Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Recently had my R33 GTR at the mechanic, for fitting the (I had hoped) last few mods to my car.

Upon pick up, they have told me that they have noticed a crack in the engine block (near the turbo oil feed, between cylinders 3 and 4) that is allowing coolant to seap out. They told me that it was enough to form a small puddle on the floor, though I have now had the car back in my garage for 24hrs and the floor is clean.

Anyway, unfortunately I guess this means I am probably up for another $10k or so to get the engine out and have an N1 block fitted (Im not a mechanic so can't do it myself), and hopefully forged internals as well. Super bummed, as I had planned to just enjoy the car now, as I've already thrown about 25k at it in parts and labour.

A few questions:

1. Are there any common causes for a cracked block? Mechanic said it is common on RB26's, due to some twisting because of front end torque?) I could barely find any info on google relating to cracked RB26 blocks.

2. How likely is it that this crack will get bigger quickly? (Potentially a "how long is a piece of string question", but if anyone has had any experience before?)

3. Any suggestions for the build of the bottom end? Do's or don'ts? Not looking for massive power (currently 300awkw with -7 turbos) but any suggestions based on past experience would be great. I'm not ruling out buying a pre-built engine if it was close to my budget, then just re-fitting any parts needed from my existing engine.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456024-rb26dett-cracked-block/
Share on other sites

Its a common problem when 4wd launching, right between Cyl 3 and 4, its the weakest part of the block, extra oil passages run across there.

Its the front diff forces being put though the block that twists it.

Many people throw and inch or 2 of hardblok into the water jackets to help strengthen the blocks up a bit more.

First get a second opinion to make sure its actually cracked and not a bad fitting or welsh plug.

  • Like 1

yeah assuming it's not a welsh plug, it will be engine out and new block required to fix it.

however, depending on what you choose to do at the same time, it doesn't have to be that expensive. A second hand block, reuse existing pistons if they are already oversize ($0) or new pistons if not ($1k) plus basic machining, rings and bearings. You can do all that for under $1k + pistons if needed.

Seen it heaps, our test car has broken 4 05U blocks all from massive launches with 700 - 750 awhp, tried all different combos with grout, without grout, more grout, less grout, etc, etc.
N1 block going in it this time and then find the limits of that.

Q2 You might be able to buy a bit of time with "Intelligence Polymer. Costs $150 and you need to run it in the engine for 500km until it fills any cracks and sets. It's supposed to be flexible too under heat and not get brittle. Up to you...

We have used Liquid intelligence 245 several times,not on performance cars ,if you follow the instructions exactly it works !! I think it is about $85 from Autobarn as stated above it may get you out of trouble, we have had it in a work car for 2 years ,it fixed a badly blown head gasket .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...