Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep - that makes sense - Thanks SK.

BTW - You don't happen to know if the above pinouts are correct for the Q45 do you ??

ie:

Flow

=======>Turbo

1 2 3

1 = Ignition (12V)

2= AFM Signal

3 = AFM Ground

Cause when I wire it up like this it doesn't start - (I know it is something to do with the AFM cause the Y31 AFM works) ie I have the AFM wired wrong or it is busted,

Cheers,

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yup - getting 12V (ign), 0V (Gnd) and varying volts (signal) from the ECU.

PFC monitor on the AFM setting shows varying volts (1.1 and up , if recall) with the Y31 AFM installed but with the Q45 - I get 0.5V and it doesn't change cause it won't start.

BTW - from memory, my wires are different colours to yours.

From memory - I have (from the ECU)

Orange/Blue - Signal Wire

Black/White - 12V Power

Blue/White - ECU Earth

Yup - getting 12V (ign), 0V (Gnd) and varying volts (signal) from the ECU.

PFC monitor on the AFM setting shows varying volts (1.1 and up , if recall) with the Y31 AFM installed but with the Q45 - I get 0.5V and it doesn't change cause it won't start.

BTW - from memory, my wires are different colours to yours.

From memory - I have (from the ECU)

Orange/Blue - Signal Wire

Black/White - 12V Power

Blue/White - ECU Earth

Which pins are B, D and E on the Q45 ??

Fluting around some more tonight .......

With ignition on only, PFC read out in Monitor reads 540mV when you crank it, it won't start and PFC continues to read 540mV (this is with my Q45 MAF in)

When I take AFM gnd (earth) off the AFM, PFC reads 5100mV and starts, but really really bad idle (which I can understand as the AFM is telling the ECU that I am at max air flow/oxygen density)

When I put the Y31 AFM in - initial AFM reading on the PFC says about ~500mV - when you crank it , PFC reading gradually climbs to 1100-1200 mV and idles fine.

BTW - the Y31 AFM terminals are marked A B C D E F

A= Not used

B= AFM Signal

c= Not used

D= AFM Ground

E= Ignition (12V)

F = Not used

BDE - Chris - maybe this is where you get your BDE from ?? (but not the right pinouts)

I def. don't have BDE or any letters on the Q45 or pins or anywhere.

I still think (hope) that maybe that I have wrong wiring - but don't want to try all combinations in case I blow something up.

OR - the Q45 could be stuffed.

I have searched the web all over the place - and do you think I can find the wiring pinouts for the Q45 ?? Nah - I've even searched on the damn part number of the Q45......

I'm begining to think Z32 is the way to go.......... he he :D

Anyone, Anyone ??

Need to have the car running and tuned by the 27th so I can take it Wakefield and put in a PB.

B-Man,

I may have the info you need. I have the q45 MAF on my car (RB25 in an s14a Silvia Chassis), but it is at home, and I am at work. I am trying to remember, and I believe that the power and ground are reversed from the rb25 MAF (series 2 anyway). I will look when I get home and see what is going on. In the meantime if you want, below is my writeup of how I determeined the correct pinout, so you could do that too if you want.

I couldn't find the info anywhere on the net either and ended up using a voltmeter/ohm-meter to deduce how to hook it up. First, figure out which wire is which from the ECU (I.E. Ground one lead of the ohm-meter on the body of the car/head/block, and touch other lead to the wires from the ECU, the one with Zero ohms is the earth, next switch the ignition on and test for which wire has 5-volts, that is power, the left over one is the signal).

The next part is harder, compare the resistance between the pins on the rb25 MAF to the resistance between the pins of the q45 MAF. I don't remember exactly what the values are, but they roughly similar (I.E. same amount of resistance between the power and earth pins on both MAFS etc). You know what the pins on the rb25 are from the first step. Measure the resistance between the earth pin and signal pin on the 25 AFM, then look for the same reading between two pins on the q45 AFM. When you find the same reading, you know that those are the ground and earth pins, but you don't know which is which. However, you do know now which is the power pin on the q45 (the one that isn't ground or signal), MARK IT!

Now, measure the resistance between the power and signal pins on the rb25 MAF, look for that same resistance between the power pin and one of the two unidentified pins on the q45 MAF. When you have found that, you have found the signal wire. Mark it too. The remaining one is the earth pin.

There you go! Like I said, I think it ends up that the power and earth pins are simply reversed from the rb25, but I don't remember for sure.

Greg Mitchell

P.S. If you can't find similar resistances between pins on the known working MAF and the Q45 MAF, there is a good chance your VH45 MAF is no longer working.

Also sorry about the Americanisms in the post, but that is what I am, and I don't have the time to change them all to Aussie friendly terms, but I did try a little, (earth instead of ground) :thumbsup:

Oh yeah, and typos, I am sure there are some of them mixed in as well. Looks like I also used VH45 and Q45 interchangably, the American version of the President is called called the Q45, so that is where that came from.

I have a Q45 AFM in front of me, it has three pins, they are marked "B D E" above the plug on the body of the AFM. The "B" is closest to the AFM inlet and the "E" closest to the outlet. The plug wiring is as follows;

The white wire goes to B

The black wire goes to D

The red wire (with black stripe) goes to E

The part number is 22680 61U00 A36-000 P60 903F, label is Yellow and this one was made by Jecs (Made in Japan).

I can send you a photo in high res if you need, PM me your email address.

Hi B-Man

I cant help you with the digi pics my camera's were stolen take SK up on his offer cause mine read's the same as his air flow left to right B.D.E. Sorry i cant be of more help

Cheers Peter

Sorry guys,

I've been in Melbourne all week for work. So I haven't done anything.

The P/N on my MAF is 22680 6IU0I A36-000 P61

6Z20A

Nearly the same as SK's excepts for the P60/P61 thing - don't know if that matter.,

Well, if BDE are in the order that SK mentions and BDE are Ign, Sig, Gnd respectvely - the I am wiring it up correctly and I have a stuffed AFM

OR since I have no BDE on the AFM - maybe they are different for the version I have - I'll take a pic

SK - can you please send pic to bfauldsbigpondnetau ? Thanks.....

Greg - I thought about doing it your way - but wsn't sure if the resistances would be similar - I will check that out on the weekend - thanks for the tip ?

I'll let you guys know how I go.

IF anyone has any more info , please post it up - cheers.

Greg Mitchell - you are a farking legend my man........

Measured the resistance betwen gnd and sig/12V on the Y31 AFM - Gnd & Sig = 5.6 Kohms , Gnd and 12V = 12.55 Kohms - between Sig & 12 V = 18.21 K ohms (the sum of 5.6 and 12.55 approx)

Measured resistance between B & D on my Q45 (5.74 Kohms) and then between D & E (12.54 Kohms) and then between B & E (18.09 Kohms)

Therefore I deduced that:

B = Signal (orange/blue)

D = Ground (Blue / White)

E = Ignition 12V (black /white)

Started first pop - lovely ! :D :D ;)

So happy :)

Thanks guys for all your help ! !

Now I need a tune - Chris - mate - send me your maps......;)

Who's the best PFC tuner in Sydney ???????

And for those of you who thought I was making it up when I siad I had no BDE on the AFM - here is the proof (note the BDE in texta , I put that on there - and only works with the above post)

Ignore the I,S,G (in texta) - THIS IS WRONG ! !

Let us know if you experience any strange idle issues.

Steve and I have both had issues due to mesh not being on both sides of the AFM.

Mine used to have a slight idle hunt and slight pop on idle.

The car had problems idling on 600rpm.

With the mesh the tacho needle sits rock solid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
    • Pfft. As if I'd ever point a high pressure washer at my car.
    • The nature of my commute has changed. Way back then it was traffic lights all the way, for ~28km. It sucked. When they finally stitched the expressway together I could do a good 15+km of it at a steady 80-100 with no stopping. That alone has gotten me down to flat 10s. Prior to that it was mid-high 10s. I can't remember the delta that I saw when I got the idle down. It was only ~150 rpm, because the idle speed was never terrible, but for the delta in consumption to be noticeable it would have had to have been at least 0.2-0.3 L/100km - which is not to be sneezed at when it comes for absolute free. It's only about 50L per year, but that's ~$100. A few extra pizzas is always welcome. Note that I have a record of every tank of fuel that has ever gone through my car except for a handful put in by someone else, like my mechanic. I can show you the difference between stock RB20 and tuned RB20, stock RB5Neo and tuned, winter and summer fuel blends, winter and summer fuel blends when the ambient temperature is not appropriate for the blend, working O2 sensor, blown O2 sensor, boosting f**k out of it and frightened to boost it because it is pinging, and so on. OK, I probably can't do all that now with 100% clarity - but at the time when any of those things were in event, you could see it in the records. There's 25+ years of simple tank after tank records, so you have to look for landmarks to work out approximately how old any single record is. What's really important is the meta data and that lives in my head.
    • If you're claiming the issues are not skyline specific, then either the USA is living in the 90s / early 2000s, OR you have the issue of "survivor bias". Which is you're mainly hearing and listening to those with terrible experiences, and haven't found the guys who have cars with good decent builds and no problems. It happens in AU too, that plenty of people keep having issues, and they keep going to the workshops that are known to be shit "because I read on the internet". Even worse, are those who keep posting on the internet as though they know for a fact what something is, when they've never touched/looked at said item in their life, and again are making assumptions, based on something they read, or because it's a certain way in other cars. It's even funnier when those same people debate the facts with the people who've lived and breathed this stuff for over 15 years. Example, I've had someone tell me you can't do something with a Skyline, because they read it on the internet, except I can tell they're wrong, as I did that exact thing back in 2008 with my Skyline.
    • The funniest part I saw, was someone would bitch and moan on FB about something, Andy would be the one to respond, asking for more info, if he could contact them, what the engine setup is, what their config file was, and 95% of the responses were people just going "der! It doesn't work" and Andy going "What doesn't work?" And then going "The firmware!" And they'd go around in circles as no one could ever give information, and Haltech couldn't fault things on the bench, (especially when people wouldn't give any specifics).   Many moons ago, when Andy was back at e420c stage, he reached out to me, and asked me to test different plug and play looms for him (already had an e420c in the car on his V1 PNP loom). And he kept asking me, as I was competent enough to be able to give him some specific feedback on what was/wasn't working, how to replicate the faults etc, and work through things with him. Most people are terrible at answering the questions they're asked, or being able to provide quality feedback other than "it doesn't work".
×
×
  • Create New...