stop it squeeking ( previous owner)

"Radius rods typically are mounted ahead of the wheel. In that position they resist dive under braking forces and wheel hop underacceleration."

could be that then

many thanks

by the way is dba a good brand? In UK i am seeing ebc and mtec for brake discs and they are £200 for a pair of front discs compared to £100 for dba

Edited by stranger12

One thing that we see on brakes thats been overlooked is the wheel hubs being warped.

Tyre shops love using rattle guns and over tightening wheel nuts, this warps the hub which in turn means the rotor sitting over it will have runout.

And one other thing is disc thickness variation, some pads agrivate this issue, once the rotor is scolloped its hard to measure with a dial indicator, only a light skim brings back the rotors.

Everything else said previously concerning other causes it pretty spot on.....

Also sticking calipers are a major source of warped rotors, push back the pistons, make sure none are hard to push back, any that are are overheating the rotor on one side.

any view on the discs?

I want to changed them to standard discs again and dba which is Australian made I think is only £100 for a pair where as EBC and motec is almost £200.

is DBA any good for street and occasional track use?

We have run both DBA and RDA rotors on or GTR and S2000, not a problem.

EBC in Reds are rated to 650 degrees and very gentle on the rotors and low dust.

EBC Yellows are a little harsher on the disc, rated to 900 degrees and dust up heaps.

My everyday daily cars run the EBC Redstuff (FG Turbo ute and Mrs Falcon), GTR and S2000 is on Yellows as they get pushed hard and need a bit more temp rating for late braking etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...