Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Brand new Forced Performance gt3076r.

Change of direction in build.

Located- Wangaratta 3677

Buyer pays post or pick up.

Price- $1800

Contact on here or on 0400215126

Cheers Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455960-forced-performance-gt3076r/
Share on other sites

Bump make a reasonable offer

Alot better than a gtx and gt series. Proven to make near on 400kw atws with killer response.

Edited by Joshbigt62r

1600 dollars maybe still slightly be negotiable. Try me. These are 2k us before shipping so im losing here but need to move it for other plans.

Josh

Makds more power and spools faster. Read the Forced performance thread on sau. This hta76r kicks ass on a rb25.

I can confirm this :yes:

If anyone has any doubts check either my build thread or Wootten Racing on Facebook to see dyno graphs, dyno videos and any other info.

With the USD the way it is it makes this turbo extremely good value!

GLWS mate!

  • Like 1

Thanks matt. It was your build that influenced the way I was going. Unfortunately things have changed and I have to sell u p :(

I honestly cant believe this hta76r hasnt been snapped up yet. There 2k US Then you have to pay import taxes ect. In my opinion its the best rb25 turbo you can get.

  • Like 1

Come on guys $1600 is a bargain. I dont think people understand just how ultimate like this turbo matches a rb25. Even a single rb26 its good for 400kw at the wheels pretty much with killer response.

Just to verify it comes with no rear housing. But the kando tear housings are like 200 bucks in which ever size duits you .63 .73 .82 and 1.06

upgrade your standard cast wheel old school gt3076r to this weapon billet quick spooling anjmal of a turbo.

SOMEONE BUY THIS FFS. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
×
×
  • Create New...