Jump to content
SAU Community

Broke my RB20det, Need Advice! :)

Memph

By Memph,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Memph Proficient

Memph

Posted
Posted

Well the other night, i was driving home when my boost went from 10 to 0..

didnt know what happened, so i downgeared and gave it some throttle and it went from 20vac back to 0...

well, turns out. the little bit of metal at the end of th e spark plug that the spark actually jumps to snapped off, went into my 1st cylinder, bent an exhaust valve, went through the turbo and took out my turbine wheel and continued through my exhaust.

by the way, its a 1992 R32 GTSt Manual

:D

So now im thinking of what to do next..

Its either,

a) Rebuild current RB20

B) Buy replacement RB20

c) Buy RB25 to go in my R32 :D

Im really leaning towards option c, but the thing is either way i will be taking out a 5k student loan. so thats all i will be able to spend. 5k.

And if i get an RB25 i wouldnt mind getting aftermarket management in there aswell.. Reckon that could be done for 5k?

Basically i dont need a whole half cut or what ever. But what would i need to get an RB25 working in my car? whats like the least i would need? how much you reckon it would cost?

I have a guy who can fit the engine for me.. but that wont include a tune or anything. i guess that will be done when the computer is fitted (will be done at Maztech)

So just need lots and lots of advice.

Thanks all :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45585-broke-my-rb20det-need-advice/
Share on other sites
Memph Proficient

Memph

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Option C :) shouldn't be a problem with 5k depends on labour costs, but you say a guy can fit it for you. Also a computer will probably cost around ~$1500 so budget that in as well.

Anyways good luck with the project!

was talking to a bloke who has done an engine swap in his silvia. he was saying it may be kinda tricky but its been done and blah blah. but then when i said i was getting after market management he goes, oh well that just makes everything so much easier, and it should be pretty straight forward then..

just wandering what difference it makes? in terms of the wiring loom or something?

Thanks all

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

If you are going to put a RB25 in, then get the half-cut. That way, you get a ECU and loom, and aftermarket ECUs like Wolf and Microtech have Plug'n'Play models that are much easier to install.

Memph Proficient

Memph

Posted
  • Author
Posted
RB25, front cut... if you can land a 25 box too you'll be laughing.

i have gone off the idea of an RB25. i think i will just rebuild my RB20 with forged internals and a few other goodies. :D

just dunno where to get stuff from... i tried racepace and they dont deal with RB20's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • joshuaho96
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You 100% could do that, would save money on a gym membership lol. But yeah, getting a cordless orbital sander will feel priceless coming from doing it manually.  Good luck with it mate
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I initially was going to do the whole car with a block then realised, it would be a bigger monster of the job 😂 I guess that's all part of the learning process. I appreciate all that advice, I think I got a good idea on how to tackle this whole job.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I admire your efforts with the scuff pad.  As a mere mortal, I use this for the baulk of my sanding work- https://sydneytools.com.au/product/milwaukee-m18bos125-0-18v-li-ion-cordless-125mm-5-random-orbital-sander-skin-only Yes you can easily create a low spot while sanding. There are 2 types of filler, 1 part of 2 part. The 2 part filler will get used for large corrections and the 1 part filler will get used for pin holes and areas that only need slight filling.  Depending on how zealous you are with the sander (very easy to do with a power tool) or if you are chasing rust etc, yes those low spots will need to get filled or you will end up with a very obvious defects in the paint.  Using the guide coat and large sanding block, high and low areas will be revealed (watch youtube videos for a good visual on this). Its up to you if you think its worth the effort to make the car completely flat before you spray it (you make it flat by filling the low areas).  At the end of the day, it comes down to time. The end result comes from the level of prep put in to the car. If you want a perfect result, you have to put in the time during the prep stage or else it will be impossible to achieve a perfect result during the spraying process. 
×
×
  • Create New...