Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

My stock turbo is no longer with us and I am after a replacement, would my best option be finding a second hand one in decent condition or getting something brand new that is equivalent to the stock turbo? Any suggestions on what they might be?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456139-r34det-neo-turbo-replacement/
Share on other sites

Do you still have the turbo? Just get it high flowed, much cheaper than a whole new turbo and it will be stronger and won't let go again. Oh and more power :)

Search for Hypergear on the forum and check out the high flows

  • 4 weeks later...

2nd hand in usable condition will be about $150 - $250. If you won't be installing it yourself, labour is the only pricey bit here.

Highflowing your current one will machine your stuffed one (assuming no damage to the housing) and replace the center bits for about $800-1200, however for this to work in your car at full potential, it'll need another $2000-3000 worth of supporting mods (intercooler, exhaust, z32 air flow meter, aftermarket ECU, tune, maybe injectors).... and then you'll be a target for police, and/or realise you should have just spend $5000 for a nice garrett turbo like a 3071/3076 package instead of $4500 for a highflow package

Buying a new turbo from nissan, if even possible, will be stupid expensive... don't even consider this

Buying an equivilent size turbo to the new one, probably not worth the effort... you're throwing money at it for no gains.

Since you've got a R34 with a OP6 rear housing, It is a good turbo for high flowing.

High flowed turbocharger will bolton to factory setup with no modifications required. There is no need getting all supporting mods unless you are targeting the full potential of the turbocharger. Factory ECU usually works fine upto 10psi of boost.

High flowed turbocharger has factory appearance, that is unlikely to have you defected then another turbos.

Doing all of those modifications fit an internally gated GT3076 / 71, risking been defected, is not going to get you more then what you can get using one of our high flows.

Lastly we only charge $850 to carry it out with oil line supplied, not $2G.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...