Jump to content
SAU Community

Is My Nistune Maxed Out At 310rwkw And Stock Afm Maxed Also?


Recommended Posts

My 32 gtr has a Nistune running 310rwkw. It has e85 1000cc injectors hks gtss turbos dumps exhaust.. from what I have read I have now maxed out my afm. I was thinking of buying the nismo afm and getting a haltech ecu. Is this a good option or do I just need to upgrade my afm?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tuner can tell you.

Once you know, get rid of AFM and go MAP.( adaptronic or haltech plug in )

That said, you can still go beyond the limits of AFM's

EDIT

I remember Matt saying from there testing the limit is around 370kw for a single z32
Could try a HPX maf, but i would just replace the ecu if you are looking for over 400kw

Edited by jay-rod
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Either you upgrade the AFMs to Nismo and you retune and get a better result, probably to the point where you max out the injectors/turbos and other components become limited.

Or you get rid of the Nistune ECU and buy another ECU and go with a MAP based sensor and forget about AFMs all together and tune the new ECU to the point where injectors/turbos and what not will be limited.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Measures the absolute pressure, which in turn allows you to mitigate the negatives of a AFM.

Eg, reverbaration, dirty afm affecting the signal, removes pretty much any limit on max airflow.

Atmos based blow off valve will not stall an engine
Comming off throttle will be alot "Smoother"

A pressure line will run to a sensor ( think of it like a boost sensor ).

This sensor will either be external, or internal to the ECU.
Most plug in ECU's use internal map sensors, and would be what you want.

You then remove the need for a AFM, and take them completely out of your engine bay.

And run a single boost line to the map sensor

Edited by jay-rod
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Measures the absolute pressure, which in turn allows you to mitigate the negatives of a AFM.

Eg, reverbaration, dirty afm affecting the signal, removes pretty much any limit on max airflow.

Atmos based blow off valve will not stall an engine

Comming off throttle will be alot "Smoother"

A pressure line will run to a sensor ( think of it like a boost sensor ).

This sensor will either be external, or internal to the ECU.

Most plug in ECU's use internal map sensors, and would be what you want.

You then remove the need for a AFM, and take them completely out of your engine bay.

And run a single boost line to the map sensor

Thanks it seems like this is a common question as to which is better? Afm or a plug in ecu which eliminates the afm? The general consensus leads to deleting the afm and spending the money on an ecu? A pair of nismo afm is going to cost 800ish I'm thinking this could be money better spent on an aftermarket ecu
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 32 gtr has a Nistune running 310rwkw. It has e85 1000cc injectors hks gtss turbos dumps exhaust.. from what I have read I have now maxed out my afm. I was thinking of buying the nismo afm and getting a haltech ecu. Is this a good option or do I just need to upgrade my afm?

You can't tell that your AFM and Nistune is "maxed out" by reading. Your tuner will tell you when that happens. How many turbos and how many afms do you have? I doubt anything is "maxed out" at 310awkw..if your tuner can't tune it because of the afms get a couple of RB25 afms.

Yes a Link would be great if money is burning a hole in your pocket but the ecu, map sensor, temp sensor, installation and tune won't leave much change out of $3k

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can't tell that your AFM and Nistune is "maxed out" by reading. Your tuner will tell you when that happens. How many turbos and how many afms do you have? I doubt anything is "maxed out" at 310awkw..if your tuner can't tune it because of the afms get a couple of RB25 afms.

Yes a Link would be great if money is burning a hole in your pocket but the ecu, map sensor, temp sensor, installation and tune won't leave much change out of $3k

won't a haltech platinum pro plug and play eliminate the need for any of those?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
×
×
  • Create New...