Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 32 gtr has a Nistune running 310rwkw. It has e85 1000cc injectors hks gtss turbos dumps exhaust.. from what I have read I have now maxed out my afm. I was thinking of buying the nismo afm and getting a haltech ecu. Is this a good option or do I just need to upgrade my afm?

Tuner can tell you.

Once you know, get rid of AFM and go MAP.( adaptronic or haltech plug in )

That said, you can still go beyond the limits of AFM's

EDIT

I remember Matt saying from there testing the limit is around 370kw for a single z32
Could try a HPX maf, but i would just replace the ecu if you are looking for over 400kw

Edited by jay-rod

Either you upgrade the AFMs to Nismo and you retune and get a better result, probably to the point where you max out the injectors/turbos and other components become limited.

Or you get rid of the Nistune ECU and buy another ECU and go with a MAP based sensor and forget about AFMs all together and tune the new ECU to the point where injectors/turbos and what not will be limited.

Measures the absolute pressure, which in turn allows you to mitigate the negatives of a AFM.

Eg, reverbaration, dirty afm affecting the signal, removes pretty much any limit on max airflow.

Atmos based blow off valve will not stall an engine
Comming off throttle will be alot "Smoother"

A pressure line will run to a sensor ( think of it like a boost sensor ).

This sensor will either be external, or internal to the ECU.
Most plug in ECU's use internal map sensors, and would be what you want.

You then remove the need for a AFM, and take them completely out of your engine bay.

And run a single boost line to the map sensor

Edited by jay-rod
  • Like 1

Measures the absolute pressure, which in turn allows you to mitigate the negatives of a AFM.

Eg, reverbaration, dirty afm affecting the signal, removes pretty much any limit on max airflow.

Atmos based blow off valve will not stall an engine

Comming off throttle will be alot "Smoother"

A pressure line will run to a sensor ( think of it like a boost sensor ).

This sensor will either be external, or internal to the ECU.

Most plug in ECU's use internal map sensors, and would be what you want.

You then remove the need for a AFM, and take them completely out of your engine bay.

And run a single boost line to the map sensor

Thanks it seems like this is a common question as to which is better? Afm or a plug in ecu which eliminates the afm? The general consensus leads to deleting the afm and spending the money on an ecu? A pair of nismo afm is going to cost 800ish I'm thinking this could be money better spent on an aftermarket ecu

My 32 gtr has a Nistune running 310rwkw. It has e85 1000cc injectors hks gtss turbos dumps exhaust.. from what I have read I have now maxed out my afm. I was thinking of buying the nismo afm and getting a haltech ecu. Is this a good option or do I just need to upgrade my afm?

You can't tell that your AFM and Nistune is "maxed out" by reading. Your tuner will tell you when that happens. How many turbos and how many afms do you have? I doubt anything is "maxed out" at 310awkw..if your tuner can't tune it because of the afms get a couple of RB25 afms.

Yes a Link would be great if money is burning a hole in your pocket but the ecu, map sensor, temp sensor, installation and tune won't leave much change out of $3k

You can't tell that your AFM and Nistune is "maxed out" by reading. Your tuner will tell you when that happens. How many turbos and how many afms do you have? I doubt anything is "maxed out" at 310awkw..if your tuner can't tune it because of the afms get a couple of RB25 afms.

Yes a Link would be great if money is burning a hole in your pocket but the ecu, map sensor, temp sensor, installation and tune won't leave much change out of $3k

won't a haltech platinum pro plug and play eliminate the need for any of those?

Just bought a hpx airflow meter from Nistune. All going well it will be getting tuned on Friday. Nistune say its goo upto 800hp.

What did they cost for the pair if you don't mind me asking?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I remembered wrong, but was close though 1Kz setting because those Jaycar SSRs don't go any faster, 1x pump per SSR with flyback diodes & heatsinks. In saying that, the heatsinks are overkill. Just on an alloy plate is more than sufficient. You'll find without a flyback diode, your SSRs will heat up big time and also die prematurely.  I've been running the two same SSRs since the last motor, no issues, car does 2 hour straight drives in summer once in a while and gets punished on the track. Nothing melts, no hot messes, etc.    
    • Hmm. You're probably best off working out what the lobe centreline or even the LSA is for the stock cams, with VCT OFF. That's bound to be out there somewhere. Then, work on the assumption that the Kelford centreline is probably the same, and wouldn't be more than a couple of degrees away, if it is different at all. I'm very surprised that you needed to adjust the exhaust cam by 5° to get it on spec. That screams there's another problem somewhere. Anything from the belt being 1 tooth off (how many degrees is one tooth worth?) to simple user/measurement error on the degree wheel. I say this because Kelford, like most quality cam manufacturers these days, does a pretty good job of actually making the cams to spec, not relying on patching it up afterwards like we had to do back in the 80s.
    • Besides packing it, you can also fill your pump through the oil filter inlet port. After cranking for what felt like an eternity without pressure, i fed a tube in through there and filled it with oil. Cranked for a few seconds after that and had pressure. 
    • That's exactly what I told myself. I'm happy it came out. 
    • My bet is there's a fuse somewhere you blew that feeds power to the ECU. Or you've bumped something out behind the dash board.
×
×
  • Create New...