Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello SAU

I have an idea. It seems pretty simple, but as all simple things, its complex in nature.

I have a vl calais turbo and i want to change the internals of the dash with the GTR skyline dash internals to make the vl a 300km/h and 9'000rpm dash. Now the difficult part is that i want to use the same face of the VL dash and get it re-numbered to match the factory style look (but obviuosly with the skyline numbers) and to get the needles tuned to the same ratio of the new gauges. (i hope that makes sense)

So i need to find out a few things:

The specifications for the electrical signals from the rpm and speed signal for the two cars (or at least the skyline one - while im here)

And to see if they are then compatible

I have tried to do a search on here but the main things i am findiing is the wiring diagrams and so forth, not the actual signal specs and so forth.

Now before the comments start coming in about why not go aftermarket - well everyone has that!

I appreciate any help given.

Regards - Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456009-complex-speedo-and-tacho-question/
Share on other sites

Why bother with factory internals - if you are going to change the dial face anyways? You cant "tune" the sensitivity and response of the air core driver. To do that you need to build your own like I did: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455121-tachometer-fix/

Moreso, it would be beneficial to look into microcontrollers in order to bend the signal to calibrate it to the dial face. Otherwise you will probably end up with inaccuracy at either the low or high end of the dial.

If you want to make something custom, you are going to need flexibility.

Jiffo - sorry i should have mentioned this.

I will be using a 26/30 engine with the normal MX7 gearbox from the vl turbo.

I did have a long troll around the interweb and find out some things i needed to know. I stumbled upon a dude from NZ that made an rpm signal converter for a vl. If i understood it correctly it changes the gtr 5 volt 6 pulse rpm signal to a single pulse 12 volt signal. Or maybe the other way around, i dont have the web page open in front of me right now.

There was also another dude called Grant that used to work in Sixworks in Newcastle who made some kit for this kind of thing, but that forum info was from 2003 :( i have sent the guy an e-mail but not heard anything yet.

The reason i want the thing to look factory is just because of personal taste. I want something unique and not just normal autometer guages in a box

zoomzoom - your dash looks pretty neat. i like what you've done. Once again, while surfing the web i found out that you can also recalibrate the vl speedo to 240km/h (its no 300 but its something different) I will post up the links i have found when i get home today and see what you guys think about them.

I do appreciate the response. thought provoking.

http://www.gweeds.net/RBModule/rbmodule.html

here is the link...

here is the face, its something like what im thinking of...

whitedash.jpg
The beauty of printing your own dials means you can do what you want with them here are some pictures of the prints I used
speedo.jpg rev.jpg
I surrounded the gauges with carbon fibre stick on film. The GSR of course stands for Guido Seevens Racing. The Speedo has been roughly recalibrated so that it matches with the speedo drive out of the Nissan gearbox (My 100k is where a standard commodores 80k is) And the top end brought up from 200 to 240. The rev counter has been extended to 9 grand (tho the motor is limited at 6800rpm). The whole lot was printed on high quality white paper with a colour photocopier. The paper was then stuck to 0.5mm thick white Polystryrene sheet behind which I stuck 2 layers of blue cellophane so that the dash has a blue glow at night. This is to be replaced by Electro Luminescent sheet which will give it the Indiglo type effect. The gauges will then be printed on transparencies. The satellite switches and boost gauge have been illuminated with blue LED's

So you'll be using the VL speedo and tacho, just with a different fascia?

Speedo would be working at present?

VL tacho will work from the Rb25/30 ecu with the 10c pull-up resistor circuit.

One of my boys chopped up his dash to fit a boost gauge. Was a long time ago now.

Car was actually a VB but with VL interior and Rb20.

post-73571-0-39691600-1429869092_thumb.jpg

post-73571-0-99942500-1429869277_thumb.jpg

post-73571-0-71969600-1429869347_thumb.jpg

Hey Jiffo

Yes the speedo works at present. as does the tacho.

I don't imagine it makes a difference that its an 26/30 not 25/30 - the ecu pins should be the same.

your mate has a nice setup there.

the fascia will be different. My original question was, whether its possible to have a different internal mechanisms behind the fascia (ie. 300km/h from gtr nismo dash). However through some lucky surfing and finding out some info from some friends it seems that maybe that doesn't even need to be done.

When you say internal mechanism, do you mean just the circuitry? The air core dial itself shouldn't need to be changed if it has sin+ sin- cos+ cos- connections. Its just that whatever combination of dial angle and frequency will differ between circuits.

When you say internal mechanism, do you mean just the circuitry? The air core dial itself shouldn't need to be changed if it has sin+ sin- cos+ cos- connections. Its just that whatever combination of dial angle and frequency will differ between circuits.

As i am not very knowledgeable in the circuitry of the internal dash components and i am not claiming that i know exactly how they work :), i can only attempt to describe what i mean. I will do this with the best paint skillz that i have. I hope this helps to explain 2 things. 1) that i am a moron that doesnt understand dash circuitry and 2) that the thing im wondering is if you can change is, the thing behind the fascia (which controls the speedo pin/dail).

j14l20.jpg

Righto. Well I think you're referring to the air core gauge. Think of it like a motor. The angle of the motor for a given frequency is determined by the circuitry, and that is where I think you need to be concerned. The air core mechanism itself shouldn't need to be replaced, and will save you time and fabrication.

For example, my tacho stopped working, but it was the circuitry and the ECU signal. There's not much to break in the gauge itself, its just copper windings. I built a new gauge driver circuit, plugged it into the existing gauge and it works again.

Thanks zoomzoom ;)

very helpful and informative. I will look into it some more at a later point. There are plenty of things that i can do in the mean time :) but i get what your saying with respect to the air core gauge :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...