Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lovin the resto. got my c-pillars not in yet...

i was thinking r34 pedals but not sure if its worth the effort and $ haha

good stuff. take your time with the install. dont rush it. keep the pedals original or get the nismos!

went for the textured one eh. i quite like the gloss black. a friend took his out and had it painted and cleared like 10 times in piano black. the deep gloss is magical..... but dust sucks.

i quite liked the double din look with the AC in the ashtray.

yeah, as i understand it the later models had the textured finish. its a 1994 model so i dont want to make it out to be a 89 model lol.

i didnt mind the look but its a bit odd not having the ashtray and cig lighter. the interior is one of those places where youre so close to it all the time its easy to see imperfactions. maybe im getting old but i love the original look so a hacked up console for a stereo just doesnt cut it for me anymore. once its all back together ill get some new pics up.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

righto, some new bits. small things amuse small minds i guess....

sold my double din tv for a new single din bluetooth/usb head unit. the double din i had was a much better deck but it didnt suit what i was doing. i hope the new owner is enjoying it.

while i was at it i bought another console (where the deck,gauges and a/c sit) as mine was cut up to fit the double din. Also bought a new stereo surround from RHDJapan.

and finally my favourite, freshly retrimmed steering wheel in black leather with matching handbrake boot. got these done at X-Trim in Smeaton Grange. Couldnt be happier with their work and i didnt pay $1000 for a new wheel. im just about done on the inside..im finally "happy" with the condition. yes i know it needs a vacuum!

22898840230_9fdb217d80_b.jpg20151122_134410 by Oliver K, on Flickr

22898838790_4af92e9982_b.jpg20151122_134550 by Oliver K, on Flickr

  • Like 4

Interior is beautiful and clean. Well done with the resto.

Thanks! Resto is a serious word, more like highlighting what it used to be.

I have a funny feeling as these get older and the market opens up in usa a tidy example would be worth a fair bit!

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Just purchased a old school HKS glove box insert. even though i have exactly zero use for this, i had to have hit. maybe if i feel like getting ripped off ill buy some old school gauges to fill it with. honestly though, what do i put in there?!?!?lol

23517602106_bd53592fc6_b.jpg20151205_185340 by Oliver K, on Flickr

  • Like 1

Just purchased a old school HKS glove box insert. even though i have exactly zero use for this, i had to have hit. maybe if i feel like getting ripped off ill buy some old school gauges to fill it with. honestly though, what do i put in there?!?!?lol

23517602106_bd53592fc6_b.jpg20151205_185340 by Oliver K, on Flickr

Condoms and dildos.
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

not the greatest photo but Street To Track did hook me up with some whiteline swaybars front and rear, including drop links.

havent upgraded swaybars on a car in a while. i now remember what a great mod it is.

the front went in easy enough, on the rear i had to drop the exhuast. The HKS muffler copped a nice polish while it was off too!

24596671456_ea05c2e3e1_b.jpg20160122_211551 by Oliver K, on Flickr

  • 5 months later...

been a while since i updated this, recently installed the new walbro 450lph pump.

upon taking the car apart i found a previous owner installed a walbro gss342 which was an interesting find!

anyway, old set up out. new pump in and rewired it from the pump to the lid. while there i change the fuel hoses inside the pump to e85 safe submersible hoses (for future requirements).

i had never upgraded the wiring in previous cars when changing the pump but i did this time around. followed the wiring diagrams off here which are quite helpful.Ended up using 8gauge cable for the power supply. to finish the install nicely i bought a new fuel pump plug and crimped in the new cables so it fits like factory. no original wires were cut - which  i like.

so new plug and wiring looks like this

28205172180_ab27e36280_b.jpg

so wired it up and car fired first go. not bad i thought. 

the new pump on stock wiring had 8.8v at idle. new wiring reads 13.3v on the multimeter.

Not sure if my butt dyno is out of whack but the car definitely feels a lot smoother through the rev range. wiring upgrade is a worth while mod.

  • Like 2

Nor really any pics but also threw on a set of pineapples and deleted the hicas completely.

Them hicas ball joints here a pain in the ass to remove but damn what a difference that made. 

Death to the pesky hicas!!!

5 hours ago, Stephen_rx7 said:

Good work man

I really like the look of your car

And im abit jelous of how clean the interior is.

Good work and keep the updates coming, I'm following closely 

thanks, interior is streets ahead of what it used to be. still need a bit or 2 but its pretty much done. i would consider buying a new dashboard from nissan but at the moment its decent enough and id rather spend the money elsewhere

3 hours ago, Sinista32 said:

I agree about blue joiners. I have them on mine at the moment but will changing to black, hopefully OEM if they exist.

i had the greddy joiners on there but didnt like the look. next time i have it apart ill cut down the excess on hose clamps and polish them up so they look a little tidier.

I bought a new dash for mine and it cost $1000.

Some numpty before I bought my GTR thought a Monster Tacho screwed to the dash with a shift light was a good idea.

Yours is in good cond for age.

I have tried and been successful on a door to remove air bubbles by creating a few small pin holes to let the air out, insert a small amount of contact glue using a syringe with ,2 needle, heating the area with a hairdryer and applying pressure till secure. Even just using a hairdryer to heat existing and stick down may work.

  • Like 1
11 minutes ago, Sinista32 said:

I bought a new dash for mine and it cost $1000.

Some numpty before I bought my GTR thought a Monster Tacho screwed to the dash with a shift light was a good idea.

Yours is in good cond for age.

I have tried and been successful on a door to remove air bubbles by creating a few small pin holes to let the air out, insert a small amount of contact glue using a syringe with ,2 needle, heating the area with a hairdryer and applying pressure till secure. Even just using a hairdryer to heat existing and stick down may work.

Yeah im sure the price will go up as they get rarer! May buy one and hide it lol.

 

I agree, mines in reasonable conditon. Might try your technique if it gets worse. As it stands the car is garaged and rarely sees outdoors so bugger all direct sunlighy hitting it.

A long time ago gauges were the big fad. While my dashboard doesnt have holes i replaced most plastic bits because gauges were mounted there. Much tidier now. Also once the steering wheel is amoralled it goes a much darker black and blends in really well.

  • Like 1
Just now, Sinista32 said:

Was it your add to replace the gage in the air vent? if so, good idea :thumbsup:

Difficult to see at the best of times when placed in the air vent. Good idea until you do it and realise not such a good idea.

Actually no. Old owner had the eboost on steering column and had a spare lower trim and vent with a hole cut out to fit. Ive put the original intact one aside and leaving the eboost in the vent for now.

 

Once i go haltech ill be getting the boost control kit, ill piss off the eboost and refit the stock trim and air vent.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

so i ended up fitting up a greddy thermo oil block. no relocation kit. aeroflow lines and fittings and a just jap 19 row oil cooler. i am always a bit worried about fittings leaking etc but the aeroflow stuff is great quality, not many pics of the install but here it is peaking through the bumper...

29571676182_f5fa93c276_b.jpg

while putting the car back together i fitted up the factory mesh, i really like the look

29647250656_cd67140d7b_b.jpg

while these jap brand exhuasts are great, they do hang quite low so my cat back was a bit battered. ended up replacing the stock cat with a 5" 100 cell cat and a true 3.5" exhuast. the back of the hks muffler is actually 3.5" so we mated it up the existing rear muffler. no mid muffler in site. Best Mufflers in Carlton did the work. top quality stuff.

29392018340_05b7e863a8_b.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...