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Hi all,

I have just had whiteline camber kits installed in my 33 gtst and the camber and toe adjusted. The reason i got them installed was because i was suffering serious uneven tyre wear (insides scrubbing out).

The new specs are below. Just wondering whether they are ok... I got it installed by pedders. They said they are not far from factory adjustment now - that said, they did not know what the factory specs were...

Do the specs below sound alright? I don't want any more uneven tyre wear.

Camber left front -0.54 degrees and

camber right front -1.06 degrees

Rear camber left -0.4 degrees

Rear camber irhgt -0.55 degress

Front toe left +1.0 mm

Front toe right +0.9mm

Rear toe left +1.0 mm

Rear toe right 1.2 mm

Any help would be heaps appreciated.

Thanks in advance fellas!

Jeremy

Hi Jeremy; suggestions follow, not in any particular order;

Tow out on the rear is not desirable, it's easily adjusted to zero, or even a little toe in on a high powered car

Tow out on the front is, likewise, not desirable on a road car, it's easily adjusted to zero.

Is there any front castor measurement? It is very important. :confused:

It would be better if the camber on the front was equal or even a little bit more on the left.

I am very particular about wheel alignment settings, it's a circuit race thing. We align the car every time it races. :Paranoid:

Hope that helps :D

Im wondering why the camber is double on the right compared to the left? It should be fairly equal, especially if you have adjustment on the front.

Neutral toe on the front is best for the street, and maybe 1mm toe in on the rear would be nice. Maybe take it back and get it done again (i wouldnt do it for the full price tho)

But yeah otherwise your alignment is still ok!

Thanks guys for the replies...

My other worry is about HICAS. It's got an aftermarket steering wheel and wrong boss kit. Therefore HICAS light is coming on (locking off the system).

Do you have any thoughts about whether this might mess with any of these settings???

Thanks again...

Thanks guys for the replies...

My other worry is about HICAS. It's got an aftermarket steering wheel and wrong boss kit. Therefore HICAS light is coming on (locking off the system).

 

Do you have any thoughts about whether this might mess with any of these settings???

Thanks again...

HICAS only works on rear toe angles, so nothing else is affected. :)

That's because nobody has a definitive answer. Some say just pull the blub, others claim that the system may become damaged as its not fully disabled. I tend to side with the later, but have no evidence to support that.

Why don't you grab a HICAS-enabled BOSS? Apparently you can now get them at Autobahn and the like (~$80 I am told).

Edit: Eek. This thread reminds me never to allow a pedders "specialist" to touch my car's suspension.

LW.

So do i need to get a hicas lock kit?

YES

Or can i just leave it as is

NO

remove the bulb and fuse?

Depending on the type of HICAS removal, you will have to do that anyway

No one seems to be able to give a me straight answer on this

I don't know about anyone else, but I have posted at least 10 times what has to be done, do a search and you will find them.

Hope that helps :D

Thanks for the help guys. I think i will just try and enable it. I have been to autobarn and they didn't even know what HICAS was. I might have to try another autobarn.

Does has anyone managed to purchase a HICAS compatible boss kit in victoria? It is a "hkb" one from my reading of the forums...

Jeremy I use the Whiteline alignment specs from their web page, since I don't have portable internet to hassle Sydneykid whenever I need to. I also use adjustable Caster rods and make the HICAS locks myself since the factory ones cost a rediculous price. The only extra thing is to remove the warning globe as they are pretty bright. It doesn't upset the computer and I've had no problems with the bars I've sent to other members. Fitting is easy but might best be done when getting another alignment which is necessary after fitting anyway. Will take about half an hour or less to fit when on a hoist.

  • 4 weeks later...
Thanks for the help guys. I think i will just try and enable it. I have been to autobarn and they didn't even know what HICAS was. I might have to try another autobarn.  

Does has anyone managed to purchase a HICAS compatible boss kit in victoria? It is a "hkb" one from my reading of the forums...

i actually got one of these HKB hicas compatible boss kits from the local autojoy shop, although my experience was far from joyfull, had to go back 3 times to get the right horn button ring, but anyways long story short i now have a hicas lock kit, its useless (the boss kit) and just made it worse, oh btw i have an sr 180 not a skyline, but im sure he had the same brand boss kits for skylines

crap, it made my hicas go hay-wire and kept progressively getting worse, although my hicas didnt seem healthy even before the install it was no where near as bad

id say to anyone who has hicas and considering getting a hicas boss kit... DONT ! save the 30 bucks and put it towards the $110 lock kit there selling on here, i have to say its the most enjoyable mod i have done, handling has improved vastly and i now have a new understanding of oversteer ! before the lock kit the car was understeering very badly, i just didnt realise how much so until i locked up the hicas, the difference was unbelievable

yeah definately was, but like i said my hicas was having problems before installation and i have a 180 not a skyline, dont know if the hicas works the same or not, but i found my hicas unit had no electrical connection to it ie meaning it was purely mechanically controlled, now i dont know if the KHB boss made it worse, or it was just that it was progressively getting worse from the original problem, but it was doing strange things with the boss kit on

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