Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'Day,

The short story is that I need Q45 AFM pinouts - ie which pins on the AFM is Gnd, Signal & 12V ??

The long story is :

My PFC has been sitting in my draw for months cause I thought it was busted.

Recently the Microtech that replaced the PFC had some issues and has gone back to Microtech to be fixed.

Meanwhile, I put the PFC back in (no AFM) and sure enough it wouldn't start.

So I tried my standard ECR33 ECU without the AFM connected (as the Microtech didn't use an AFM) - and yep , starts OK, but won't rev past 2500 cause no AFM.

I connect up my Q45 to the standard ECU to get some resolution the ECU - just for a test - and low and behold - it didn't start.

So I try the PFC without and AFM again - no go.

I tried the PFC with the Q45 wired the way I think is right - and no go.

Out of frustration - I put the Y31/VG30DE AFM out of the Gloria in the Skyline, set the PFC to standard AFM )in etc), and hey presto - it works.. O M F G.

So, I either have a stuffed Q45 AFM or I am wiring it wrongly.

Can those Q45 AFM guys with PFC and ECR33 , please advise the pinout of the Q45 AFM ??

Thanks -

Very happy that the PFC works ! :D :D :)

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks Phil, Yep - that's the way I had it wired -

Are we sure that this is correct ? Cause if so, looks like I am in the market for a new AFM :D

Megs will the Z32 MAF have enough resolution for my setup ?

According to SK's table - Z32 only good for 255ish RWKW. (100rwkw short for me ) :D

Air Flow meters RWKW & Engine BHP

----------- OD ----- RWKW ----- RWKW ------ BHP ------ BHP

No of AFM's ----------- 1 -------- 2 -------- 1 -------- 2

RB26 ------ 65 ------ 149 ------ 299 ------ 271 ------ 474

RB20/25 --- 80 ------ 226 ------ 453 ------ 376 ------ 683

Z32 ------- 80 ------ 255 ------ 511 ------ 415 ------ 763

Q45 ------- 90 ------ 302 ------ 605 ------ 479 ------ 890

Also , can someone explain please the PFC settings for Air Flow ?

You have all the choices of std AFM, Z32 AFM, Q45 AFM and others.

But on my commander, all actual settings are the same for each AFM you choose.

eg

1. 0.64V 100%

2. 1.28V 100%

3. 1.92V 100%

4. 2.56V 100%

5. 3.20V 100%

6. 3.86V 100%

7. 4.48V 100%

8. 5.12V 100%

The are all the same for each AFM type ??

I don't get it.

PS - Midnight Tuners Unite :D

Can anyone tell me - if I get a Z32 AFM then tune the car. Then later if I go a Q45 again, will the car need a complete retune ??

 

Cheers,

Not "complete" retune, but the readings are quite different between the 80 mm and 90 mm AFM's. It seems to work out about "half" a tune (timewise).

Also , can someone explain please the PFC settings for Air Flow ?

     

     You have all the choices of std AFM, Z32 AFM, Q45 AFM and others.

     

     But on my commander, all actual settings are the same for each AFM you choose.

     

     eg

       

 1. 0.64V  100%

      2.   1.28V   100%

      3.   1.92V   100%

      4.   2.56V   100%

      5.   3.20V   100%

      6.   3.86V   100%

      7.   4.48V   100%

      8.   5.12V   100%

     

     The are all the same for each AFM type ??

     

     I don't get it.

 

 

 

PS - Midnight Tuners Unite :thumbsup:

Sorry for the second post, I forgot to mention this one /|

That's the AFM "correction" table, the actual ramp table (algorithm) for the AFM's is not visible. What you do with the correction table is match an unlisted AFM with one that is listed. You select the closest one in the list to what you are trying to match and then use the correction table to line them up. You do a basic tune of the car with a listed AFM and then fit the unlisted AFM and use the correction table to line up the maps using the map tracer.

Hope that made some sense :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Just pulled the passenger apart so got a good idea, also the side bracket that pivots the top half is completely cooked.. how I don’t know.. haha and paid $400 also included a photo of the passenger seat! She is mint
    • I managed to get the foam will the original upholstery off in one piece, so will be an easy to re fit thankfully.
    • Then eventually someone in a Tiguan MK2 with an email toon and some random Alibaba pipes. (FWIW, I ran a 12.9s down the 1/4 in the wife's car)
    • Not much. It's barely more than an hour's labour. So that-ish plus a boot, clamp strap, some grease.   But, being an R32 GTR, when it is up in the air and the driveshaft is out, about $9k worth of other problems will become visible.
    • Yes, as above. The welding is an easy enough job. Proper reupholstering, perhaps less so. These, and pretty much all seats of the same era (and probably still) rely on molded foam parts to make the shapes. That foam is the yellow detritus visible in the photos. And it is difficult to replicate. I didn't want the pain, so went aftermarket seats instead. But for "saving a classic".... it's probably worth the kidney and left nut that a trimmer will want to redo them.
×
×
  • Create New...