[usa] Researching R32 Gtr

[Nexus GT-R]

Hello. Since this place seemed so full of knowledge I decided to join. Hope us 'mericans are allowed!

I'm looking into importing a R32 GTR and have a couple of questions that I've been trying to find info on I think I have found my answers but would love input to make sure I am correct.

I'll cut to the chase and ask my questions.

1. What is the most AWHP I can expect safely from the stock turbos and very mild modifications?(93 Octane)
2. What can I expect if I upgrade to a turbo without ceramic blades?
3. From a durability preventative maintenance POV what should I do/replace when I get it?(I assume at least the 25yo clutch)
4. Whats some good basic/bang for buck handling recommendations?

I'm not looking to make a track car, just something very fun I can drive about ever day while having fun and being comfortable.

Thanks Everyone!

[djr81]

Hello. Since this place seemed so full of knowledge I decided to join. Hope us 'mericans are allowed!

I'm looking into importing a R32 GTR and have a couple of questions that I've been trying to find info on I think I have found my answers but would love input to make sure I am correct.

I'll cut to the chase and ask my questions.

1. What is the most AWHP I can expect safely from the stock turbos and very mild modifications?(93 Octane)
2. What can I expect if I upgrade to a turbo without ceramic blades?
3. From a durability preventative maintenance POV what should I do/replace when I get it?(I assume at least the 25yo clutch)
4. Whats some good basic/bang for buck handling recommendations?

I'm not looking to make a track car, just something very fun I can drive about ever day while having fun and being comfortable.

Thanks Everyone!

Since your new I will have a go at answering your questions - but be aware that these have been asked (And answered) many, many times on SAU. A google search will turn them up with ease.. Anyway.

1. It is not the horsepower but the boost level that your turbos will survive. Typically 1 bar is all you should use. What it reads on the dyno depends on the dyno but 300rwhp is a rough number.

2. Depends on the turbo. A trite answer I know but it really depends on the turbo. Check the forced induction section for any number of engine/turbo/fuel combinations. Also look up 707160-7 and 707160-9.

3. There is an enormous number of things that can go wrong - and probably will. Bushes, belts, clutches (Attessa more so than the one you are thinking of), window seals, rear wiper, oil pumps.... Get it up on a hoist and looked at.

4. Bilstein shocks, new springs, sway bars, new bushes and front end neg camber.

Have fun.

[Nexus GT-R]

Thanks. Yeah I'm sure they are asked a lot. i mostly had "ball park" areas of the answers I expect to hear. I just more want to think I'm not comprehending something wrong. :-)

Would you say that if i get a GTR in good mechanical shape I should put clutch, clutches and full fluids change as the top items on my list? I know a 25yr old car can have a lot of small things wrong, but long as it's running mechanically sound I can worry about smaller things later.

As for the turbos I was thinking (from my understanding) the N1/R33/R34 have basically the same turbos but with metal blades. My last car ran about a 12.6-.7@106MPH on street tires. I'd like to if possible get a bit quicker than that, but if not with out heavier work, then so be it. I don't spend much time at the track, I just like having fun on the way to work.

I'd rather sink money into reliability and bulletproofing than crazy power. I'd rather my car can take 600HP and make only 300 while getting me to work every day than take 400 and making 370 while constantly having small things keep popping up. For example my Mustang had a built rear that would take 800HP. tranny that would take 600, and bottom end that would take 450, but I never pushed it past 330whp. It never let me down either until I had an accident.

[gtr jet]

If you're not after anything too serious then start with a full inspection of the car and a fluid change. I'd also recommend a compression test before purchase.

The car might even come with a decent clutch if you're lucky.

I'd recommend swapping out the ceramic turbo's as soon as you can as they're known to fail. 707160-7(R34 N1) or the HKS varient GT-SS is the next step up from factory and will give you roughly 400hp to the wheels and a high 11 second 1/4 with supporting mods.

Supporting mods would be a full exhaust, fuel pump, injectors and a tune to reach that goal.

Search will be your friend as to which way to go about it.

[Anfanee]

i have -7's and am running 430hp at the wheels

[breaker1845]

How deep are your pockets? If you want to recondition lots on the car you could be forking out a bit of money if the car isn't in great condition to start with plus the age.

25 years old and parts need replacing or have been replaced and need to be replaced again, etc.

If you are looking at importing, save yourself the headache by getting some checks done before it leaves Japan for your own security. Last thing you want is the car to be a disappointment once it gets here and a money pit to get it running before maintaining it.

With regards to modifications, there are heaps of different combinations and it depends on your power goals, response, reliability etc. Have a read through some build topics, the rb26 dyno thread and the use of Google could help pin point more specific articles.

Handling on the gtr on the street would be good so I doubt high end suspension mods would be needed but the basics can be covered and improve the car quite a bit. Quality tyres, brake pads and among other things together will all help the overall performance of the car.

[Anfanee]

Don't buy 1 unless you can afford 2.

[djr81]

Thanks. Yeah I'm sure they are asked a lot. i mostly had "ball park" areas of the answers I expect to hear. I just more want to think I'm not comprehending something wrong. :-)

Would you say that if i get a GTR in good mechanical shape I should put clutch, clutches and full fluids change as the top items on my list? I know a 25yr old car can have a lot of small things wrong, but long as it's running mechanically sound I can worry about smaller things later.

As for the turbos I was thinking (from my understanding) the N1/R33/R34 have basically the same turbos but with metal blades. My last car ran about a 12.6-.7@106MPH on street tires. I'd like to if possible get a bit quicker than that, but if not with out heavier work, then so be it. I don't spend much time at the track, I just like having fun on the way to work.

I'd rather sink money into reliability and bulletproofing than crazy power. I'd rather my car can take 600HP and make only 300 while getting me to work every day than take 400 and making 370 while constantly having small things keep popping up. For example my Mustang had a built rear that would take 800HP. tranny that would take 600, and bottom end that would take 450, but I never pushed it past 330whp. It never let me down either until I had an accident.

Look drive the car and if the clutch is fine then it is fine. No need to replace something if it is working. Its not a WRX/Emo so the clutch isn't the weak point. The attessa clutches are a known wear point. They are shimmed to give a certain clearance and when the clutch plates wear the shimming goes out of tolerance. You then get a slow to react system or one that doesn't work. Unfortunately the only ways to work this out is to pull it apart and measure it - or based on experience to make a judgement on the working of the system. Difficult if you've not driven one before.

RB26's can make stupid power even on standard internals. Leave the Nissan in it and do the support mods to your preferred hp. By which I mean ECU, afms or MAP (take your pick), injectors/fuel pump, turbos/exhaust. Will make 400rwhp happily with that lot and with room to spare too.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

1. What is the most AWHP I can expect safely from the stock turbos and very mild modifications?(93 Octane)

   - I wouldn't run anything more then 1 Bar Boost (14.7 PSI) on stock 25 year old engine and turbos.

   - But if the engine is healthy (good compression) and turbos are good condition, 300 Rear Wheel kW's (402HP)

   - Anything more you'd be risking it.

2. What can I expect if I upgrade to a turbo without ceramic blades?

   - Anything between 300 - 350 Rear Wheel kW's is a good range.

   - Depends on what Turbos you go, Garrett -7 / -9 / -5

   - If you want anything over 300 Rear Wheel kW's, you'd would have to start modding the Air Flow Metres / Fuel Injectors and you would need an ECU Tune.

   - Adjustable Cam Gears.

   - Just keep in mind the engine itself.

3. From a durability preventative maintenance POV what should I do/replace when I get it?(I assume at least the 25yo clutch)

   - Change Oil / Oil Filter / Air Filter / All the Fuilds

   - If clutch ain't slipping, then don't worry about it till it slips.

   - Retune it to run your 93 RON, we here in AUS have 98 RON so all JDM cars imported in will be tuned to that.

   - Whatever breaks on the way, just fix it, 25 year old car, things will need replacing sooner or later.

4. Whats some good basic/bang for buck handling recommendations?

   - Suspension / Wheels / Tyres / A good set of Brake Pads / Calipers / Strut Brace, if you don't have it already.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

As for the turbos I was thinking (from my understanding) the N1/R33/R34 have basically the same turbos but with metal blades. My last car ran about a 12.6-.7@106MPH on street tires. I'd like to if possible get a bit quicker than that, but if not with out heavier work, then so be it. I don't spend much time at the track, I just like having fun on the way to work.

- No, R33 and R34 GTR Stock Turbos are Ceramic

- R33 GTR N1 Turbos are Metal but non Ball Bearing.

- R34 GTR N1 Turbos are the equivalent to Garrett -7's and are Ball Bearing.

I'd rather sink money into reliability and bulletproofing than crazy power. I'd rather my car can take 600HP and make only 300 while getting me to work every day than take 400 and making 370 while constantly having small things keep popping up. For example my Mustang had a built rear that would take 800HP. tranny that would take 600, and bottom end that would take 450, but I never pushed it past 330whp. It never let me down either until I had an accident.

- That's it! That's what you want.

- Build an engine strong and reliable and run a nice power figure just under it's limit.

[Nexus GT-R]

Thanks everyone. So it looks like my first steps will be basic maintenance/care, then supporting mods to help along a 707160-7 or GT-SS.

I appreciate the help.

Not sure if anyone is familiar with them but I plan on going to japaneseclassicsllc.com once I see they have a car in stock that I'm interested in. They are a lot closer to me than others shops and seem to do a good job at inspecting/cleaning/prepping the car. If anyone has any positive or negative feedback about them I'd love the input.

Edited April 29, 2015 by Nexus GT-R

[GSX-R35]

Have you been to gtrusablog.com? It's by Sean Morris - he pioneered Skyline importation here in the US and crew chiefed the Speed World Challenge R34 a while back so he knows a lot about these cars. I bought my Nismo R32 from him and he's been a big help.

So far on my car I've done oil and filter, sparkplugs, and gearbox and diff fluids for basic preventive maintenance. All the belts and coolant will be changed too as soon as I get in a new water pump (it's not broken but since I'm swapping out the timing belt I figure I might as well swap it out at the same time). Also have a new fuel filter waiting to get swapped in. Clutch is on the menu too but mainly because my throwout bearing is worn.

Not too many owners here in the US of course so I started my own blog to talk about my car and post useful info. There's not much there yet since I just started but I'll be adding some DIYs and other info posts as time goes by. It's at 23gt.blogspot.com if you want to check it out.

[Nexus GT-R]

Have you been to gtrusablog.com? It's by Sean Morris - he pioneered Skyline importation here in the US and crew chiefed the Speed World Challenge R34 a while back so he knows a lot about these cars. I bought my Nismo R32 from him and he's been a big help.

So far on my car I've done oil and filter, sparkplugs, and gearbox and diff fluids for basic preventive maintenance. All the belts and coolant will be changed too as soon as I get in a new water pump (it's not broken but since I'm swapping out the timing belt I figure I might as well swap it out at the same time). Also have a new fuel filter waiting to get swapped in. Clutch is on the menu too but mainly because my throwout bearing is worn.

Not too many owners here in the US of course so I started my own blog to talk about my car and post useful info. There's not much there yet since I just started but I'll be adding some DIYs and other info posts as time goes by. It's at 23gt.blogspot.com if you want to check it out.

I actually found his site last night and got lost in it, haha. It's got SO much information. Kind of makes me think that I should invent in a NISMO intake manifold just to help negate the lean #6. Since the engine has to be lifted for it to be put on it seems that it would be something that would be timed perfectly to also installing a better oil pump along with it.

Edited April 29, 2015 by Nexus GT-R

[GSX-R35]

I actually found his site last night and got lost in it, haha. It's got SO much information. Kind of makes me think that I should invent in a NISMO intake manifold just to help negate the lean #6. Since the engine has to be lifted for it to be put on it seems that it would be something that would be timed perfectly to also installing a better oil pump along with it.

Nismo intake plenum and upgraded oil pump are on my planned mods as well but I've got a laundry list of other things that are higher priority right now since it runs fine and that would require pulling the engine. I'll probably do all of that once I get the other stuff taken care of and I'm ready to have the engine pulled for a full overhaul.

[Nexus GT-R]

Nismo intake plenum and upgraded oil pump are on my planned mods as well but I've got a laundry list of other things that are higher priority right now since it runs fine and that would require pulling the engine. I'll probably do all of that once I get the other stuff taken care of and I'm ready to have the engine pulled for a full overhaul.

I hear ya. I'd probably get the parts i want for it, then wait till I have a few things to go on at once and just have it all done at the same time. if it didn't involve pulling the engine I'd do it myself. I've done intake mani on my Mustang and cams on the ZX2, but I'm not comfortable pulling a motor.

[Matvei27]

I don't have a GT-R since for a daily driver it isn't worth it, but I have a R32 Type M so similar things will apply:

Unless you have service/shaken records, don't trust the KM on the odometer. At all.

If you have the service records, find out the last time the timing belt was replaced. The RB engines are all interference. If it snaps you are f**ked. If you don't have the records and don't know when the timing belt was last replaced, or if it hasn't been replaced, do it immediately. It's not worth the risk. The service interval is usually 80,000~100,000km or every 5 years, whichever comes first since rubber deteriorates. Change it to a Nismo or other strengthened belt for more peace of mind.

The US and the rest of the world measure fuel octane differently. The US uses AKI (RON divided by MON) whereas everyone else uses RON. 93 AKI is the same as 98 RON. You will be okay without a retune unless you have an aftermarket ECU. If you want to get the most performance, use something else (I use 95~96 AKI).

[Anfanee]

For the above regarding the Intake plenum...

Don't waste your money. Keep the stock one.

[gtr jet]

Same here, don't waste your money the plenum.

You could re bush most of the suspension with that money.

[Anfanee]

You could re do the front diff.

[GSX-R35]

I plan on getting the Nismo plenum in the future (in other words after more important stuff is taken care of and only as money allows) because a) the previous owner of my car had refinished the current plenum in blue and that's not the color scheme I plan to have for my engine bay and b) my car is a Nismo R32 so it seems only fitting to have as many Nismo parts as makes sense. In other words, it's totally not a priority but just something I want to do if I can lol.

Refreshing the suspension and possibly the engine/trans mounts seem like a higher priority right now.